a pedestrian approach: in some cases – for example in the Mar Lodge Estate in the Cairngorms – by digging up some of the estate roads and turning them back into footpaths.
My own view is that the wilderness character of remote areas needs to be strenuously protected from vehicular access and other sorts of development. There seems to be little restraint even today on the creation of new private roads in Scotland’s fragile wilderness areas; but as long as there is a road leading to the hill, used by estate workers and their clients in their heavy four-by-fours, I can see no valid reason why a bike should not be used on it too. Whatever one’s position on this, there is widespread agreement that mountain bikes should not be taken beyond these tracks onto footpaths.
Leaving Word
Walkers should always leave word with someone about their intended route and expected time of return. Youth hostels throughout the Highlands have specially printed route cards. These can be filled in and left with the hostel in case you have an accident. Police stations throughout the area have similar forms, and in hillwalking areas the police are usually very helpful to walkers. They are, after all, the first point of contact if a mountain rescue team has to be called out. In preparing this book I did all the Munros solo and frequently left details of where I was going at local police stations.
Bear in mind, though, that many of the smaller police stations in the Highlands – even in major climbing centres like Braemar – are not manned every day. Always speak to an officer just to be sure, otherwise the scribbled note you put through the letterbox describing your proposed route may not be picked up for several days. It may be better to contact one of the larger regional stations such as Fort William or Inverness. These are always manned and many of the staff will be knowledgeable about routes and well versed in rescue procedures should the need arise. It is of course essential that if you leave a route card with someone, you must return or ring them up to let them know you have got back safely. Mountain rescuers never mind going onto the hill to search for someone in trouble, but they do not take kindly to searching for someone who has gone home and forgotten, or simply not bothered, to tell anyone that they got back. The time and effort that go into such searches is often considerable.
In the event of an emergency, contact the local police or ring 999 and be prepared to say where the emergency has arisen, with a grid reference if at all possible. If you are carrying a mobile phone bear in mind that in large parts of the Highlands it is not possible to get a signal. Your best chance of getting a signal in many mountain areas may be high up on the summits, but even here it may not be possible.
When to Go
This guide has been written with the summer walker in mind. Summer conditions will usually prevail between May and September, although deep-lying snow can last into the summer in some high places, affecting the safety of otherwise ‘easy’ routes. ‘Winter’ storms are not uncommon in May or September – I have been caught out by snow in June! You should always obtain an up-to-date weather forecast from one of the many specialized forecast services before venturing into the Scottish hills. Avalanche warnings for specific areas are available on the internet at www.sais.gov.uk.
Beinn Narnain summit rocks from southeast approach (Route 68)
In winter conditions many routes may not be possible without strong all-round mountaineering experience. Navigation becomes more difficult, simple scrambles can become technical climbs, daylight is short and deteriorating weather can quickly lead to arctic conditions. Whilst a covering of snow can greatly add to the beauty and atmosphere of these mountains, remember that paths, cairns and other markers can quickly be obliterated; corniced ridges, snowdrifts and iced-up rock can make simple summer routes slow and fraught with danger. The Scottish hills should never be underestimated.
Enjoy them safely. Happy climbing!
THE MUNROS
NEVIS
To paraphrase Dickens: it is the best of hills, it is the worst of hills. The magnificent mountain architecture on the north side of Ben Nevis (or just ‘the Ben’ as it is affectionately known) offers one of the most awesome and impressive vistas in Britain – a huge and complex cathedral of rock, born of volcanic forces and massive intrusions of granite, relentless weathering and the scouring action of glaciation. It is a place that inspires fear and poetry and excitement. It is a magnet to everyone who loves mountains. But there is also the other Ben Nevis. A climber’s first experience of reaching the summit on a clear summer’s day is likely to come as a severe shock. There are often more people to be found here on a Saturday afternoon than in Sauchiehall Street, many of them totally ill-equipped and unprepared for a day on a mountain. The usual route from Glen Nevis is now like a motorway cut into the hill. The plateau itself is frequently covered with litter. Following a major clear-up in 2009 a line of cairns was constructed as markers to and from the trig point on a dog-leg following the safest line across the summit plateau (see text for bearings).
Despite all of this, the traverse described here is a wonderful route. Winter is definitely the best time to do it, when the tourist hordes are snuggled up at home in front of their fires, though in winter conditions it becomes a much more serious expedition which calls for all-round mountaineering skills.
ROUTE 1
Ben Nevis (1344m), Carn Mor Dearg (1220m)
| Start/Finish | footpath from Glen Nevis, which is stepped and engineered |
| distance | 15km |
| Ascent | 1700m |
| Difficulty | Demanding route with exposed section (the Carn Mor Dearg arête) that in summer involves some simple scrambling (up to grade 1). Accurate navigation from summit of Ben Nevis is essential in poor weather. |
| Time | 7hrs |
| Maps | OS sheet 41; Explorer map 392; Harvey’s Superwalker map Ben Nevis; Area Map 1 |
| Access | No stalking in this area; John Muir Trust, tel: 0131 554 0114 |
| Parking | Visitor centre car park or by YHA or at Ben Nevis Inn |
| Hostel | YHA Glen Nevis; Independent Glen Nevis |
| B&B/Hotel | Fort William |
| Camping | Glen Nevis |
| Pronunciation | Ben Nevis; Karn More Jerrack |
| Translation | Venomous Mountain; Big Red Cairn |
This tough, long route takes you on a spectacular circuit around the Nevis horseshoe to reach the highest point in Britain. It takes you through a wonderful variety of mountain terrain and includes some easy scrambling on the exposed Carn Mor Dearg arête. It is not the easiest way up Ben Nevis, however, and in poor weather can become a serious and demanding expedition.
Start from the visitor centre car park (12299 73088), from the YHA or from the Ben Nevis Inn (12591 72969). The paths from all three join not far up the hill. When the path begins to level out above Lochan Meall an
