This eventually winds around to reach the CIC (Charles Inglis Clark) hut beneath the north face, but after about 1km leave this path and drop quite steeply down heather slopes to the Allt a’ Mhuilinn. This can be crossed without difficulty at 15497 73792. This point can also be reached by a path from Torlundy, which has the advantage of shortening your encounter with the tourists. (If you prefer to approach the hill from this side, start from the North Face Car Park, which is signposted from the A82 in Torlundy. Don’t try to access the Allt a’ Mhuilinn via the golf course, as your presence will not be appreciated.)
From the river crossing, climb straight up the heathery hillside to Carn Beag Dearg. The slope soon becomes bouldery. Stay on the crest of the ridge all the way to Carn Dearg Meadhonach (17602 72672). There is a lower path that traverses the west side of these hills to emerge below Carn Mor Dearg, but the best views are to be had higher up – not only of the magnificent north face of Ben Nevis, but also of the dozens of gullies etched into the flanks of Aonach Mor across the valley to the east. From the summit of Carn Dearg Meadhonach drop down over the pink/grey granite boulders and then climb again to the summit of Carn Mor Dearg at 17753 72161 (4hrs 20mins from the YHA).
From here you drop down to the south with quite a substantial loss of height before the ridge eventually curves round to the southwest. Stay on or very close to the crest of the arête (which is little more than a line of piled-up blocks). It is narrow but not difficult or intimidating in summer weather. Soon the ascent begins, past an abseil post, which marks a possible line of descent into Coire Leis. Then comes a steep climb over large andesite boulders to the summit of Ben Nevis at 16687 71275. There is an intermittent path and a line of rusting posts which in very poor weather may be a useful guide to the top (5hrs 20mins).
Follow the tourist trail back to the valley. It is essential in poor visibility to find the right line of descent. There have been many fatalities where parties have either stumbled over the northeast face or mistaken one of the Glen Nevis gullies for the way off. If in any doubt walk 150m from the summit trig pillar on a grid bearing of 231°, then follow a second grid bearing of 282° for just over 1km to reach the top of the zigzags and safer ground. Don’t forget to add the necessary adjustment for magnetic variation to these grid bearings. In 2006 the variation was just under 3°W. Follow the Mountain Trail down through the zigzags to rejoin the outward route.
Ben Nevis from Carn Mor Dearg arête
THE AONACHS
Aonach Mor is a granite mountain, being part of the Outer Granite of Ben Nevis. Aonach Beag is mostly composed of Dalradian schists. There has been extensive geological folding hereabouts. Impressive crags on both the east and west sides of these hills, which have been eroded into a series of deep gullies and scree slopes, limit the lines of escape in bad weather and add to the ‘big mountain’ feel of these tops. The huge bulk of the Ben Nevis horseshoe fills the western horizon.
ROUTE 2
Aonach Mor (1221m), Aonach Beag (1234m)
| Start/Finish | footpath from the east end of the car park through Nevis gorge |
| distance | 15km |
| Ascent | 1240m |
| Difficulty | accurate navigation is essential, and in poor visibility can be notoriously difficult on these hills |
| Time | 7hrs |
| Maps | OS sheet 41; Explorer map 392; Harvey’s Superwalker map Ben Nevis; Area Map 1 |
| Access | Hillphones, tel: 01397 732362 |
| Parking | car park at the end of Glen Nevis |
| Hostel | YHA, Glen Nevis; Independent Glen Nevis |
| B&B/Hotel | Fort William |
| Camping | Glen Nevis |
| Pronunciation | Ernoch More; Ernoch Bake |
| Translation | Big Ridge; Little Ridge |
These two grand old men of the Scottish hills have been somewhat humbled by the ski-lift developments on the northern flanks of Aonach Mor, but approached from Glen Nevis they have lost none of their rugged appeal. There is an air of seriousness about them. Like many grand old men they need to be approached with care.
Starting from Glen Nevis, follow the popular walk through the gorge, past the beautiful Steall waterfall, to the little wooden bridge over the Allt Coire Giubhsachan. Turn north just before the bridge and climb steeply alongside the burn with its attractive waterfalls to reach a huge open corrie. One side of this great amphitheatre is hemmed in by the southeastern edge of the Ben Nevis/Carn Mor Dearg horseshoe, whilst on the other side looms the great bulk of Aonach Mor and the craggy southwest ridge of Aonach Beag. Follow the path to the head of the corrie, where it climbs to a small col between Carn Mor Dearg and Aonach Mor 18715 72078 (2hrs 40mins).
Head east up a steep spur to arrive on easier ground at the southern end of Aonach Mor’s broad plateau, then head north up the gentle incline of the plateau to Aonach Mor’s summit cairn at 19310 72942 (3hrs 50mins). There is little difficulty in finding the right line onto the plateau in ascent, but (for anyone using this as an escape route) finding the right descent line in poor visibility is not nearly so easy. An error in navigation could lead to dangerous ground if you try to descend either too far to the north or too far to the south. Start the descent at 19243 72210 and keep a close eye on the aspect of slope to make sure you aren’t being lured off the right line.
From the summit of Aonach Mor, head south along the plateau, then south-southeast to cross the col between the two Aonachs. A glimpse over the edge to the east here will often reveal patches of snow that have stayed in the shelter of these gullies right through the summer. There is some wonderful mountain scenery to admire on both sides. Climb the stony ridge to the summit of Aonach Beag, which despite its name is actually the bigger of the two hills. The cairn is some way back at 19713 71487 (4hrs 50mins).
Glen Nevis
Aonach Beag from Sgurr Choinnich Mor
The summit of Aonach Beag is dome shaped, and the whereabouts of the southwest ridge is not immediately clear from the top. Trusting your compass bearing, however, will soon bring the ridge into view. A path leads down, occasionally dodging round obstacles and always staying well to the left (east) of the main cliffs. It returns, steeply at times but without difficulty, past the old ruin to the little wooden bridge at Steall. From here it is plain sailing along the tourist path back to the car park.
THE GREY CORRIES
The surface rock of the Grey Corries is mainly a shattered grey-white quartzite, which gives the covering of scree from which the hills get their collective name. From a distance they seem to be shrouded in a pale grey cloth or a capping of snow. The extensive screes on
