Traditional Lead Climbing. Heidi Pesterfield

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      Traditional Lead Climbing: A Rock Climber’s Guide to Taking the Sharp End of the Rope

      1st EDITION September 2002

      2nd EDITION August 2007

      3rd printing 2011

      Copyright © 2002 and 2007 by Heidi Pesterfield

      Front cover photo copyright © 2007 by Simon Carter

      Back cover photo copyright © 2007 by Topher Donahue

      Frontispiece photo copyright © 2007 by Barry Blanchard

      Illustrations: Tami Knight

      Instructional photos: Lisa Dearing and Carl Davis

      Other interior photos, except where noted, by author

      Book design: Jaan Hitt

      Cover design: Larry B. Van Dyke

      Book production: Hayden Foell and Larry B. Van Dyke

      Book editor: Laura Shauger

      Technical editor of Chapter 8: Jeff Achey

      ISBN 978-0-89997-442-2

      Manufactured in the United States of America

Published by: Wilderness Press
Keen Communications
P.O. Box 43673
Birmingham, AL 35243
(800) 443-7227; FAX (205) 326-1012
www.wildernesspress.com

      Visit our website for a complete listing of our books and for ordering information.

      Distributed by Publishers Group West

Cover photos: Sean Isaac on the Grand Wall’s Split Pillar, the Stawamus Chief, British
Columbia (front); Meg Noffsinger in Boulder Canyon, Colorado (back)
Frontispiece: Mark Wilford in the St. Elias Range, Alaska

      All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.

      Safety Notice: Although Wilderness Press and the author have made every attempt to ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time, they are not responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur as a result of using this book. You are responsible for your own safety and health while climbing. The fact that a technique is described in this book does not mean it is safe for you. The information contained herein is no substitute for professional advice or training. Always check local conditions and know your own limitations. Climbing is inherently dangerous. The risks can be acknowledged and sometimes managed but never completely removed.

      Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

      Pesterfield, Heidi, 1962–

      Traditional lead climbing: a rock climber’s guide to taking the sharp end of the rope/Heidi Pesterfield.—2nd ed.

      p. cm.

      Includes bibliographical references.

      ISBN 978-0-89997-442-2 (pbk.)

      1. Rock climbing—Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Title.

      GV200.2.P47 2007

      796.522’3—dc22

      2007004958

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      In memory of Carol Jean Pesterfield

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      CONTENTS

      Acknowledgments

      Foreword

      Introduction

       How to Use this Book

      1—Rock Climbing 101

       Roles & Systems

      • Top-Roping

      • Leading

       Basic Ascent Methods

      • Free Climbing

      • Direct-Aid Climbing

       Alpine Climbing

       Free Climbing Styles

      • Traditional Free Climbing

      • Sport Climbing

       Growing Pains

      • Recent Changes

      • Resistance & Ethical Debates

      • Rock Climbing Today

      2—Exploring the Traditional Lead Experience

      

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