Traditional Lead Climbing. Heidi Pesterfield

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Traditional Lead Climbing - Heidi Pesterfield

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Ground Work

      • Rock Integrity

      • Stoppers & Nuts

      • Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)

      • Hexcentrics & Tri-Cams

      • Bolts

      • Natural Protection

      • Carabiner Use

      • Multidirectional Placements

       Anchors

      • The Pre-Equalized Anchor System

      • Anchors & Load Direction

      • Fixed Anchors

      • Other Anchoring Methods

       Navigation Aids

      • Guidebooks

      • Topos

      • Gathering Beta

       Following & Cleaning

      • At the Base

      • Climbing

      • At the Belay Anchor

      • Cleaning

       Rappel Overview

      • Gear Dependence

      • The Rope(s)

      • Avoiding Fatal Mistakes

      • Brake-Line Backup

      • Safety Check

      6—The Single-Pitch Trad Lead

       Leading on Top-Rope

      • Expert Feedback

      • The Setup

       At the Base

      • Racking Up

      • The Base Belay

      • Safety Check

       Communication

      • Verbal Commands

      • Backup Tactile Commands

      • Two-Way Radios

       Lead Protection & Rope Management

      • Runner Usage

      • Multidirectional Protection

      • Piece Selection

      • Placement Frequency

      • Stances

      • Double Placements

      • Blind Placements

      • Fixed Gear

      • Protecting Traverses

      • Rope Positioning & Clipping

      • Directionals

       Movement

      • Testing Holds

      • Rhythm & Flow

      • Energy Conservation

      • Down-Climbing

      • Hanging

      • Backing Off

       Falling

      • Hazards

      • The Physics of Falling

      • Fall Factor

      • Impact Force

      • Impact Impulse

       Establishing a Belay Anchor

      • Location

      • Fixed Belay Anchors

      7—The Multipitch Adventure

       Preparation

      • Route Choice

      • Partner Choice

      • Weather

      • The Pack

      • Food & Water

      • Gear

      • Cooperative Racking System

      • The Approach

       Moving Up

      • Route Finding

      • Trail Line Management

       The Belay

      • Anchors

      • Organization

      • Belaying the Second

      • The Changeover

      • Leading in Blocks

       Objective Hazards

      • Poor Weather

      • Lightning

      • Rockfall

      • High-Altitude Illnesses

       The Descent

      • Multipitch Rappelling

      • Class 3 & 4 Terrain

      • Scree & Talus

      • Snow & Ice

      • Epics

      • Retreat

       The Unplanned Bivouac

      8—Introduction to Self-Rescue

       Prevention & Responsibility

       First Aid

       Equipment

      

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