Chapter 3
Tools of the Trad
Mike Davis Collection
Traditional leading requires specific gear. Your previous climbing experience has most likely resulted in the acquisition of a harness, shoes, belay device, chalk bag, rope, and perhaps a modest rack for top-roping. If you’re coming into the trad realm by means of sport climbing, you may have a few more items. Although some crossover use is possible, climbing gear has become so highly specialized that you’re probably going to need an entirely new set of tools, specifically chosen with traditional lead climbing in mind.
GENERAL GEAR CONSIDERATIONS
The accumulation of trad lead climbing gear doesn’t usually happen in a day. This shopping spree is bound to last several years. Discovering exactly what to buy and why takes some effort. Cost is also a consideration. You may want to be absolutely sure you thoroughly dig trad climbing before you invest. If you’re gung ho, there’s really little you can do to ease the financial crunch unless you hook up with a friend who’s on a similar quest. Finally, once you get your gear, you need to do what you can to keep it by marking it in such a way that it is easily identified as yours.
Cost
Some relish the task of acquiring the necessary accoutrements for trad leading (especially self-styled gearheads or equipment nerds), but nearly everyone balks at the costly investment. If you gear-lead with a trustworthy friend, you can cut your initial costs in half. I’m not recommending sharing gear but rather each climber owning half of the gear to complete a rack. After the initial investment, you can both leisurely fill out your individual racks over time. This way you find out what products you prefer without emptying your pocketbook. But you both still need your own personal harness, shoes, chalk bag, rappel device, and nut tool.
Research
Thorough research prior to any large purchase is always a good idea. You may become overwhelmed and confused though by the abundance of gear on the market, the technicality of the products, and the massive amounts of information available, particularly on the Internet. You may or may not find valuable information by visiting climbing chat rooms, newsgroups, forums, and the like. It’s difficult to trust what you read in these online salons since it’s almost impossible to confirm the contributors’ experience level. Local rock guides are usually good sources, as are small, independent retail mountaineering shops where employees tend to be fairly knowledgeable. Product reviews in climbing magazines usually feature informed opinions, but of course you must remember that panning an item could potentially hurt the publication’s relationship with their valued advertisers. You should also be wary of online publications that rely on advertisers.
For detailed technical information on strength ratings and testing, refer to the manufacturers’ catalogs and Websites. Some companies provide more details than others. Unless you’re a mechanical engineer, metallurgist, or physicist, don’t expect to be able to understand typical research and development findings easily. Beware, also, of making choices based solely on strength comparisons or any other single quality. Strength ratings are relative and situational.
Before purchasing trad gear, consider the following criteria:
| 1. | Versatility. Can the item serve more than one purpose? (For example, some belay devices can double as rappel devices, and you can use some carabiners in applications from racking gear and leading to self-rescue). |
| 2. | Market longevity. How long has the item been around? When it comes to manufacturing climbing gear, wisdom comes with age. Purchase brands and products with longevity on the market. These items have spent a lot of time in research and development labs and in the hands of product testers. If a product has been around awhile, it has usually gone through several stages of refinement. |
| 3. | Home-Crag Friendliness. Ultimately, the gear you choose must suit the type of rock on which you’ll most frequently be leading. What works best in the narrow, nonuniform cracks in Eldorado Canyon is a disaster in Indian Creek’s splitter, parallel cracks. Talk to a trusted local. |
| 4. | Crossover Use. Will your partners recognize and feel comfortable using the gear you purchase for your rack? This factor is another good reason to consider market longevity—products that have been around longer are likely widely used and therefore generally familiar to many leaders. |
Before using your gear, read the directions carefully and thoroughly. Learn how to properly care for and store your items and when to recognize that retirement is in order. Sometimes gear may be damaged internally but have few external signs of wear and tear. World-class climber Todd Skinner might still be alive if his well-worn harness had been put out to pasture before it broke midrappel in a tragic accident in Yosemite Valley in 2006. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) recommends replacing nylon items every five years and hardware every 10, regardless of use. When in doubt, retire it.
Identification
To identify your gear, mark hardware and runners with colored electrical tape. Some climbers prefer to etch their initials into hardware—this lasts forever but takes a significant time commitment. Sort gear after every climb to ensure it stays in your possession. I am now a fanatic about sorting, after years of slow but steady gear loss. No one intentionally “adopts” your gear, it just happens when so much is community property.
BASIC EQUIPMENT
Purchasing all this gear won’t be as traumatic if you approach it piecemeal. Begin by fulfilling the basic trad needs: You’ll want a comfortable, hearty harness; a good pair of all-around trad shoes that work well on slabs and in cracks; a lightweight belay device that doubles as a rappel device; and a big locking carabiner to attach the device to your harness. You’ll also need to purchase a rope. Finally, a nut tool, wide-mouthed chalkbag, and gear sling complete your basic trad ensemble.
Shoes
Find a knowledgeable salesperson with traditional climbing experience to help you choose a pair of shoes for trad routes. Most salespeople offering to help with climbing boots are unqualified to do so, especially in larger chain stores. When making such a pricey investment, you want to walk out with the right pair. If you can’t find an informed sales clerk, bring along someone with trad savvy, or at least first obtain a few style and brand recommendations from someone you trust. Another option might be to borrow or rent a pair of shoes to see how they feel on real rock. This is an optimal solution, though it limits size and brand options.
Since traditional cragging involves varied terrain, an all-round model is often a good starter shoe. Look for a moderately stiff pair you think you’ll be able to tolerate wearing all day. Most of these are going to have a substantial midsole to support the foot as your muscles develop. You’ll probably want to avoid choosing a pair that has an extremely cambered design (which resembles the arched spine of an angry cat), mainly because it lacks the support and comfort of good beginner trad climbing shoes. Modeled after a foot with down-curled toes, extremely cambered boots are used for high performance sport climbing.
A high-top boot that protects your ankles in cracks is a wise choice, especially if you’ll be climbing a lot of cracks that are hand-size and larger. Unfortunately, only a few manufacturers still make high tops. Slippers are ideal for bouldering and on short, thin crack routes, but I don’t recommend them as your primary trad-climbing shoe. They’re not as versatile, will really hurt your feet in wider cracks and on long routes, and will wear much faster since they are usually made with significantly less rubber than lace-ups.
Consider
