as simple as the hip belay and sticky rubber have all ushered in tremendous changes. But no development has resulted in changes more momentous than that of the drill and expansion bolt. Several decades after their introduction, the drill and expansion bolt gave rise to the two distinctive free climbing styles dominant at crags today—traditional free climbing and sport climbing.
Existing under the free climbing umbrella, traditional free and sport climbing employ similar principles of ascent and roles but vastly different techniques, tools, skills, and first-ascent methods. (See illustrations 1 and 2). Prior to the widespread development of sport climbing in the 1980s, “traditional” rock climbing remained virtually undefined. As sport climbing’s popularity increased worldwide, descriptive labels became necessary to distinguish the styles. Labels like “adventure climbing,” “classic climbing,” and “gear-leading” were frequently used to describe trad ascents, while “modern free climbing” was used occasionally to describe sport climbing. Today the terms “traditional” and “sport” are well anchored in climbing vernacular.
Traditional Free Climbing
In his June 1999 article in Climbing No. 186, writer Jeff Achey describes the concept of traditional climbing with disarming frankness: “Bolts and hardware don’t grow naturally on cliffs. One of the defining characteristics of trad climbing is that you climb raw rock, and protect your own ass.”1 Traditional free climbing involves ascending a route from the ground-up, spontaneously placing pieces of removable protection from the rack wherever you deem necessary or as the rock yields. A traditional rack varies depending on the route and the climbing area. It is generally composed of an assortment of standard clean-climbing hardware of varying sizes and brands in combination with runners (a.k.a. slings), quickdraws, and carabiners. The trad climbing rack is discussed at length in Chapter 3.
Though numerous elements are involved in a masterful trad lead, placing secure and solid protection while maintaining mental and physical composure tops the list. Ernest Hemingway’s description of courage as “grace under pressure” best portrays the successful trad leader, who balances the physical demands of climbing with the mental tasks of deciding where and how to place gear. The complexity of placing solid protection involves several factors: knowing when to stop and place a piece; knowing how to rest efficiently; deciding how to use what’s available on the rock and from your rack creatively; understanding the mechanics of each piece of protection; and evaluating gear size, fit, and rock quality. All these factors play a role in the integrity of each lead.
Traditional routes commonly, but not always, follow crack systems. Climbers on traditional routes frequently encounter faces protected by runnered trees, tied-off natural rock protrusions like horns and knobs (chickenheads) and/or clipped bolts placed on lead (hence the term “ground up”). Most trad climbs involve some of each, depending on the morphology of the rock.
Trad climbs vary in length and are measured in terms of pitches. A pitch is the distance between belay stances (anchors) and generally does not exceed the length of the rope. Trad routes can be a single pitch, or a combination of several. Except when a yo-yo system is established on certain single-pitch routes, a partner is required to follow a trad lead to clean protection. If the route continues for more than one pitch, partners will generally swap gear and roles at the top of each. The second now becomes the leader, and the leader becomes the follower. This is the multipitch concept, discussed at length in Chapter 6.
Trad climbs are determined by the natural existing features of the rock; therefore, some routes may involve climbing sections that are either difficult or impossible to protect. Such sections are called runouts and may present themselves at any time between belay anchors. For instance, the security of a hand-sized crack may peter out into an insidious difficult-to-protect groove. Or the pimply features on a knobby face can diminish gradually, taking on the peaches-and-cream complexion of a smooth wall that will not accept protection. Although many traditional routes offer ample opportunity for protection, most trad leaders accept the fact that runouts are often part of the game. They must always be prepared to climb carefully through sections where protection is sparse and potential falls are long and possibly of great consequence.
Though belay anchors on traditional routes are sometimes pre-established with fixed gear such as bolts and pitons, most routes require the establishment of removable protection. The traditional leader is constantly in gear-conservation mode to leave enough equipment to adequately protect the rest of the climb and create a safe belay anchor. The anchor (a.k.a. the belay) is located at the end of each pitch.
Traditional free and sport climbing employ similar principles of ascent and roles but vastly different techniques, tools, and skills.
Communication can be difficult on traditional routes. As the leader, you often climb out of your belayer’s sight and range of hearing. Your belayer’s visual clue to your progress is sometimes limited to the inch-by-inch movement of the rope slithering up and across the rock face, disappearing around a corner or over a bulge.
Sport Climbing
Sport climbs occur on generously bolted routes that are usually established by rap-bolting, the permanent placement of bolts on walls accessed from above via rappeling. Yet some sport routes are established “on lead,” usually with the assistance of direct-aid. Sport climbs are almost always protected exclusively by bolts although some might require the placement of a piece of gear or two. Most involve steep-face climbing on vertical-to-overhanging surfaces.
The abundance of closely placed bolts on sport routes eliminates much of the danger that climbers face in traditional routes, where placing protection is critical, complex, and time-consuming. Because gear responsibilities are fewer when leading a sport route, climbers can focus on continuity and difficulty; they can push their physical and mental limits and risk relatively safe, short falls, usually with minimal consequences.
A standard sport rack typically consists of several quickdraws assembled with specialized lightweight carabiners for clipping bolts and anchors. The equipment theme in sport climbing is “go light.”
Most sport routes require less than half the length of a standard rope, providing leaders the option of a relatively easy retreat, by having the belayer lower them from any bolt. Since they use less than half the rope length, they can, after they reach the top, descend via lowering, establishing a yo-yo top-rope to protect subsequent climbers. Typically, the sport belayer is situated directly below the leader and is close enough for relaxed casual communication.
Sport climbs are often rehearsed at length. The leader “works” a route that he or she was previously unable to climb without falling or hanging on the rope. Working a route entails requesting frequent tension from your belayer so you can rest (hang) between difficult sections. Your eventual goal is to climb the route in one push from bottom to top with no falls or hangs. Known as the red-point, this mastery can take hours, days, or even months to achieve. Other styles of working routes, some of which are employed on traditional, as well as on sport, routes are discussed in Appendix 2.
Although the dangerous elements of traditional free climbing dwarf those of sport climbing, leading sport routes can still be hazardous. Improperly back-clipping bolts can result in the disconnection of the rope from carabiners on quickdraws, and erroneous
