and abandoned trackways, or rotting piers backed by a handful of cottages are now almost the only visible evidence of a once thriving industry.
The Eastern Cleddau below Minwear Wood (Walk 26)
Above the tidal limit, Pembrokeshire’s rivers run fast and clear, often through narrow gorges where man’s only exploitation has been to manage the centuries-old woodland cloaking the steep slopes. With a wealth of native species such as birch, ash, holly, hazel and oak, their continuity has been preserved by coppicing, selective felling and natural regeneration. Relatively undisturbed by human activity and providing shelter and food, these are havens for all manner of wildlife. Blackbird, wren, chiffchaff, nuthatch, chaffinch, goldfinch, blue and great tits, and green and spotted woodpeckers are just some of the birds you might see. Squirrels and small rodents scurry about and foxes and badgers are fairly common, although you need to be there at dusk to catch sight of Mr Brock.
Ancient woodland is to be found elsewhere too, perhaps most notably in the north at Pentre Ifan and Ty Canol, areas noted for the ferns and lichens that grow in abundance among the hillside boulders and upon the trunks of the trees. Although rivers and streams are plentiful, there are no significant natural lakes in the county. However, since its opening in 1972, the Llys-y-frân Reservoir has established itself as a splendid substitute, attracting an ever growing diversity of wildlife as well as providing a fine recreational facility while also meeting the water supply needs of the area.
One of the great delights in wandering through Pembrokeshire is to savour its quiet, narrow lanes. The herbal splendour found along the cliff paths and in the woods is repeated here and the banks and hedges are packed with interest throughout the year. Bramble, gorse, heather, hazel, blackthorn and honeysuckle abound, and there is an almost continuous succession of flowers sprouting from the crevices and beneath the bushes. Violet, primrose, lesser celandine, bluebell, campion, wood anemone, herb robert, foxglove, tormentil, stitchwort and the ever-present parsleys; the list is almost endless.
Gorse covers the hillside above Pwllgwaelod (Walk 17)
Things to take along
Whether following the coast, wandering the hills or exploring the valleys and woods, the walking everywhere is superb and will invariably reveal something unexpected along the way. Unless you really are an expert it is a good idea to take along pocket flower and bird field guides, and a small pair of binoculars will prove invaluable, especially along the coast.
Getting there
Pembrokeshire is easily accessible by road and, in some cases, rail, with national services running to Tenby, Pembroke Dock, Milford Haven, Haverfordwest, Fishguard and Cardigan. The nearest airports serving the region are Cardiff, Birmingham and Liverpool, where you can hire a car. Accommodation (whether it be camping, bed & breakfast or hotels), restaurants, cafés and pubs throughout the region are generally welcoming and of a high standard, providing good value for money.
Getting around
Pembrokeshire’s roads are generally quiet and parking is rarely a problem, but where there is no formal car park, please ensure your vehicle is not causing an obstruction. All the main access points along the coast are served by excellent bus services, with other routes extending into the Preseli Hills and the Gwaun Valley. The walks described in this collection are all circular, but local transport offers the possibility of turning some of them into shorter one-way routes. Please use the buses where you can, as this will help sustain the case for further improvements and keep the lanes enjoyable for walkers, cyclists and horse riders. Timetables and information are available at local Tourist Information Centres and from the Greenways website (see the information section in Appendix B), but note that some routes operate a reduced service from October until the end of April.
Terrrain and weather
Nowhere is the walking overly demanding, but be aware that, particularly along some sections of the coast, paths can make successive steep climbs and descents, which can be tiring if you are unused to strenuous routes. The Pembrokeshire climate is generally mild, and even the middle of winter can produce delightful days when the shining sun warms the air. But snow does lie from time to time on the Preseli Hills, and mist and cloud can cause navigational difficulties there for the inexperienced. Wind and rain may occur at any time but, providing you are equipped with suitable weatherproof clothing, need not spoil your enjoyment. However, take care, especially along the cliffs, which are sometimes slippery underfoot and where unexpected gusts can force you off balance. Walking boots offer the best protection for your ankles on rough ground, and gaiters help to keep your feet dry. As with all country walking, paths may be muddy during and after wet weather, and lush summer vegetation often makes trousers more appropriate than shorts.
Tides
On some of the walks you need to be aware of how the tide will run during the course of the day. Beaches may have coves that are cut off as the tide rises, and if you venture down you need to keep an eye open as the water comes in. However, three walks exploring the upper reaches of the Daugleddau are affected too: from Cresswell Quay, Landshipping Quay and Little Milford Wood. Details of the sections affected are given within the appropriate chapters, and you can get information on tide times from local Tourist Information Centres or by consulting the national park’s free newspaper Coast to Coast.
A changing countryside
Inevitably, nothing is static; the line of a footpath may change, forest areas are felled and replanted, signs may alter and, even in the countryside, there can be development. Over the years rangers from both Pembrokeshire’s national park and County Council have performed sterling work in improving the network of paths and tracks; replacing stiles with gates, installing bridges, re-opening lost routes and tackling the never-ending cycle of vegetation control. However, should you encounter a problem, please help by reporting it to the relevant organisation. You will find contact details in Appendix B.
Using this guide
This collection of walks includes something for everyone, from novices to experienced ramblers. None of the walks demand technical skill and, in good weather, pose few navigational problems. However, when venturing onto the higher ground of the Preseli Hills, competence in the use of map and compass is important, particularly in poor weather. Pembrokeshire’s network of public footpaths and tracks is extensive and signposts and waymarks are generally well positioned to confirm the route.
However, on farm and moorland away from the coast, the line of the path on the ground might not always be obvious. It is therefore recommended that, in addition to the route description and map extracts within the book (taken from the Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger series), you also consult the relevant Ordnance Survey Explorer Outdoor Leisure map. These are produced at a scale of 1:25,000, and show the terrain in greater detail, including field boundaries.
Each walk is headed with key facts that provide essential information about the walk, including the distance and approximate time as well as details of useful facilities such as refreshments, toilets and parking. More general information about the area can be found in Appendix B.
WALKS ALONG THE COAST
Cliff erosion leaves spectacular stacks (Walk 4)
WALK 1
Amroth and Pleasant Valley
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Amroth (SN 162
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