The Bosherston Lily Ponds are at their best in early summer when the flowers are in full bloom, and are a favourite destination for many visitors to this part of Pembrokeshire. Several paths meander through the old Stackpole estate and offer a choice of easy rambles taking in the splendid woodland of the sheltered valleys, spectacular clifftop scenery and some marvellous beaches as well as the lakes themselves. This and the following walk explore some of the best corners and can either be undertaken individually or combined to make a longer day out.
Looking up the western arm of the lakes
Begin from the National Trust car park below Bosherston's church, following a path beyond the toilets down into woodland. Keep ahead past a junction and carry on a little further to reach a causeway across the upper end of the western arm of the Lily Ponds. The ongoing path follows the opposite bank, and where the track shortly forks, either way will do (the one on the right crests a rocky prominence from which there is a splendid view across the foot of the three lakes). The ways combine and lead to a second causeway, this crossing the middle arm. Go right on the far side, signed towards Broad Haven, the path winding around to a bridge across the longer, eastern arm. The walk described from Stackpole – Walk 4 – brings you to this point from across the bridge. If you want to combine the two, turn left and follow the eastern arm up, referring to the instructions given.
The Lily Ponds comprise a trio of narrow lagoon-like inlets weaving their watery fingers inland amidst gently rolling countryside. They are man-made, and were created in the late 18th century by damming the valley behind the beach at Broad Haven to provide a decorative feature for the grand, but now demolished, house of Stackpole Court. Flowering in June, the water lilies thrive on the lime-rich waters, which support an abundance of interesting wildlife. Among the birds commonly seen are kingfishers and herons, and the swans that live here often create a splendid show as they take off or land on the water. Equally eye-catching are the iridescent dashes of dragonflies and damselflies. If you walk quietly you might spot large pike lurking in the shady waters by the bank or, if you are very lucky, even see otters splashing about as they hunt for fish.
The Lily Ponds
To return to Bosherston, cross the bridge and keep right with the waterside path towards Broad Haven. At a junction behind the beach by the foot of the Lily Ponds, turn right over a small stone bridge and continue up beside the western lake. Later, over a bridge spanning a side creek, keep right, shortly passing an abandoned brick building, an old pump house that provided water for the army camp. At a junction just beyond, go left back up to the car park.
Above the car park and standing on the site of an even earlier building is the charming Norman church of St Michael and All Angels. Inside, under the northern transept window lies a carved tomb, thought to be the Dowager Duchess of Buckingham, while on the south side is that of a 14th-century crusader knight. The font is perhaps as old as the church, but many other ancient features were lost during restoration work in the middle of the 19th century.
WALK 4
Stackpole and the Lily Ponds
| Start/finish | Stackpole Quay (SR 991 958) |
| Distance | 5 miles (8km) |
| Total Ascent | 760ft (230m) |
| Time | 2¼hr |
| Terrain | Coastal, woodland and field paths |
| Maps | Explorer OL36 South Pembrokeshire |
| Refreshments | The Boat House Tearoom at Stackpole Quay (NT) |
| Toilets | Beside tearoom at Stackpole Quay |
| Public transport | Seasonal bus service to Stackpole Quay |
| Parking | National Trust car park above Stackpole Quay (charge) |
The second of the two walks around the Stackpole estate, this explores the particularly outstanding stretch of limestone cliffs between the old harbour at Stackpole Quay and Broad Haven beach. It then follows the eastern reach of the ornamental ponds before crossing the fields behind the headland to complete the circuit.
From the car park entrance, walk down behind the tearoom and bear right to find a stepped path through a break in the wall signed to Barafundle. It climbs onto the headland above Stackpole Quay, from where there is a splendid view east to Caldy Island.
THE STACKPOLE ESTATE
That the Vikings visited the area is suggested by its name, derived from the Norse words stac and pollr, describing an inlet beside an isolated rock, which lies provocatively off the beach. The history of settlement, however, begins in the 13th century when Elidur de Stackpole built a castle here. By the 17th century the estate was in the hands of the Lort family, passing by marriage to the Campbells of Cawdor from Scotland. It was they who built Stackpole Court in 1735, which overlooked the eastern valley for almost 200 years. However, by 1963 the great house had become uninhabitable and was pulled down by the fifth Earl of Cawdor, leaving only the stables standing. He bequeathed a large part of the estate to the National Trust on his death in 1970. The sturdy harbour was built at the end of the 18th century and used to land coal for the estate as well as providing a berth for Lord Cawdor’s pleasure yacht, the Speedwich.
Stackpole Quay
An obvious path leads away across a gently undulating limestone plateau, but with all the interest lying in the cliffs below, you will be drawn to investigate every indentation and protrusion of the coast. Be very careful along this stretch of coast, particularly if it is windy or wet, or there are young children in the party, for the cliffs are precipitous. Remember also that there is no safe pedestrian access to the shore other than at Barafundle and Broad Haven beaches.
The clifftop scenery is quite breathtaking, with spectacular blowholes, fissures and sea caves piercing the cliffs that drop 100ft (30m) sheer to the sea. The coastal walk must have been a particular favourite of the Lort family, for their name is preserved in some of its outstanding features: Lorts Cave and Griffith
