An arched stone gateway above Barafundle Bay marks the top of a staircase down to the lovely beach, a legacy of the Cawdors’ presence. Walk across the sand and climb away at the far side through a copse of sycamore trees. Follow the coast out to Stackpole Head, doubling back past Mowingword and behind the spectacular bay beyond, which is littered with huge boulders and stacks displaying every stage of disintegration. The cliffs here attract rock climbers, who scramble up and down with deceptive ease, the crashing waves below giving the challenging climbs an added exhilaration. The path winds on overlooking more impressive coves, and passing the massive depression of a blowhole.
Eventually rounding Saddle Point, the way sweeps in above Broad Haven beach and leaves the close-cropped swathe of the headland through a kissing gate. Turn right towards scrubby sandhills, climbing parallel to a low stone wall running on the left that has become partly engulfed by the shifting sand. Over the crest, bear left and drop through the dunes to reach a path at the bottom. To extend the walk to Bosherston, go left towards Broad Haven beach, but then turn right over a small stone bridge and continue with the instructions given in Walk 3.
The rugged beach below Mowingword
For Stackpole, turn right and follow the lake up to a bridge across the foot of the eastern arm. Cross and follow the lakeside to the right, shortly arriving at Eight Arch Bridge. On the far bank, a broad farm track heads away across the fields over a low hill. Ignore crossing tracks and you will eventually return to the car park at Stackpole Quay.
WALK 5
The Angle Peninsula
| Start/finish | Freshwater West (SM 884 004) |
| Distance | 9¾ miles (15.7km) |
| Total Ascent | 1625ft (495m) |
| Time | 5hr |
| Terrain | Quiet lanes and coastal path; the return is rugged and steeply undulating |
| Maps | Explorer OL36 South Pembrokeshire |
| Refreshments | The Old Point House at Angle and cafés at Chapel Bay Fort and West Angle |
| Toilets | At West Angle Bay |
| Public transport | Seasonal bus service to Freshwater West and Angle |
| Parking | Car park above northern end of Freshwater beach |
A walk of stark contrast, setting the sheltered inland-facing coast of Milford Haven against the battered high cliffs that present a shoulder to the full force of the Atlantic weather. The first half of this walk is relatively undemanding and follows the coast around the shallow inlet of Angle Bay and on through woodland fringe to Angle Point. The return, however, is fairly strenuous, the cliff path being forced abruptly up and down to negotiate deep clefts where water run-offs fall to the sea. That said, it is a splendid ramble, and on a fine day there are spectacular views all along the cliffs.
A waymarked path leaves the back of the car park across an undulating sea of grassy sandhills. Just before reaching the beach, swing right, the path shortly rising among gorse and bracken above the sandstone cliffs closing the northern end of the long strand of Freshwater West. Over a rise, the way drops steeply into a small valley, where you should abandon the Coast Path over a stile on the right. Towards the top of the gully mount another stile on the left, and walk directly across the fields to reach a lane.
The tide appears lethargic in Angle Bay, the water imperceptibly creeping in and out under its heavenly influence. At low water extensive mudflats are exposed, rich in worms and burrowing shellfish, and such an abundance of food attracts a wide assortment of birdlife, particularly in winter. Common are oystercatchers, curlews, sandpipers and redshanks, but you will also see divers, cormorants and, of course, the ubiquitous duck.
Go left, and then at a junction go right, down a narrow, leafy lane, which curves in front of wrought-iron gates to end on the shore. A track to the left runs behind Angle Bay, eventually joining a road that leads ahead into the village. Just before the church, turn right onto a pot-holed lane, cross a stream and go right again, continuing around the bay to the Old Point House (public house). Keep ahead, following the edge of successive fields to Angle Point, where a narrow, stepped path hidden in the hedge drops to a stony beach below.
The old lifeboat station
The battered walls remain from the Haven’s first lifeboat station. Established in 1868, it continued in service until 1927, when another boathouse was built a little further along the coast. That too has been superseded by the present station, which was constructed beside it and opened in 1992.
Back in the field, stride on around the point overlooking the Milford Haven waterway, the way becoming a hedged path and shortly meeting a crossing track (which leads to the current lifeboat station). Cross and continue with the path above the coast, again at the perimeter of successive fields.
Across the Milford Haven waterway, jetties march out on stilts to the deepwater channel, where massive tankers once docked to discharge cargoes of crude oil. During the boom years of the 1960s and 1970s, five separate refineries and an oil-fired power station were built around the shore. More recently, with the prospect of North Sea gas reserves running out, the Haven has been redeveloped to service tankers bringing super-chilled liquefied natural gas from Qatar. It is stored in massive tanks, each large enough to hold the Royal Albert Hall and, after warming, is fed by underground pipeline across Wales to Gloucester, where it enters the national grid. The gas also fuels a new generation power station overlooking the Pembroke River, putting the area to the forefront in meeting Britain’s energy needs.
There is soon a view ahead to the Dale peninsula before the path dips into the upper edge of a sycamore wood that falls to the sea below. Hidden in the trees at the far end are gun trenches, part of the outlying fortifications of Chapel Bay Fort, which lies just ahead. Emerging at the far side, join a field track to the right and walk past a couple of cottages to a junction by the entrance to Chapel Bay Fort. Now restored and with a café, Chapel Bay Fort is open from Friday to Sunday and Bank Holiday Mondays during the summer.
Milford Haven was one of the most heavily defended places in the country during the period of Napoleon III’s (nephew of Bonaparte) expansionist ambitions. Garrisoned forts and artillery batteries covered the entrance to the waterway and lined both shores as far as Pembroke Dock (where the naval dockyards were situated) and there was even a fort built upon Stack Rock, which lies plumb in the middle of the channel. This walk passes three of the installations: Chapel Bay Fort (now extensively restored and housing a fine museum of military weaponry), Thorn Island just off the point ahead, and East Block House a little further round, where the massive gun emplacements are largely overgrown with bramble.
Carry on through the gate in front, winding past Chapel Bay Fort and on towards the point, off which lies Thorn Island. Finally decommissioned after World War II, Thorn Island’s fort was converted into a hotel, but has subsequently lain empty for many years. Despite passing through several owners since, its future remains unclear. Rounding the point, the way loses height along craggy cliffs, below which impressive rock folding and erosion is exposed by the tide. Carry on
