pink and white around February, and were first planted on a large scale in 1765.
Carob trees bear distinctive seed pods
Woody shrubs include various species of broom, including some that bristle with thorns, blazing with yellow flowers in March and April. The resin-scented lentisk grows almost anywhere, and aromatic rosemary is also common. Heather tends to form feathery clumps and some species are like small trees.
Plants such as asphodels thrive in rocky, barren places, but many other flowering plants manage to eke out an existence. There are Mallorcan varieties of St John’s Wort, for example, and several species of cistus. Two species of spiny plants, despite being quite separate, are both referred to as coixinets de monja or ‘nuns’ sewing cushions’. Another spiny plant is smilax, known locally as aritja, giving rise to the place-name aritges. Shrubby euphorbias, or spurges, contain a milky, latex sap, and some bushy species are referred to as tree spurges. Delightful little flowers include tiny crocuses and cyclamens, sometimes appearing to grow from bare rock but actually rooted in tiny crevices.
Asphodels flourish on many sunny and stony slopes
A rock rose looks like crumpled tissue paper
Most open mountainsides, as well as sunny spots inside woods and forests, may be covered with the tall pampas-like grass, Ampelodesmus mauritanica, which is best referred to by its common name of càrritx. It looks innocuous from a distance, but can prove troublesome on closer acquaintance. Avoid stepping on its long fronds with one foot as they can form a loop, tripping walkers as they bring their next foot forward. Get into the habit of high-stepping past càrritx to avoid tripping.
Animals
Whatever large mammals once roamed Mallorca, only feral goats remain, along with domesticated sheep, a few cattle and fewer pigs. Bells draw attention to farm stock foraging on the mountainsides. Signs reading ‘Big Game Hunting’ might seem alarming, but they refer to the hunting of feral goats, which is permitted on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays from October to February. Hunters are unlikely to shoot across popular paths, but walkers should be aware of their presence. In the unlikely event that you find yourself close to a shooting party, yell loudly in any language!
Goats are seen in the mountains and hunted as ‘big game’
Most of the mammals native to the island are small, including pine martens, weasels, hedgehogs, bats, hares, rabbits and rodents, and many of them are hunted by birds of prey. South American coatis are causing concern since being released into the wild, as they prey on native animals. Snakes are only rarely spotted and should cause no concern to walkers. Geckos are unlikely to be seen, except by those keeping a keen watch. Frogs and toads may be common in well-watered areas, and they are notable near the large reservoirs at Cúber and Gorg Blau (Walks 31–35). Snails can be easy to spot because of their distinctive shells. Insect life includes abundant butterflies in spring and summer, and even more species of moths. In the hot summer months cicadas and grasshoppers chirp and whir in the vegetation.
A notable ‘pest’ insect is the pine processionary moth. The female lays up to 200 eggs, which hatch into voracious caterpillars that can cause great damage to trees. They live in dense, spherical webs and move to new foraging areas by marching nose-to-tail, thus giving rise to their name. Avoid handling them, as they are covered in hairs that can irritate the skin. Other ‘pest’ insects include the red palm weevil, which destroys palms.
Birdwatching
Serious birdwatchers should get in touch with the local experts, the Grup Ornitològic Balear (GOB), www.gobmallorca.com. GOB has long been involved in renovating an old building as a refugi (refuge) at La Trapa, above Sant Elm (Walk 3). Unfortunately, construction has stalled and its future is in doubt. Other Mallorcans have a passion for hunting birds, especially thrushes, which cause a lot of damage to olive groves. Shooting and netting take place from the end of August to the end of January, but this should not inconvenience walkers as it usually occurs in the evening and at dawn. Most species of birds are protected.
A juvenile gull displays typical mottled plumage
The black vulture is unmistakeable when seen above remote mountains. Numbers dropped alarmingly in the last century and a programme was set up to assist their recovery. This involves minimising disturbance, leaving carrion out for them, setting up breeding programmes and introducing black vultures from other areas. The breeding season is exceptionally long, extending from January through to July. Black vultures are usually seen over the mountains between Sóller and Pollença.
Raptors include red kites, peregrines, kestrels and booted eagles. Harriers are occasional visitors, while ospreys may be seen at the large reservoirs at Cúber and Gorg Blau. Eleonora’s falcon breeds along the northern coastal cliffs.
Hoopoes are eagerly spotted in many places, while large flocks of crag martins are notable in the mountains in winter. Alpine accentors also frequent the highest mountains in winter. The blue rock thrush keeps itself out of sight, while swifts breed safely on cliffs. During the winter there is a big influx of birds from northern Europe, including starlings, thrushes, finches, waders and wildfowl. Woodlands support blackcaps, black redstarts, crossbills and goldfinches. Look out for white wagtail, meadow pipits, serins and greenfinches. Linnets and great tits are common and robins and chaffinches are abundant. Firecrests are found fairly high in the mountains.
Travel to Mallorca
Passing beneath an overhang on the way to es Horts (Walk 39)
By air
Most visitors fly to Mallorca from airports as far apart as Iceland and Israel, from all over Europe, including over two dozen British airports. The choice of routes and airlines is bewildering, but there are plenty of budget operators and deals for those willing to search online. It is worth accessing the Palma de Mallorca airport website to discover just how many routes and operators are available, www.aena.es (English-language option available; select ‘choose airport’).
By road or rail
Few travellers consider an overland journey to Mallorca, but the Mediterranean ports of Barcelona, Valencia and Dènia are served by trains and buses. For coach travel check Eurolines, www.eurolines.com, or for trains check www.renfe.com. Driving overland is a very time-consuming approach, but may suit expatriates living in southern Spain.
Ferries
Ferries sail from Barcelona, Valencia and Dènia to Palma, including Trasmediterranea, www.trasmediterranea.es, and Balearia, www.balearia.com. Ferries berth so close to Palma that it is possible to walk straight through the historic city centre for onward bus or rail connections,
