in its written form may be understood by anyone with a knowledge of Spanish, but the spoken language is another matter. Between themselves, most islanders speak Mallorquí, so conversations on buses and in bars and shops may be incomprehensible to visitors. However, if you speak a little Spanish you will find that people are delighted and will help you all they can, and even more so if you attempt to converse in Catalan. It is well worth taking the trouble to learn a few words and phrases so as to be able to pass the time of day with local people.
Placenames
Most places in Mallorca had two names in the past, Spanish and Mallorquí. Since Mallorquí was given equal status with Spanish, almost all Spanish placenames have vanished from signposts and street signs. In fact, only in a few tourist resorts are there any Spanish signs to be seen, and Mallorquí may be the only language in evidence in rural areas.
Confusion is likely to arise if you use old maps and guidebooks, which generally show only Spanish placenames. The popular Editorial Alpina maps use authentic Mallorquí placenames. As a rule, many placenames look similar, regardless of whether they are in Spanish or Mallorquí, but some hotels and businesses insist on using Spanish forms for their addresses. For visitors, this could be confusing if your hotel is listed as being in Puerto Sóller or Pollensa, but the only road signs you see are for Port de Sóller or Pollença!
See Appendix A for basic phrases and useful words in English, Spanish and Catalan, along with a topographical glossary for use when interpreting placenames on maps.
Money
The Euro is the currency of Mallorca. Large-denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and avoid the €100 notes if you can. The rest are fine: €50, €20, €10 and €5. Coins come in €2 and €1. Small denomination coins come in values of 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c. Bus drivers will appreciate the correct change and will frown on large notes. Many accommodation providers will accept major credit and debit cards, as will large supermarkets, but small bars, shops and cafés deal only in cash.
Food and drink
All the towns and villages offer the opportunity to buy food and drink. In some places there may only be one or two shops selling food, but there will always be a bar-restaurant, and there are often opportunities to sample local fare. There are occasional roadside bar-restaurants, and refreshment options are mentioned in walk descriptions where relevant. (Note that refreshments are not available on all walks.) Shops generally open from 9am–1pm and 4pm–8pm. Long lunch hours are common, but some shops open all day, while some close on Saturday afternoons, and some may not open at all on Sundays.
Mallorquín cuisine, or cuina Mallorquina, can differ from that of Catalonia on the mainland. Fish dishes are a speciality and so are tapas, served with drinks in many bars. They are usually behind glass on the counter, so you can point to the ones you want. Small or large helpings are offered and a large one can make a substantial meal. See Appendix A for translations of many types of local specialities that may appear on menus.
Kit check
A popular path is followed from l’Ofre into the Barranc de Biniaraix (Walk 23)
Think carefully about the gear you plan to wear and carry. Ground conditions are often hard and stony, but there are plenty of easier tracks and roads. Wear boots or shoes according to your personal preference over such terrain. Bear in mind that hot feet might be more of a problem than wet feet, so think carefully when choosing footwear and socks.
Clothing should be lightweight and light coloured, offering good protection from the sun, while being able to offer good ventilation for sweat. It could be cold on the high mountains, especially in the winter. Waterproofs and windproofs might only be used rarely, so lightweight items will usually be fine. On sunny days, use sunscreen on exposed skin and wear a good sun hat. Bare limestone is very bright in the full sun, so consider taking sunglasses. Ample water must be carried on hot days – a minimum of two litres. Guard against sunburn and heat exhaustion at all times, but be prepared for colder and wetter days too.
Mountain maps
Many of the walking routes in this guidebook are signposted or waymarked, but many of them aren’t, and may require careful route-finding. This guidebook contains extracts from the excellent Editorial Alpina 1:25,000-scale maps, which cover the entire Serra de Tramuntana. The Editorial Alpina maps are far and away the best and most popular maps for exploring the mountains, and are widely available around Mallorca. For details see www.editorialalpina.com.
Maps can be ordered in advance from British suppliers such as Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk) or The Map Shop (www.themapshop.co.uk).
Path conditions
For the most part, clear paths and tracks are followed, sometimes cut through solid rock and often built laboriously by hand. Some of the paths were engineered as zigzagging mule tracks from village to village, and these are often quite plain and obvious to follow. Others were made to exploit woodlands for charcoal, so they tend to fan out among dense woodlands, with many spurs reaching dead-ends. On these tracks it is necessary to pay careful attention to maps and route descriptions, confirming your location at every junction before making the next move. Even when the signposting and waymarking is good, remember that markers can go missing.
Conditions underfoot range from bare rock to stone-paved paths. However, there are also some uncomfortably stony stretches, and some paths are deeply eroded. Leaf-mould can obscure uneven surfaces, so tread carefully. Some mountainsides are covered in huge grassy tussocks of càrritx. Walkers quickly learn to high-step through càrritx, because stepping onto the tough fronds can cause the other foot to be caught as it is swung forward!
Many routes in the mountains – including Walk 32 – involve exposed rocky scrambles
The route could be in the Torrent de la Vall d’en Marc after rain (Walk 44)
Guided walking
Various companies and individuals offer guided walks in Mallorca. While this guidebook gives all the information you need to complete a variety of walks, some readers might be discouraged by some of the tougher routes involving intricate or exposed scrambling on rock (see route descriptions to get an idea of the potential challenges involved; Walks 36 and 47 may be prime candidates). For these routes it could be worth seeking an experienced local guide who specialises in individuals or small groups. Some hotels will put guests in touch with walking guides and companies that they have dealt with in the past and tourist offices will have some useful contacts. There are opportunities to join guided walking groups, and these may be advertised in tourist resorts. Tramuntana Tours, tel 971 632423, www.tramuntanatours.com, offers a variety of walks that anyone can join. Jaume Tort, www.camins-mallorca.info, guides individuals and groups, and having done all the research for the Editorial Alpina maps of Mallorca, his knowledge of the mountains is extensive.
Emergencies
Until
