The island of sa Dragonera can only be seen from the western parts of Mallorca. It appears as a dragon-back ridge with a sharp edge and rocky peaks. It has been protected as a natural park since 1995 and is currently equipped with four trails that allow a thorough exploration – although walking all of them in a day is a big undertaking. Countless numbers of lizards will dash out of your way all day!
Cala Lladó is the start and finish of the walk on sa Dragonera
Buses serving Sant Elm stop on the Plaça de na Caragola, where a very short walk leads down to the ferry landing. The landing on sa Dragonera is at Cala Lladó. Walk up to the information centre and spare a few moments to learn about the natural history of the island, and to study maps showing the layout of the trails. These are numbered from 1 to 4 and are signposted at crucial junctions. This walk takes in all four trails, but it can be shortened, making a good excuse to return for another trip.
Itinerari 1 – na Miranda – 1.2km circular
Itinerari 2 – Far de Tramuntana – 1.7km one-way
Itinerari 3 – Far de Llebeig – 4.5km one-way
Itinerari 4 – Far Vell – 3.8km one-way
Leave the information centre to reach a point where tracks intersect and signposts list all the trails and destinations. Turn left to follow itineraris 3 and 4 along an old tarmac road, later passing a gate, turning a sharp bend, then reaching a junction and another signpost. Turn right for itinerari 4 to Far Vell, walking up a stony track and passing through a gateway at es Tancat. The winding track climbs, passing a little house and eventually reaching the gap of Coll Roig; a viewpoint at 98m (322ft).
Keep climbing and an amazing, tightly zigzagging path rises at a gentle gradient, despite the steepness of the bushy slope. It reaches the crumbling lighthouse of Far Vell, on the summit of na Pòpia, at 349m (1145ft).
A watchtower was constructed on na Pòpia in 1581, and then demolished in 1850 to make way for the lighthouse of Far Vell, which was in a poor position as it was sometimes obscured by mist. In 1910 two more lighthouses, Far de Llebeig and Far de Tramuntana (see below), were built and Far Vell was allowed to fall into ruins.
Admire the length of the island and the cliff coast of western Mallorca, then retrace steps all the way down to the old tarmac road. If time is limited, turn left to return to Calo Lladó.
Turn right along the road, as signposted for itinerari 3 to Far de Llebeig. Simply follow the road as it rises gently, passing a small reservoir. Later, when a signpost indicates a path on the right, it is worth a very short diversion along it to see a ruined limekiln. The road later has a wall alongside, where a cliff drops to the sea, and a lighthouse can be seen ahead.
The road is very bendy as it approaches the lighthouse, which is Far de Llebeig (the light is operational but the buildings are derelict), and there is also the option of taking a short path down to the left to look at a watchtower, Torre des Llebeig, which can be entered by those with the nerve to climb a 16-rung ladder.
Retrace steps all the way back to Cala Lladó and consider if there is enough time to walk further. Turn left to follow itinerari 2 for Far de Tramuntana, passing toilets and rising along a stony track through woods. Pass a signpost, and note its position for the return. The track leaves the woods and descends to yet another lighthouse; Far de Tramuntana. This is also the closest of the three lighthouses to Mallorca.
Once again, retrace steps, but when the signpost is reached that was noted on the outward journey, turn left down a path with steps on a wooded slope. A track continues, passing a crenellated tower. Reach a viewpoint and picnic area at na Miranda, then follow the track down past cultivated terraces to return to Calo Lladó. Any remaining time can be spent admiring a tiny botanic garden.
WALK 2
Port d’Andratx and Pintal Vermell
| Start | Footbridge, Port d’Andratx |
| Finish | Bus stop, Sant Elm |
| Distance | 9km (5½ miles) |
| Total ascent/descent | 370m (1215ft) |
| Time | 3hrs |
| Terrain | Fairly easy roads, tracks and paths, but one path needs care to locate |
| Map | Alpina Tramuntana Sud |
| Refreshment | Plenty of choice at Port d’Andratx and Sant Elm |
| Transport | Buses serve Port d’Andratx and Sant Elm from Andratx |
The forested hills between Port d’Andratx and Sant Elm are popular with walkers. The following route is not signposted or waymarked, but it has long been considered the first stage of the long-distance GR221 trail. It is an easy linear walk, with the summit of Pintal Vermell offering fine views in the middle, and there are bus services at either end.
Leave the head of the bay at Port d’Andratx by crossing a humped footbridge over a river at s’Aulet. Follow a broad palm-fringed promenade past the Club de Vela boatyard and a marina. Turn right as signposted for Mon Port, up Carretera Aldea Blanca. Turn left at a crossroads along Carrer de Cala d’Egos, again signposted for Mon Port. Keep right when the road forks, as left is for the Mon Port Hotel and a striking windpump.
Pass old olive terraces and avoid a road climbing steeply on the right, rising gently into pine forest instead. Watch for a steep and stony path on the right, often worn to bedrock. (The road could be followed uphill, but it is very convoluted.) The path climbs straight uphill, clipping three bends on the road. Take care at weekends, when mountain bikers tend to hurtle down the path, making the road a safer option. It is possible to switch between the road and the path at all three bends, as well as one more time where the path and road cross each other.
The path finally reaches a track junction on the gap of Coll des Vent, at 163m (535ft). There are a couple of ruined limekilns nearby and views back to Port d’Andratx. Turn left to follow a track away from the gap, keeping right at two junctions that appear soon afterwards. The track runs gradually downhill on a forested slope, reaching another junction around 110m (360ft). Keep right again, but note that a left turn leads down to a rugged little beach at Cala d’Egos.
Follow the track uphill, climbing steeply at times, and keep left at a junction where there is a sitja. When a higher junction is reached below Puig d’en Ric, turn left to climb further, passing
