Tiger (page 44), holds that the addition of chilies resulted in a dish so hot it made tigers cry.
Thai cooks rely on an array of basic seasonings to impart distinctively Thai flavors tho food. These include ingredients such as fish sauce, garlic, lemongrass, coconut milk, palm sugar, kaffir limes, galangal, fresh coriander and coriander seeds, shallots, and dried shrimp.
Regardless of nationality, anyone who embraces this Southeast Asian cuisine should understand how a traditional or typical meal is served. Thais prefer communal eating, and their main meals generally consist of multiple courses served family style. These may include a soup; a curry; a grilled, stir-fried, or steamed meat or seafood; assorted condiments; perhaps a salad served as an appetizer; and fruit or a simple sweet for dessert. It is common practice to scoop rice onto the plate and take a portion of one of the main dishes to eat alongside the rice before taking a serving of another dish. All courses are usually served at the same time, except for dessert.
Breakfasts and lunches are lighter, and may center on fried rice or noodles with a meat or vegetable garnish. As elsewhere in Asia, rice—usually eaten morning, noon, and night—is basic to the cuisine. This staple is a bland counterpoint and welcome relief beside the rich, savory, and spicy stir-fries, curries, and grilled dishes. Thais often turn to rice porridge as a palate cleanser; or, if the meal has been minimal, a filling dish. When not at the table, Thais snack on the portable treats that are seemingly offered at every turn. Street and market vendors— their baskets, stands, and grills full of meats, noodles, soups, and sweets—are a common sight along city sidewalks and in open-air country markets. For a list of basic Thai ingredients, see page 14.
Contrary to what foreigners may assume, Thais generally use only a fork and a spoon, rather than chopsticks, at meals; the fork neatly pushes the food onto the spoon for easier eating. Except for some noodle dishes, Thai food is not usually eaten with chopsticks.
Aware of the growing global popularity of Thai food, the Thai government has been working diligently over the past decade to increase both the appreciation of Thai cooking and the establishment of Thai restaurants in such emerging markets as Dubai and Saudi Arabia, as well as Italy, Russia, and the Czech Republic. One of the first governmental pushes to promote Thai food occurred in 2002, when the Thai government sought to make Thai food more widely available across the globe. The campaign has been a resounding success, with the number of Thai restaurants worldwide rising from 5,500 to 20,000 as of 2013, according to a spokesman for the Thai National Innovation Agency.
According to a 2011 estimate from the Thai government’s Foreign Office, 5,000 of these restaurants are located in the US. In addition, many American restaurant kitchens now borrow extensively from the Thai spice shelf, just to give their menus an exotic spin. Furthermore, most supermarkets have begun stocking Thai-centric ingredients such as curry pastes or stalks of fresh lemongrass. Even some mass-marketing of Thai flavors has occurred, like the (ultimately unsuccessful) attempt by Subway to sell a Thai chicken sandwich in mid-2000. The California Pizza Kitchen is one of the national franchises that have taken Thai food seriously: it features a Thai-style pizza.
In response to the burgeoning popularity of Thai food in the United States, the Royal Thai Counsel in Los Angeles has appointed the first Culinary Ambassador of Thai Cuisine, a young Thai chef named Jet Tila. His duties include touring the country to showcase Thai cooking in all its authentic glory. Indeed, the National Innovation Agency is trying to standardize popular Thai dishes such as Pad Thai (page 114) and Tom Yum (page 50) in order to offer authentic Thai recipes. The agency has realized that many cooks in Thai restaurants are not natives of Thailand.
The intense focus on Thai cooking and Thai restaurants is good news for the well-traveled American public seeking authentic Thai meals. It has helped to set the stage for chefs like Nongkran Daks to showcase their skills. For this reason, the compendium of traditional Thai recipes perfected by Nongkran Daks which you now hold in your hands is a real treasure. Welcome to Nong’s Thai Kitchen.
Nong teaching at CulinAerie Cooking School in Washington, DC.; Steamed seafood in banana-leaf cups; Rice Soup with Shrimp (page 54); Nong in the kitchen of Thai Basil in Chantilly, VA.
Thai Ingredients and Utensils
Though Thai cuisine varies widely, many recipes have common elements. The items described here can all be found at Asian markets or ordered on the Internet.
Bean curd: A staple of the Asian and Western vegetarian diet and a delicious protein substitute in any cuisine, bean curd (also called tofu) is made in a process similar to making cheese. Fresh bean curd, cut in large pieces or cubed, may be steamed, deep-fried, and stir-fried. Thais add bean curd to many dishes, including soups, stews, and curries. If refrigerated and placed in water, fresh bean curd keeps well for a few days.
Cardamom: A member of the same family as ginger, cardamom produces tiny seeds in a straw-colored pod that add an elusive flavor and fragrance to many Thai dishes, particularly curries. Thai cardamom is milder than the Indian version. Cardamom is readily available at Asian and Western markets.
Chinese broccoli: This Asian relative of Western broccoli has long, slender stems and tops with narrow leaves. Popular in Cantonese cooking, this easy-to-prepare vegetable is available at most well-stocked supermarkets and at Asian markets. Its Cantonese name is gai lan. In Thailand, it is called pak khana.
Chilies: Many different sizes, shapes, and colors of chili are used in Thai cooking, all of which add a level of heat and flavor so typical of this Asian cuisine. The most commonly used chilies are the small, pointed red, green, or red-orange bird’s eye chilies, which produce a fiery taste, and the much milder finger-length chilies. Dried chilies require a brief soaking before being ground into a curry paste. Thai chilies are readily available at Asian markets and at some well-stocked Western supermarkets. The general Thai word for chilies is prik.
Coconut cream/coconut milk: Although the names may seem interchangeable, coconut cream and coconut milk are really two different ingredients. Traditionally, Thais grate fresh coconuts and soak the shreds in hot water; the first pressing of the shreds yields coconut cream. A second soaking and pressing of shreds produces the thinner coconut milk. Coconut cream is suitable for frying, and is also the basis for several curries; the thinner milk is also a base for many curries. Only a few brands of Thai coconut cream are readily available in Asian markets. These include Mae Ploy (the label says milk, but it contains only thick cream), Aroy-D, and Chaokoh. Coconut milk is much more readily available in Asian and Western markets than coconut cream. If it has not been shaken, a can of coconut milk may have an upper layer of thick cream and a layer of the thinner milk below. Some brands, however, contain none of the thick cream layer at all. It should be noted that one 13.5-ounce (400-ml) can contains about 2 cups of milk. Leftovers may be stored in a tightly
