container for up to two days in the refrigerator or one month in the freezer.
Coriander: In all its forms, fresh coriander—also known as cilantro and Chinese parsley—is a staple of Thai cooking. The fragrant fresh leaves are often used as a garnish, while the roots, pounded together with garlic and black pepper, provide a basic seasoning for many dishes. Dried and toasted coriander seeds form the basis of many different curry pastes, as well as the seasoning for Thai Beef Jerky (page 30). Fresh coriander is readily available year round at Asian and Western markets. If you wish to make Thai Pesto Paste (page 24), look for bunches with the roots still attached; these will require very thorough rinsing to wash away the grit.
Fish sauce: Also known as nam pla, fish sauce is a staple of Thai cooking. This distinctive sauce is made from salted, fermented fish or small shrimp. Fish sauce is widely available, but quality and taste vary; generally speaking, the quality of the sauce increases with the price. It keeps for several years stored in a cool, dry place.
Galangal: This rhizome, also known as Thai ginger or kha, is a close relative of ginger, which it resembles in appearance but not in flavor. Fresh galangal, with its citrus-ginger taste, adds a unique essence to many Thai dishes, including stir-fries, soups, and curry pastes. If fresh galangal is not available, you may find dried sliced galangal, which you can rehydrate in boiling water; frozen galangal root; or powdered galangal. Fresh galangal will keep in the freezer for several months if tightly wrapped.
Kaffir lime: The small, knobby, fragrant lime known as makrut in Thailand is a key seasoning for many dishes. Although the lime itself has little juice, its grated rind and its leaves, either whole or shredded, add a distinctive flavor to soups, curries, and stir-fries. Rarely found fresh even at Asian markets, packaged kaffir limes are often sold frozen. Several online markets sell fresh kaffir lime leaves and whole limes. The shiny green leaves are so prized for their unique flavor that Thais often grow their own kaffir lime trees for easy access. Though more readily available, Western limes and their leaves and rinds are not a suitable substitute.
Lemongrass: An essential component of many Thai dishes, the highly aromatic lemongrass stalks impart a lemony fragrance and flavor. The plump root end of the tough stalks must be peeled and then pounded or ground up when used in a curry or for a soup seasoning to release the flavor. While only the fleshy, yellowish part of the stalk is digestible, Thai cooks often use the full stalk in a soup or curry and remove it before serving. One stalk yields several tablespoons of sliced or chopped lemongrass. All Asian and many Western markets carry fresh lemongrass, but in a pinch, dried and powdered lemongrass can be used. Fresh lemongrass freezes well for several months. There are no equivalents.
Mortar and pestle: Before the age of food processors, the traditional large stone mortar and pestle were necessary pieces of kitchen equipment in Thailand, for it was with these that Thai cooks pounded ingredients together to make the basic paste for curry seasonings. According to an old wives’ tale, a young suitor would walk through a Thai village listening to the noise of pounding. If the action sounded sure and swift, he would go in and ask for the young girl’s hand in marriage, as this meant she would be a good home cook.
Oyster sauce: Made from oyster extract, soy sauce, and water, oyster sauce is readily available in Asian and Western markets. It is a much-used seasoning in many dishes, and goes well with noodles, seafood, vegetables, bean curd, and meat.
Noodles: Although Thai cooks incorporate a variety of noodles in their meals, those most commonly used include thick, flat fresh rice noodles; dried rice noodles; slender dried vermicelli; brittle mung bean noodles; and fresh or dried egg noodles. Dried noodles used as accompaniments to curries usually require cooking and draining ahead of time; otherwise, they may be added directly to a soup. Fresh rice noodles that are coated with oil need no further preparation; if you rinse them, they may fall apart during cooking.
Palm sugar: Made from the sap of the coconut palm or the sugar palm tree, palm sugar is a popular Asian sweetener. The caramel-colored Thai palm sugar comes in the form of solid blocks or discs of varying sizes; it is also available as a semi-soft sugar in a jar. While less sweet than granulated sugar, it still imparts a sweet undertone wherever it is used. Thai palm sugar is available in most Asian markets and from online Asian grocers. If palm sugar is not available, substitute soft brown sugar or granulated sugar with a bit of maple syrup instead.
Pomelo: This large citrus fruit, native to Southeast Asia, resembles a thick-skinned grapefruit. It weighs between two and four pounds and has a sweet or mildly tart flavor. The thick pale-yellow skin is easy to peel, but because the membrane covering each segment may be bitter and tough, segments are usually peeled before eating. Thais eat pomelos as a dessert as well as in salads.
Shrimp, dried and paste: Tiny air- or sun-dried shrimp add a slightly fishy and salty flavor to many dishes. They are available in most Asian markets, as well as some supermarkets. Be sure that the shrimp are still somewhat pinkish, hence fresh, and have not turned gray or white with age. If a recipe calls for shrimp powder, dry roast some dried shrimp, then pulverize in a blender or food processor. Shrimp paste ranges in color from pink to dark brown, with the pink used in curries and the darker paste used in dipping sauces. Shrimp paste should always be cooked before using, even if the recipe does not call for cooking. To use shrimp paste, wrap it in banana leaves and grill it before adding it to other ingredients.
Strainer: Wire-mesh strainers like the one shown here are commonplace in Asia. They are useful for skimming and scooping out items such as dumplings, noodles, and egg rolls from liquids or when deep-fat frying. The handles are usually made of bamboo.
Rice: A staple of the Thai diet, cooked rice is served at almost every meal
