Steamed rice is served with grilled foods in the northeast part of Thailand; rice is also made into the Thai porridge known as chok and incorporated into desserts. The fragrant long-grain variety may be the best-known Thai rice, although new, organic strains of rice are now finding their way to the market. Counted among the most popular strains, it remains costlier than other kinds of rice, as it expands relatively little when it is cooked. Thais use many other rice varieties, including a long-grain glutinous type called sticky rice that is used in desserts and, particularly in northern and northeast Thailand, served with savory dishes. Regardless of type, rice is easily and quickly prepared either in a rice cooker or simply in a cookpot on the stove. Sticky rice must be soaked first, then steamed rather than boiled (see page 27). Black sticky rice is also used as a starch in some Thai desserts (see page 145).
Steamers: Thais use several kinds of steamers for their cooking. The woven bamboo baskets used for steaming sticky rice fit into a large metal steamer pot that holds boiling water. Round woven-bamboo steamers have one or two tiers for stacking when cooking dumplings or Thai sweets; these rest on a metal rack inside a cookpot of boiling water. Also essential are tiered metal steamers of varying sizes. These generally consist of two layers, with the bottom one holding boiling water. They are useful for steaming seafood, dumplings, vegetables, or even sticky rice. (For sticky rice, line the upper layer with cheesecloth and place the rice on top.)
Tamarind: The bushy tamarind tree produces an edible pod-like fruit. When the dried pod is soaked and then squeezed to remove the liquid, the interior flesh produces a slightly sour juice used to flavor many Thai dishes. Dried tamarind must be soaked for at least 10 minutes, then squeezed and strained through a sieve to remove seeds and fibrous material. Alternatively, tamarind paste is available in cans; this can be stored in the refrigerator indefinitely.
Thai basil: With its pointed dark green leaves, an edible purple flower and a slight minty taste, Thai basil, known in Thailand as bai horapa, is a tropical version of the more common Italian or Mediterranean basil, but the two basils are not interchangeable. Thai basil is readily available in Asian markets and in many supermarkets year round. My restaurant, Thai Basil, takes its name and symbol from this herb.
Thai eggplants: Several different varieties of eggplant are used in Thai cooking. These include the rather bitter pea-sized eggplants known as Thai wild eggplant or pea eggplant; the round green or white Thai eggplants, which are slightly larger than a golf ball; and the slender 8- to 10-inch-long purple, green, or white eggplants variously known as oriental, Asian, Japanese, or Chinese eggplants. Asian eggplants and round Thai eggplants are readily available in Asian markets, but the tiny Thai wild eggplant may be more difficult to find.
Basic Methods and Techniques
While items like pandan juice and tamarind juice may be available commercially, using fresh homemade versions makes for a huge difference in flavor.
Pandan Juice
Nam Bai Toey
The juice of pandan (also known as pandanus) leaves is the “vanilla” of Thai cuisine. This ingredient is used in desserts, and, on occasion, with rice and in drinks. It has a wonderfully distinctive flavor and a fragrance so pleasing that some taxi drivers keep it in the back of their cabs. You may also encounter the scent of pandan in the bathrooms of some Thai establishments and in flower arrangements. Commercially available pandan juice may also be used, but it doesn’t compare with the flavor and aroma that the freshly made juice adds to dishes. Look for the leaves fresh or frozen in Asian supermarkets or dried from online markets. You can also purchase pandan leaf extract from Asian markets and on the internet.
Preparation time: 5 MINUTES
Makes 1/2 CUP (125 ML)
1 cup (130 g) chopped pandan leaves
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
Combine pandan leaves and water in a blender and purée until smooth. Drain through a sieve or squeeze through a cheesecloth into a container. Discard the leaves. Any leftover liquid should be frozen.
Tamarind Juice
Nam Makham
Tamarind paste is available in 8-oz (225-g) and 1-lb (450-g) packages in most Asian markets. This juice can be refrigerated for up to a week; after that, it may turn rancid.
Preparation time: 1 MINUTE, PLUS 20 MINUTES FOR SOAKING
Makes 1 CUP (250 ML)
Break off 1/3 cup (100 g) tamarind paste and place in a nonreactive bowl. Add 1 cup (250 ml) warm water. Let the tamarind soak for 30 minutes, then squeeze and knead the paste until it dissolves. Strain out seeds and fiber, and either use or store the resulting liquid.
How to Make Toasted Rice
1 For best flavor, rice should be freshly toasted. If you only cook Thai food occasionally, just make a little at a time so the toasted rice doesn’t lose its fragrance. As I cook Thai food frequently, I make a cup at a time and keep the unused portion in a tightly closed jar in the refrigerator.
2 Dry-fry uncooked white sticky rice in a wok or skillet over low heat, stirring frequently. To enhance the fragrance, add 4 to 5 slices of galangal or lemongrass. Keep frying until the grains are deep golden-brown, about 13 minutes.
3 Let toasted rice cool, and then grind in a spice grinder until it resembles cornmeal.
How to Toast Seeds
Spread the seeds in a layer on a clean baking sheet and toast them in a 350°F (175°C) oven, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes or until fragrant and lightly browned. It may be easier to toast the amount needed in a dry skillet over low heat, stirring frequently, until the seeds are toasted. This may take just a few minutes depending on the type of seed and its size. You can also microwave seeds on high heat for 2 minutes, stirring after 1 minute to be sure they toast evenly.
How to Toast Coconut
1 Coconut is toasted much as seeds are. Spread coconut flakes in a shallow baking pan. Toast in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 15 to 20 minutes or until lightly browned.
2 If you only need a small amount, you can toast coconut in a frying pan over low heat,
