both and seeing which you prefer.
Note: Those allergic to aspirin shouldn’t use a BHA exfoliant because of aspirin’s close relationship to BHA: BHA is salicylic acid, while aspirin is acetylsalicylic acid.
Tips on Getting the Most from Your AHA or BHA Exfoliant:
Experiment with different strengths of AHA and BHA to see which concentration gives you the best results without any signs of irritation.
You can apply an AHA or BHA product once or twice per day.
You can apply either type of exfoliant in the eye area, but not on the eyelid or directly under the eye (along the lower lash line).
Apply the AHA or BHA product after your face is cleansed and after your toner has dried.
Once the AHA or BHA product has been absorbed, you can apply any other product in your routine, such as moisturizer, serum, eye cream, sunscreen, and/or foundation.
If you’re using a topical prescription product such as Renova, other retinoids, or any of the topical prescription products for rosacea or acne, apply the AHA or BHA exfoliant first, and then follow with your medications from lightest to heaviest texture. Some people will find their skin doesn’t tolerate a topical retinoid along with a AHA or BHA, but it can provide brilliant results for others, so it’s definitely worth seeing if this combination works for you.
It’s important to understand that exfoliating with an AHA or BHA does not negatively affect how healthy skin cells are generated in the lower layers of the skin. That’s because AHA and BHA ingredients do not penetrate that deep below the surface layers of skin or beyond the inside of the pore. Exfoliating these dead skin cells can improve collagen production, increase skin’s ability to hold moisture, and allow pores to function normally! Contrary to myth, AHA and BHA exfoliants do not thin the skin. [35,36]
Wondering if you can just use a rinse-off scrub or a Clarisonic device instead of an AHA or BHA? We discussed this earlier in the chapter, but it bears repeating: The benefits of manual exfoliation are not even remotely the same as the benefits from a well-formulated, leave-on AHA (glycolic or lactic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid) exfoliant. These chemical physical-type exfoliants are best thought of as an extra-cleansing step (much like using a soft washcloth or Clarisonic brush) to boost the results from your cleanser.
Serums: Why You Really Should Use One
While it’s true that every product in your routine should contain a skin-pleasing array of antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients, you should have higher expectations for your serums. Why? Well-formulated serums differ from moisturizers in that they don’t “make room” for the traditional emollients or thickeners found in moisturizers—these are the ingredients that give moisturizers their lotion or rich cream textures. Likewise, serums won’t contain the sunscreen actives that a daytime moisturizer would. Instead, serums use that extra space to pack in other beneficial ingredients or even more antioxidants than any other product in your routine.
Serums won’t replace your daytime or nighttime moisturizers, but they will boost your anti-aging results and overall skin health when used morning and evening. Exception: If you have oily skin (and thus don’t need extra moisture), a well-formulated serum can work as a double-duty product that replaces your nighttime moisturizer. It can be the only moisturizer your skin needs at night!
Finding a good serum is akin to starting a long-term relationship—the real benefits come from sticking with your serum day in and day out. While you’ll likely see some improvements right away (because the antioxidant-rich formula soothes redness and brightens skin), over the long term you’ll see other signs of damage fade and your skin will look and feel healthier and firmer!
Look to serums that contain anti-aging ingredients that are proven effective based on a large number of independent, peer-reviewed studies. Such substances include potent, stable antioxidants, such as vitamin C, green tea/EGCG, grape, and resveratrol, and cell-communicating ingredients such as retinol and niacinamide.
There’s no single “best” serum, so choose based on your skin type and concerns. No matter how well-formulated a serum is, if it isn’t right for you or isn’t a match for your skin type, you’ll end up disliking the results, and you won’t stick with it. For example, if you have oily or combination skin, look for a water-light serum that won’t feel heavy or greasy. Alternatively, if you have dry skin, you’ll likely love a serum packed with antioxidant-rich moisturizing plant oils! All others can choose a serum based on personal preference, and don’t be afraid to rotate among two or three serums so you can enjoy the unique benefits each provides. Sensitive skin? Choose a serum’s texture based on how oily or dry your skin is, and make sure it’s loaded with anti-irritant ingredients like willow herb, sea whip, and licorice root among others.
Note: Well-formulated serums tend to be concentrated, and so also tend to cost more than moisturizers, even though serums typically offer a smaller amount of product than moisturizers.
When should you begin using a serum? It’s common knowledge that eating a balanced diet and exercising keeps your body healthier and younger-acting as you age. With that in mind, does it make sense to wait until you’re unhealthy and in your 50s or 60s to start a healthier lifestyle? Of course not! The same is true when it comes to anti-aging for your skin!
Start using serums loaded with these types of impressive ingredients before signs of damage occur (it’s never too soon) and you’ll be on track for a more even complexion and firmer, healthier skin as you age. Your skin never “gets used” to these types of ingredients, just like your body never “gets used” to eating healthy foods.
Of course, these ingredients will work even after skin damage starts showing up, but without question, sooner is better than later!
A Moisturizer by Any Other Name…
Moisturizer. Wrinkle cream. Firming fluid. Anti-aging cream. However the cosmetics industry refers to them (and the name variations are endless), a moisturizer is supposed to improve skin’s softness, smoothness, and ability to hold on to the vital substances it needs to look and act younger. Some moisturizers are brilliant at this, but a surprising number of them fall short—and this applies to a lot of the more expensive options.
The standard term for this skincare step is “moisturizer,” but this step is not about giving skin moisture, and it isn’t about applying a lotion or cream. In reality, not everyone needs a “moisturizer,” but everyone needs to add antioxidants, skin-repairing ingredients, and cell-communicating ingredients to their skin every day. These types of ingredients are essential to maintain and achieve the skin you want by giving it the substances it needs to repair itself, create healthy skin cells, make healthy collagen, and (to the extent possible) repair damaged elastin and improve skin’s immune response. [5,6,15,16,17] Regardless of the product’s name or texture, choosing a product loaded with these elements is vital for making any skin function more normally and look as young and healthy as possible.
As long as a product in this general, large category of moisturizers is well-formulated and includes an array of those key ingredients, the only thing you need to think about is the texture, because aside from that the name on the product’s label is irrelevant.
Among products that are well-formulated, the only thing that differentiates all the “moisturizers” and antiwrinkle or similar products from one another is their texture. If you have dry to very dry skin, you need a product that comes in a cream form; if you have normal to dry skin, a lotion will work well. If you have normal to slightly dry skin or combination skin, a lightweight lotion or thin fluid is your best choice. If
