but you may also want to consider a mattifying serum (not to be confused with foundation primers, which typically do not have impressive formulas in terms of providing the types of ingredients outlined above).
What a Moisturizer Shouldn’t Include
We listed above the types of ingredients a good moisturizer should include to heal and improve skin. But almost as important, is what a moisturizer should not contain. Many moisturizers, including those labeled for dry or sensitive skin, contain ingredients that can make the problem worse, or counteract the beneficial properties of their good ingredients. We’re talking about alcohol (not the “good” fatty alcohols, but those such as denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol) and fragrance, including fragrant oils such as those from lavender, rose, lemon, and mint.
If any of these are included in the moisturizer you’re considering, walk away! Many of these ingredients, especially the volatile plant oils (think lavender and citrus oils) are pitched as natural or organic solutions to skincare problems, but they cause irritation and inflammation—the last thing dry skin needs!
Packaging Matters!
Avoid any moisturizer packaged in a jar! As we explain in Chapter 14, Common Beauty Questions Answered and Myths Debunked, no matter how great a product’s formula, jar packaging, and to a lesser extent clear packaging (i.e., it lets light in), is always a deal breaker. This type of packaging exposes the beneficial delicate ingredients to light and air, causing them to break down. Given the number and variety of products available today that come in air-reducing or airless packaging, why waste your money on products whose most beneficial ingredients will be gone (or at least be less effective) shortly after the first use?
Eye Creams
Eye creams are certainly an option if it’s a well-formulated product, meaning it contains ingredients that are helpful to skin around the eyes and if it omits ingredients that can be problematic. We know this sounds like a really basic idea, a no-brainer, but there are lots of eye creams that contain ingredients that aren’t suitable for the eye area, or for anywhere on the face.
A serious concern about eye creams is that most of the ones labeled as being for daytime use don’t contain sun protection, which would make them pro-aging, not anti-aging (if you aren’t wearing them under a sunscreen). Sun damage is one of the major causes of wrinkles and sagging around the eye area, so this area needs sun protection as much as the face does.
Speaking of sunscreens, we strongly recommend using only mineral-based sunscreen formulas in the eye area. In this case, “mineral” means they contain titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide as the only active ingredients. Both of these active ingredients are gentle on skin and provide broad-spectrum sun protection. It’s not that synthetic sunscreen ingredients aren’t effective; they just aren’t as gentle and non-irritating as mineral sunscreen ingredients. This is true whether the product is labeled as an eye cream or not.
All of the marketing hype you’ve heard about how eye creams are specially formulated for the sensitive, thin skin around the eyes, that they get rid of puffy eyes, dark circles, and lift or tighten sagging skin is often not true. There are a few ingredients that can be considered special for the eye area, but, for the most part, the same essential ingredients that benefit the face benefit the eye area, too. A great facial moisturizer can absolutely be used around the eye area, which is why we maintain that not everyone needs an eye cream (or eye gel or eye serum).
The exception to this is when the skin around your eyes is different from the skin on your face. For example, if the skin around your eyes is drier than the skin on your face, you’ll need to use a more emollient moisturizer around the eyes.
This is especially true if your skin is oily. The gel or liquid moisturizing formula that would work great on the face for those with oily or combination skin would probably not be enough for the eye area. But again, it doesn’t have to be labeled “eye cream,” but if it helps you to use a special product for this area, then as long as it’s a great product we couldn’t be happier.
We discuss eye creams and concerns like puffy eyes and dark circles in Chapter 14, Common Beauty Questions Answered and Myths Debunked.
Moisturizers with SPF: The Cornerstone!
It’s OK to be obsessive about some things, like eating healthy, flossing your teeth, driving safely, and using sunscreen every day. That last item, daily application of a moisturizer with sunscreen, should absolutely be on your list. Your dedication to this step means you’ll have the last laugh when it comes to laugh lines and other signs we associate with aging—which are overwhelmingly about sun damage.
Without a doubt, sunscreen is the #1 antiwrinkle, anti-sagging, and anti–brown spot product you can use. Unprotected UV exposure is the #1 cause of virtually every sign of aging. We refer to sunscreen as the cornerstone of a skincare routine because without it, nothing else you do to improve the health and appearance of your skin will have much impact; UV damage without protection literally destroys skin, slowly and surely. [8,9,37]
See Chapter 6, Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered, for key details on this most critical product in your daily skincare routine.
Targeted Treatments: for Specific Concerns
At some point, most people’s skin will have a need for one or more products we refer to as targeted treatments. As the name states, these specialized treatments target a specific skin concern, such as breakouts, dark spots, wrinkles, stubborn bumps, redness, and so on.
For example, those who struggle with acne will likely benefit from a targeted acne treatment that contains the topical disinfectant ingredient benzoyl peroxide. Those with brown spots will likely benefit from a targeted treatment that contains ingredients like hydroquinone, niacinamide, or high concentrations of vitamin C. Very dry skin can benefit from targeted treatments that are a blend of facial oils, either used alone or mixed with a moisturizer.
If you’re using multiple treatment products over the same area, which one you apply first comes down to texture (go from thin to thick) and personal preference. The good news is you don’t need to worry about the ingredients in different treatments interfering with one another; almost without exception, you can layer such products or use them as needed, morning and/or evening, depending on your concerns.
Targeted treatments also include topical prescription products, such as retinoids like tretinoin (Renova) for wrinkles or Finacea (azelaic acid) for rosacea.
Facial Masks and Their Place in Your Routine
Despite their enduring popularity around the world, we’ve never been big fans of facial masks. It’s not that masks are a problem (at least not when they’re well-formulated, but many aren’t) or that they can’t be helpful. It’s because what you do to take care of your skin daily matters far more than any mask you might apply once or twice per week, however indulgent or special it may seem.
In East Asian cultures, many use masks once daily. Although masks may not be all that helpful if you use them only once a week, if you’re willing to use them more often, they can provide greater benefit—but it’s even more critical that they be well-formulated. Most important, masks must work in harmony with your skincare routine. For example, if everything in your routine is gentle and well-formulated, but the mask contains irritating or problematic ingredients, it’s merely undermining what the rest of your skincare routine is doing to help you get (and keep) the best skin of your life.
There are two main types of masks: those that moisturize and hydrate (best for normal to dry skin) and those that absorb oil and help dislodge superficial blackheads, leaving skin smooth and matte (best for those with oily
