who want to use a mask should err on the side of a more emollient mask rather than an oil-absorbing one. If you have combination skin (dry and oily areas), consider using two masks: a moisturizing formula in the dry areas and an absorbent mask in the oily areas.
Whether you use a mask or not, know that, despite claims to the contrary, they’re not essential. Peel-off or sheet masks, masks that change color or feel warm as they dry, or special eye-area “cooling” masks can be fun ways to pamper yourself, so if that floats your boat, go for it—just make sure the masks you’re considering don’t contain problematic ingredients like denatured alcohol, menthol, witch hazel, fragrant plant oils, or other known skin irritants. Even if you apply something only infrequently, the emphasis should always be on being gentle and not exposing your skin to damaging ingredients.
How often and how to apply a mask are a matter of personal preference and the usage instructions specific to each facial mask. Generally, a mask is applied to clean skin, then rinsed or massaged in, to be followed by the rest of your morning or evening skincare routine. It is perfectly fine to leave moisturizing masks on overnight; clay or peel-off masks, however, should always be rinsed or removed after 10–15 minutes because leaving them on longer increases the risk of skin feeling unusually dry and tight. Eye-area masks may be left on or massaged into skin after a certain period of time, based on the product’s usage instructions.
Chapter 5
How to Put Together the Perfect Skincare Routine
Skincare Routines That Provide Results
We promised the best skin of your life in this book’s title, and here’s the secret: The only way to have beautiful skin—and keep it that way—is to start (and never stray from) applying a state-of-the-art skincare routine based on what unbiased, scientific research shows works for your skin! There’s really no other possible way to finally have the skin you’ve always wanted. Focusing on the claims for the product, on suspicious before-and-after photos, or on fictional marketing about a new miracle ingredient or miracle product will hurt your skin and waste your money time after time. If you’ve been at this skin thing for a while, aren’t you tired of that crazy merry-go-round? We’ve all gotten to that point—it’s what inspires us to find out what works and what doesn’t—and why!
With a wiser outlook in mind, the next step is to understand what kinds of products work together, how they benefit your skin, and the order in which to use them. The information we present in the table that follows is an easy-to-follow guideline to help you put together your own skincare routine or to custom-select products based on what works best for you and your specific skin concerns, step by step.
We explain the purpose of each type of product, why you need it, and what results you can expect, whether you prefer a basic or more advanced routine. Keep in mind that if you have multiple skincare concerns, you may need to add more than one treatment or targeted treatment product. We wish we could tell you there’s one skincare product that can do it all, but it just isn’t possible. Addressing a variety of skincare concerns requires more than one bottle or tube, no matter the product’s claims or cost.
A note on targeted treatments: You may be able to merely add one targeted treatment product to your daily routine, or you might need to alternate its use with other treatment products. If your routine is complex and involves several products (including topical prescription products), you might need to experiment to discover which method and what frequency of application works best for you. Now let’s go over the products and steps to get you started!
The Products You Need (and Why)
Cleanser (Step 1)
What is this for? A gentle, water-soluble, soap-free cleanser removes debris, oil, and makeup.
Why do I need this? Rinsing with water is not enough to clean your face. When your face is clean, it allows the other products you use to work even better, morning and evening.
What results will I see? With a well-formulated cleanser, your skin will look and act healthier, feel smoother, and be ready to receive maximum benefits from your other products.
Toner (Step 2)
What is this for? A well-formulated toner smoothes, softens, and calms skin, while removing the last traces of makeup. It also adds vital skin-repairing ingredients after cleansing.
Why do I need this? Toners with skin-repairing ingredients hydrate and replenish the skin’s surface immediately after cleansing. They also help reduce redness and dry patches.
What results will I see? With a well-formulated toner, your skin will feel softer and look smoother, and redness will be reduced. Those with oily skin will see smaller pores. Daily use will give your skin what it needs to function in a younger, healthier way.
AHA or BHA Exfoliant (Step 3)
What is this for? A leave-on AHA or BHA exfoliant gently removes built-up dead skin cells, revealing new skin. AHAs exfoliate the surface of skin and bind moisture; BHA exfoliates the surface of skin and inside the pores as it reduces redness.
Why do I need this? Sun damage causes the surface of the skin to become abnormally thick. Acne and oily skin complicate this further. Exfoliating eliminates this buildup, which otherwise would cause clogged pores, uneven skin tone, dullness, and deeper wrinkles.
What results will I see? Overnight your skin will look radiant, smoother, and younger (really)! Daily exfoliation with a well-formulated AHA or BHA exfoliant will unclog pores, reduce redness, blackheads,* and breakouts, diminish wrinkles, build collagen, and improve uneven skin tone.*BHA is best for blackheads.
Acne Treatment (Step 4, if needed)
What is this for? After exfoliating with an AHA or BHA exfoliant, an acne treatment with benzoyl peroxide kills acne-causing bacteria and helps reduce redness.
Why do I need this? When acne is your concern, research shows that topical treatment with benzoyl peroxide is an essential step for achieving clear skin.
What results will I see? With consistent use of a well-formulated, non-drying acne treatment, you’ll see fewer breakouts and a reduction in large, red, swollen blemishes. Your acne will be reduced, possibly eliminated.
Skin-Lightening Treatment (Step 4, if needed; Step 5, if you’re using an acne treatment)
What is this for? Used at least once daily, skin lighteners gradually reduce, and in some cases eliminate, brown spots and discolorations from sun damage or hormonal influences.
Why do I need this? Using a skin-lightening product reduces the over-production of melanin, the skin pigment that causes brown spots and discolorations.
What results will I see? After 8–12 weeks of daily use, you’ll see discolorations fade or even disappear completely. Your skin tone will be more even and radiant. Ongoing use is needed to maintain results.
Serum (Step 4, if you’re not using an acne treatment or skin lightener; otherwise, those go on first)
What is this for? Applied morning and evening, serums filled with antioxidants and other anti-aging ingredients protect your skin from environmental damage, including sun damage* and pollution.*When used with a sunscreen.
Why do I need this? Well-formulated serums with antioxidants improve your skin in numerous ways, from reducing redness to stimulating healthy collagen production for firmer skin and fewer wrinkles.
