you’ll be in the Douro wine region (p. 372), another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
DAY 13
9am: Drive south from Guimarães, stopping in the lovely riverside town of Amarante (p. 365) to check out the Renaissance church of São Gonçalo.
Noon: Continue the precipitous decline to the big river. At Mesão Frio you’ll see the Douro winding its way through a distinctive landscape of terraced hills covered with grapevines. Follow the winding riverbank until Peso da Régua (p. 376), where you can have lunch and discover the secrets of winemaking at the Museu do Douro museum (p. 376).
3pm: Cross the bridge to the south bank and visit the town of Lamego (p. 369), with its remarkable mountaintop church, before overnighting in one of the wine estates or wine-themed hotels, where you can sample the nectars without having to worry about driving.
DAY 14
9am: Hopefully your head is clear in the morning, because you will start with a twisting drive along the N-222 (p. 371) riverside road, which has been called the world’s most scenic route. There are also plenty of wineries to visit along the way.
Noon: Make a short detour to visit the charming wine village of Pinhão (p. 370) before rejoining the N-222 as it climbs through the heart of the wine region—stopping to enjoy tastings at the estates you pass.
3pm: Vila Nova de Foz Côa is the last UNESCO site on the tour, with its prehistoric rock carvings (p. 377) that date back more than 20,000 years. This is a chance to get up close and personal with some of humanity’s earliest art, both at the riverside sites and in the excellent museum that’s an architectural landmark in its own right.
SouthErn Portugal for 2 Weeks
An alternative to heading north out of Lisbon would be to discover the attractions of mainland Portugal’s two southernmost regions, the Alentejo and the Algarve. They are very different. The Alentejo, taking up a third of the country, is mostly rolling farmland broken up by occasional hill ranges. Amid vineyards, olive groves, and forests of cork oak are some of the country’s best-preserved historic towns and villages, painted white to reflect the sun which pushes summer temperatures over 40°C (100°F). The Algarve is separated from the rest of the country by a range of scrub-covered hills running east-west. It enjoys a Mediterranean-style climate where almond and citrus trees thrive. The beaches on the sheltered southern coast are among Portugal’s biggest draws for visitors.
On this tour by car, we’re assuming you’ll want to spend some time chilling on those beaches, so we’ve have spaced out the sightseeing accordingly.
Days 1, 2 & 3
Follow the Lisbon schedule at the start of “Lisbon & Around in 1 Week,” above.
Days 4 & 5: Comporta
Heading south out of Lisbon, you cross the red-painted Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge high above the River Tagus toward the outstretched arms of the Cristo Rei statue (p. 188) on the south bank. It’s less than an hour to the handsome town of Alcácer do Sal on the banks of the River Sado. Whitewashed Alcácer is an ancient center for rice production. It’s surmounted by a convent wrapped in a castle that’s now a luxurious hotel overlooking the rice fields. Spend a couple of hours there before joining the sun-worshipers on the fine sandy beaches 30 minutes farther west. The beaches curve south for almost 60km (40 miles) from the headland of Tróia to the fishing port of Sines. The village of Comporta and its beaches have become the “in” place for Lisbonites (and international celebrities) to escape for the weekend. If you have the cash, bed down at rustic-chic Sublime Comporta resort.
Days 6, 7 & 8: Lagos & the Western Algarve
To get to the Algarve, it will take you 2 hours down the A2 toll highway. Head to Lagos (p. 249), the best town in the western Algarve, which you’ll make your base for the next 3 nights.
Day 6: Explore the town that was the center for Portugal’s 15th-century voyages of discovery. The old town lies within the walls that once protected it from pirates. It retains its charm, although Lagos’ popularity with a youthful surfer crowd means it’s hopping on summer nights. Lagos is surrounded by beaches, quiet coves among honey-colored cliffs, curving dune-backed strands, and deep blue lagoons.
Day 7: Drive out to the headland fortress of Sagres (p. 255), Europe’s southwestern tip, where Prince Henry the Navigator established his headquarters for launching the Discoveries. It is a wild atmospheric space. Try to be there for the spectacular sunsets. North of Sagres are some of Europe’s best surf beaches.
Day 8: Drive inland through orange groves to spend the morning in the former Moorish capital of Silves (p. 241) with its mighty medieval fortress. After lunch, head south to the coast. In the tiny cove of Benagil you can pick up a skiff that will take you to amazing sea caves carved into the sandstone and the beach at Praia da Marinha, arguably the most beautiful in Portugal.
Days 9 & 10: Tavira & the Eastern Algarve
Slow down and relax. The eastern Algarve, close to the border with Spain’s Andalusia region, is known as the Sotavento, meaning “sheltered from the wind”—in contrast to the breezy west. Beaches here, many of them on long, sandbar islands, are tranquil and have warmer water. Tavira (p. 227) is a sweet town, with manor houses lining the banks of the Gilão River and streets filled with restaurants and cafes. There are plenty of good places to stay here and excellent beaches to explore. Be sure to take a boat tour in the marshy Ria Formosa reserve, a magnate for birdwatchers.
Day 11: Mértola
Before leaving the Algarve coast, look in on Vila Real de Santo António (p. 232), a border town built after the 1755 earthquake, which is a rare example of 18th-century town planning. Then head north following the River Guadiana for about an hour to Mértola (p. 290), one of Portugal’s most beautiful villages. Strung out on the crest of a ridge, its white houses and crenellated battlements are perfectly reflected in the river’s still blue waters. This was once the capital of an Arab emirate and a busy medieval trading hub. Its parish church is one of the few in Portugal that still clearly shows the signs that it was once a mosque.
South for 2 Weeks of Culture & the Coast
Days
