sizzle, and Lisboetas leave on vacation. June is a party month when Lisbon city celebrates its patron, Saint Anthony. It’s great for atmosphere with street parties and open air concerts on warm evenings, but not ideal if you seek peace and quiet. Winter is calmer, when hotels are cheaper, temperatures cool (January averages 12°C/53°F), and cultural programs are in full swing in museums and theaters. April and May are many people’s favorites as the weather warms and markets fill with strawberries and juicy loquats, but they can be showery. September and October see the city still warm and fizzing with energy after the summer break.
Arriving
By Plane Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport (www.aeroportolisboa.pt;
The current airport is conveniently just 6.5km (4 miles) from the heart of the city. A cheap and easy way to the center is the Aerobus (www.aerobus.pt;
The airport Metro station is part of the red line, connecting with central Lisbon in Alameda (green line), Saldanha (yellow line), or São Sebastião (blue line) stations. A single journey costs 1.40€ plus 0.50€ for the reusable Viva Viagem Card (p. 73).
Taxi passengers line up outside the Arrivals hall. The parking lot in front of Departures is the place to meet drivers from Uber or other ride hailing firms. Taxi fares to downtown should be around 15€, with supplements at night and an extra 1.60€ for each piece of luggage. Watch the meter, because taxi drivers frequently try to hike prices for unsuspecting visitors.
By Train Lisbon’s few international train connections (p. 467) arrive at the Oriente station in Parque das Nações and Santa Apolónia close to Alfama. Both are on the metro and have taxi ranks. Mainline trains to Porto and the north also depart from there. Trains from the Algarve and Alentejo arrive at the Sete Rios and Entrecampos stations. Bookings on domestic routes can be made on the website of CP (www.cp.pt) the national rail company, which also has details of fares, routes, and timetables
By Bus Intercity domestic and international buses (p. 468 and 471) terminate at the Terminal Rodoviário de Sete Rios (www.rede-expressos.pt;
By Car If you are arriving by car (p. 466), try to avoid rush hour when there are a number of bottlenecks, notably on the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge. If you can, book accommodation with private parking, because parking lots are expensive, street parking is limited, and foreign-registered cars left overnight in downtown streets are a preferred target for thieves looking for valuables inside.
Visitor Information
The official Lisbon Tourism Association (www.visitlisboa.com) has 13 “Ask Me Lisboa” information points around the city, including on Praça do Comércio (
City Layout & Neighborhoods
Lisbon is the westernmost capital of continental Europe. Atlantic beaches start a 20-minute train ride away from downtown. It’s spread out along the north bank of the Tagus, the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula, where it broadens into an estuary almost 20km (12 miles) wide before narrowing again just before it reaches the ocean. Like Rome, Lisbon is built on seven hills, but as the city spread it took in more rises and valleys. That makes walking tough on the calves but easy on the eye, as you discover more and more viewpoints over the city and the river. Here’s a pick of Lisbon’s most interesting neighborhoods.
Baixa The city’s downtown core, Baixa was laid out in a grid of rectangular blocks after the earthquake of 1755. It’s bookended by two plazas: Praça do Comércio, whose arcaded government offices and sidewalk cafes open out onto the Tagus; and Rossio (officially Praça de D. Pedro IV) the city’s favorite meeting place, featuring waves of black-and-white paving, the National Theater, fountains, and a towering column in honor of King Pedro. The lattice of busy streets running between them is a unique example of 18th-century town planning and a major shopping hub. Although tourist-oriented stores are increasingly taking over, it’s still packed with enchanting curiosities: from generations-old stores selling buttons and ribbons to grocers backed with strings of spicy sausage and bags of aromatic coffee, and splendid old cafes like Confeitaria Nacional (p. 106). The grandest, most harmonious (and most touristy) street is pedestrianized Rua Augusta, which ends in a triumphal arch leading into Praça do Comércio. Among the Baixa’s curiosities are the Elevador de Santa Justa (p. 105) and the fire-damaged Igreja de São Domingos church. Praça da Figueira is another fine square with interesting stores and cafes.
Alfama, Sé & Castelo Immediately east of Baixa is the hill where Lisbon began. It’s crowned by Castelo São Jorge and the medieval lanes of the Castelo neighborhood that surrounds it. They contain some fine hotels and the Fundação Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva, a living museum with artisans’ workshops. On the slope leading up to the castle, the Sé neighborhood takes its name from the fortress like 12th-century Cathedral (Sé). It’s traversed by the famed Tram 28 line along a street lined with antique and handicraft shops. At its foot, Campo das Cebolas is a plaza lined with cafes, restaurants, and historic facades like Casa dos Bicos. Next door, Alfama is Lisbon’s most characteristic district. Its steeply winding streets are the spiritual home of fado music and, although fast gentrifying, it remains highly atmospheric. Among Alfama’s many churches, grand São Vicente de Fora contains wonderful azulejos, and Santa Engrácia holds the tombs of Portugal’s great and good. Both have sweeping river vistas from their rooftops, but Alfama’s best view is from Largo Portas de Sol—especially if you get (or stay) up for sunrise.
Chiado, Bairro Alto & prÍncipe Real
