Frommer's Portugal. Paul Ames

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Frommer's Portugal - Paul Ames Complete Guide

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& Chiado

      Expensive

      Rua das Flores, 44. www.martinhal.com. 21/850-77-88. 37 units. 244€–650€ studios and apartments. Metro: Baixa-Chiado. Private parking 25€ for 24 hours, reservation required. Amenities: Restaurant; kid’s club; indoor play room; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

      Memmo Príncipe Real Lisbon’s second Memmo hotel maintains the group’s high standards. It blends into the hillside down a tiny lane leading out of one of Lisbon’s trendiest neighborhoods. Breathtaking views, elegant contemporary design in local limestone and painted tiles, and specially commissioned artworks. All rooms have Bang & Olufsen TVs and Hermes toiletries. Some have balconies overlooking the city and outdoor fireplaces. The stylish restaurant has modern Portuguese cuisine with influences from Asia, Brazil, and Africa.

      Rua D. Pedro V, 56 J. www.memmohotels.com. 21/901-68-00. 41 units. 270€–554€ doubles. Tram 24. Paid parking 30€ daily. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

      Pousada de Lisboa This flagship addition to the Pousada chain of historic inns occupies a strategic location on riverside Praça do Comércio, in the heart of downtown. The sturdy, pastel-painted building is typical of the Pombaline style and was once Portugal’s Interior Ministry. Its interior is filled with artworks and artifacts, including a number of works by the abstract painter Nadir Afonso. After decades of neglect, a 9€-million restoration program transformed the regal building into a first-class downtown accommodation. It has an indoor pool, a fine steak restaurant, and made-in-Portugal Castelbel toiletries in marble bathrooms. Orchids on the breakfast tables are a nice touch.

      Praça do Comércio, 31-34. www.pousadas.pt/pt/hotel/pousada-lisboa. 21/040-76-40. 90 units. 233€–429€ doubles. Metro: Terreiro do Paço. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor swimming pool; spa; gym; massage service; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

      Verride Palácio Santa Catarina Opened in 2017, this restored palace was an immediate success. Madonna reportedly loved it so much she wanted it for her Lisbon home. Robert De Niro and the Queen of Belgium were also among early guests. Built in the 1750s, the palace occupies a skyline-dominating site and one of the city’s best viewpoints. Marvel at the marble archways, stucco ceilings and panels of antique tiles, all clustered around a monumental 18th-century staircase. On the roof, the pool and fashionable bar/restaurant offer jaw-dropping, 360-degree views. If you can afford it, the huge royal suites are decked out in lemon-yellow silk and stucco work like piped cream. It’s grand, but the ambience is relaxed and unstuffy. Glorious floral arrangements are the work of the part-owner Dutch flower merchant.

      Rua de Santa Catarina, 1. www.verridesc.pt. 21/157-30-55. 19 units. 299€–1,000€ doubles; 850€–3,000€ suites. Tram: 28. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; sun terrace; library; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

      Moderate

      Casa Baltazar This classy bed-and-breakfast is a secret hideaway in the heart of the city. It’s located in a discreet townhouse owned by the same family since 1882. They also own the Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon’s oldest (and arguably best) pastry shop, which guarantees a treat at breakfast time. Rooms blend modern art with antique furnishings. The best have private terraces with hot tubs and panoramic views over the Baixa and St. George’s Castle. It’s a 2-minute walk from Rossio square or the Carmo ruins. There’s a secret garden with lawn, loungers, and pool. Inside, a cozy lounge comes with honesty bar, art books, and quirky ceramics.

      Rua do Duque, 26. www.casabalthazarlisbon.com. 91/708-55-68. 19 units. 160€–350€ doubles; 195€–340€ suites. Tram: 24. Free parking (reservation required). Adults only. Amenities: Heated outdoor pool; sun terrace; garden; Jacuzzi; bar; free Wi-Fi.

      Lisbon Accommodations

      Casa do Barão The “Baron’s House,” an aristocratic residence built after the 1755 earthquake, is now a friendly, family-run bed-and-breakfast, a haven in a quiet side street just off the bustle of Chiado. Rooms are spacious and white-painted with soft drapes, period prints, and marble bathrooms. Some are decorated with Bordallo Pinheiro ceramics. The top suites and rooms have private terraces and spectacular views. There’s a courtyard pool, and you can breakfast in a secret garden filled with tropical vegetation. Complimentary port and muscatel wines await in the library.

      Rua da Emenda, 84. www.casadobarao.com. 96/794-41-43. 12 units. 105€–290€ doubles; 260€–390€ suites. Tram: 28. Public parking nearby. Adults only. Amenities: Bar; outdoor swimming pool, garden; free Wi-Fi.

      Hotel do Chiado Occupying the two upper floors of a building restored by Pritzker Prize–winning Álvaro Siza Vieira after fire ravaged many of the Chiado’s historic stores in 1988, Hotel do Chiado has a hard-to-beat location. Top-floor rooms have private lawns offering amazing views over the city and river. You can also admire the vista over cocktails on the terrace of the rooftop bar amid blooming bougainvillea and wildflowers. Rooms are comfortably sized and furnished in modern-classic style with sober natural tones, and they’re just an elevator ride from the designer stores and centuries-old shops below.

      International Design Hotel

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