the floor-to-ceiling windows of the bar or the private balconies in suites and superior rooms, guests enjoy unique views over Rossio square, Lisbon’s favorite meeting spot for centuries. Opened in the 1920s, the hotel received a total makeover in 2009. The exterior features creamy columns, lilac walls, and intricate wrought-iron railings. Inside it’s hyper-hip, with modern art and colorful design features. Rooms are decorated according to Pop, Tribal, Urban, or Zen themes. The second-floor Bastardo restaurant is a favorite for Lisbon trendsetters.
LX Boutique Hotel Once the emblematic Hotel Braganza, a hang-out for Lisbon’s 19th-century literary set: it features prominently in José Saramago’s novel The Year of the Death of Ricardo Reis. Reborn in 2010 as this cool boutique hotel, the LX maintains a historic ambience behind the sky-blue exterior. Each floor is themed—one is dedicated to poet Fernando Pessoa, another to fado music, with rooms featuring photos of guitars and singers. Interiors have bold colors, stripes, and floral prints. Standard rooms are rather small, but gain in size, light, and river views as you get higher up. The ground floor has a restaurant renowned for sushi, although for breakfast it serves goodies from the nearby Tartine bakery. For better or worse, the hotel is smack in the middle of Lisbon’s nightlife action.
The Independente This cool operator combines a hip hostel offering bargain bunks with elegantly bohemian rooms and suites. The hostel and four suites are set in the artfully decorated Belle Époque former home of the Swiss ambassador; 18 more suites fill in the palace next door. The location is hard to beat, overlooking one of the best panoramic views, on the edge of Bairro Alto nightlife and the chic shopping zones of Príncipe Real and Chiado. In mixed and single-gender dorms for 6, 9, or 12, furniture is Nordic minimal, the cotton sheets crisp and clean. There’s a spacious kitchen and a light-filled lounge hosting movie nights and occasional live music. Separately, they offer private rooms and suites offering a taste of offbeat luxury. There are two excellent restaurants on site, including The Insolito on the roof. The group has recently opened an offshoot, The Indy, in the fast upcoming Intendente quarter.
Rua S. Pedro de Alcântara 81. www.theindependente.pt. 21/346-13-81. 33 units. 94€–234€ double; 10€–34€ dorm bunks. Tram 24. Amenities: Bar; 2 restaurants; free Wi-Fi.
My Story Tejo The hotel reception greets guests with a funky mix of bare brick and contemporary wood and glass. This youthful hotel is just a short walk from Rossio. It was made by combining two smaller hotels in a building that contains the remains of a Roman wall and Pombaline arches. Rooms are simple but comfortable with modern pine furniture, soft-wool blankets, and white cotton sheets. They are a bit on the small side (taller guests should take care if they take an attic room) but many have high windows and balconies facing the bustling street, and some have castle views.
Rua dos Condes de Monsanto, 2. www.mystoryhotels.com. 21-886-6182. 130 units. Doubles: 87€–254€. Metro: Rossio. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi.
Sunset Destination Hostel Downtown accommodation with a riverside rooftop pool for less than 20€ a night? Sounds impossible? Well if you don’t mind bunking down in a dorm, it’s perfectly feasible here. One of Lisbon’s premium hostels is perfectly located for exploring downtown, hitting the nightlight hotspots, and escaping to the beach. It’s located upstairs from the Cais do Sodré station, where trains depart along the coast to Cascais. There are electronic lockers, a funky design featuring French comic strip art, bikes to hire, surf school trips, and other activities. All in an Art Deco gem of a building within staggering distance of the bars on Pink Street. Double rooms with private bathrooms are available.
Praça do Duque de Terceira. www.sunset-destination-hostel.lisbon-hotel.org. 21/099-77-35. 20 units. 53€–125€ double; 19€–46€ dorm. Metro: Cais do Sodré. Amenities: Bar; outdoor pool (Apr–Sept); sun terrace; shared kitchen; lockers; free Wi-Fi.
Alfama & East of Center
Expensive
Palacete Chafariz d’el Rei Between Alfama and the river, this theatrical oddity was built by a coffee tycoon in a turn-of-the-20th-century style known as Brazilian Nouveau. A 2-year restoration respects the hotel’s heritage, with stucco ceilings, polychrome tiled floors, and tropical plants. Rooms are spacious, overflowing with crystal chandeliers, hardwood antiques, and velvety drapes. The terrace garden filled with flowering plants is a delight for taking afternoon tea.
Travessa Chafariz del Rei 6. www.chafarizdelrei.com. 21/888-61-50. 6 units. 263€–580€ suites. Metro: Terreiro do Paco. Amenities: Garden; terrace; library; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.
Palácio Belmonte There are hotels with history, and then there is the Palácio Belmonte. The Romans built one of the towers, and another two were erected over a thousand years ago when the Arabs ruled Lisbon. The noble palace chambers linking them together were constructed in the 15th century and once were home to the family of explorer Pedro Álvares Cabral, who led the first European expedition to Brazil. The current French owner invested 26€-million into turning the palace into an ultra-luxurious hotel with 10 suites. Each is unique and furnished with original antiques, and most have fabulous views. There are bathrooms clad in rare gray marble with walk-in showers, sunken baths, and their own panoramic vistas. One tower-topping bedroom boasts 360-degree views high above the city; others have private terraces where you can take your organic, freshly prepared breakfast. The walled garden has luxuriant vegetation, a swimming pool, and a waterfall. Walls are coated with more than 3,000 18th-century tiles. The French restaurant is a gourmet treat. There’s a minimum 2-night stay, but you’ll want more.
the floor-to-ceiling windows of the bar or the private balconies in suites and superior rooms, guests enjoy unique views over Rossio square, Lisbon’s favorite meeting spot for centuries. Opened in the 1920s, the hotel received a total makeover in 2009. The exterior features creamy columns, lilac walls, and intricate wrought-iron railings. Inside it’s hyper-hip, with modern art and colorful design features. Rooms are decorated according to Pop, Tribal, Urban, or Zen themes. The second-floor Bastardo restaurant is a favorite for Lisbon trendsetters.
