then turned his attention to clothing and equipment. He knew how to travel light, and unless going to extreme locations, the same range of gear suited most conditions in most places. The key was to dress in layers, adding or taking off when wind and temperatures changed. The gear he used in the southern Andes in late Summer and early Autumn would be similar for Australia’s Outback Winter. He packed his favourite pair of charcoal-coloured hiking shorts, two pairs of khaki long pants that zippered off at the knees to convert to shorts, one pair of running tights for extra cold days, and high quality walking boots with vibram soles and leather uppers for easy cleaning. Also, two vests and tee-shirts, two long-sleeved shirts, a rainproof, waist-length red and green jacket, and a thin but tough orange plastic poncho to cover body and backpack if caught in the rain, was all he needed.
Rob’s other gear was just as important, especially because he would be recording at Rock Art sites. He made sure his still camera and camcorder were clean and ready to shoot vast and varied landscapes, sunsets and sunrises, time-lapse star trails and engraved and painted images on stone surfaces. He checked all batteries, made sure he had the correct adaptors for Australia’s 240 volt electricity supply, finally double-checking his laptop which he used for emailing and storing files of research notes.
Clara had projects on the go but arranged some time off so they could be together before departure day. Rob particularly wanted to see the Hayden Planetarium again and because it was close to Central Park they planned to combine the two venues.
Occupying a part of the American Museum of Natural History the Hayden Planetarium is a beacon for lovers of the Cosmos. Rob and Clara hailed a yellow taxi outside her apartment building, and after a direct but lengthy drive uptown, enjoyed two virtual hours beyond earth, marvelling at nebulae, galaxies and constellations that dwarf our blue planet.
They followed these spectacular journeys in the cosmic wonderland with a walk in Central Park, holding hands playfully and admiring trees and gardens that provide oxygen to a hectic and non-stop Manhattan metropolis.
At the end of the day they returned to the apartment a little tired but happy and sat together sipping a favourite wine and talking about Rob’s plans and hopes for his trip. He was excited by the prospects, yet also feeling very relaxed at this stage of the day and shared a personal story with Clara.
“I’ve had a recurring dream for years now, even once down in Tierra del Fuego. It always involves an Aboriginal elder handing me a sacred object called a tjurunga or churinga, as part of my initiation into manhood. I’ve never told anyone. You’re the first to know.”
“Thanks honey, that’s real special,” Clara said, squeezing his arm as they snuggled closer on a cosy, fashionable lounge.
“The other part is quite gruesome because the elder and other men use sharp pieces of quartz to cut lines into my chest and upper arms. It hurts like hell, but I’m not allowed to scream, and blood flows everywhere. I usually wake up when the pain really bites. But overall it’s positive, because I feel I belong.”
“That’s so powerful Rob. Is it the same elder each time?”
“His face is never clear, but I think so because his voice is always the same.”
“That helps me understand why you’ve talked so much about Aboriginal culture. You’re so deeply connected. Now I really get your excitement for the trip.”
Rob was happy and relieved that Clara fully realised how important the trip was to him. They hugged and kissed the long kiss of lovers who have just reached a new level of understanding. Clara had learned more about Rob, and he felt more deeply appreciated. Their last night together was a beautiful, intimate expression of how much closer they had become.
* * *
The next morning arrived too quickly and Clara was trying to keep the mood light-hearted as they said their farewells at John F. Kennedy International Airport.
“Does the water really flow down the plug hole the opposite way Down Under?” She asked without any enthusiasm. They had both been quiet during the taxi ride out to the airport and Rob knew that Clara was close to tears.
“As long as I’ve got enough water to drink on the expedition, I don’t care which way it goes!” Rob chuckled weakly.
They kissed and held each other tightly. Rob responded warmly but his mind was already speeding through visions of Outback landscapes, his anticipation beginning to burn inside as he added, “You know, I might even find that Aboriginal elder! Wouldn’t that be fantastic. See you later sweetheart.”
“Bye honey, take care,” Clara replied, tears now visible on her cheeks. She clung to his outstretched hand and brought it up to her lips for a final kiss.
Then he was gone. Through the main entrance of the customs section, on his way to Australia with mixed feelings about leaving Clara behind, but barely containing his excitement about the adventure that lay ahead.
2
Rob was flying from Sydney to Uluru and drifting off amidst the constant engine noise of a Qantas Boeing 737-400 cruising at 38,000 feet. After more than half the trip, endless expanses of red-brown landscape veined by network after network of dry, black watercourses dominated the view far below. Rob tried to focus on the horizon in the hazy blue distance, but his eyes closed and he slipped into another time and place.
Overnight dew had dampened the red soil that lay on the unmarked track to the sacred cave, until the first bare foot of the first man pushed gently into it. The earth was fresh and alive. He was leading a group of five fully initiated elders who had left camp early to go and prepare the sacred objects that were hidden and stored safely in a distant corner of their country. There was no well-worn track to follow because the cave was only visited about three times each year, yet these men walked as if signposts guided them. Knowing the correct direction is what western man might call “second nature”. Yet in the Aboriginal men’s reality it was “first nature”, because they and the trees, the rocks and the tracks, seen and unseen, were all One. They also lived in the Now, or Present, a challenging concept for most modern urbanised people.
The custodians’ walk to the cave coincided with the coming Full Moon, a common indicator for certain ceremonies including some initiations. They had names for a dull moon, a bright moon, a crescent moon, and the Full Moon was called ‘Taye impanke’ by the Western Aranda people. The moon and the planets, in fact the entire Cosmos had always offered them rich worlds of story and creation.
The traditional countries of the Aranda clans were defined in the most ancient days, in the Dreamtime or Beginning when Ancestral Beings created whole worlds of nature, people, and the laws by which they lived. From an enormous black sky bursting with galaxies and legends, including the starry campfires of departed brothers and sisters, traditional men, women and children were given meaning for daily life. They upheld their Ancestral laws, passing them on to each successive generation by spoken word and rhythmical dance.
The senior men were getting closer to the secret location. Even though it was early morning the heat was rising fast, and the temperature was already well above half of the maximum it would climb to later. They kept to the shade of the trees where possible and moved quietly and purposefully. Nearing the cave the five men stopped without any signal from the leader. He then held up both hands with palms upturned and spoke aloud, alerting the Ancestor Spirits that they were approaching...
Rob opened his eyes as if he had just woken from a dreamy sleep. The landscape below looked the same and there was no change either in the constant engine sound. The dream-like vision had seemed so
