in two and a half days we’re off. As you know, it’s to Yuendumu first up the Tanami Track, on to Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing, then across to Broome. After the old pearling town we take on the Gibb River Road and eventually reach Kununurra and Timber Creek. Then we’ll head south into the VRD. Our co-leader actually rediscovered a lot of the art, and we’ll be the first group to see it.”
“That’s epic,” Rob interrupted. “How many people get that opportunity. I know it’s taken a lot of organising.”
“A couple of years Rob, so it’s very good that you were able to come back,” Hugo said genuinely. “You got the last seat, too!”
“Thanks to you. Your phone call really got me going. You must’ve known I’ve been talking to the Outback stars!” Rob winked and continued. “The Outback’s always felt close since I first came through in the ‘90s. I don’t think I need the big cities now. Oh, and I met an Aboriginal artist, we’re meeting tomorrow afternoon. I’ll tell you about it later.”
They finished their coffee, agreed to ‘go dutch’ with the bill for old time’s sake, then as they stood up Hugo added...
“I’m so pleased you’ve made it, and you’re looking well too. We’re all in the same Resort, so that makes it easy. Let’s talk tomorrow, but if you’re coming to Ewaninga we’re meeting for breakfast at eight in the dining room and departing about nine.”
“Sounds good. It’s fantastic to be here,” Rob smiled, shaking Hugo’s hand. “Seeya later.” He was so happy to link up with Hugo and the Rock Art group after so much anticipation and his long flight.
* * *
Rob planned to watch sunset from a rocky hill near the Resort, but as the afternoon unfolded, the western sky turned dark blue. Threatening storm clouds built up and rapidly approached Alice Springs. Jagged shafts of bolt lightning struck the countryside and thunder rumbled loud and long. This type of storm usually occurred in Summer so its abrupt arrival on a Winter’s day was surprising. Suddenly an unusual thought popped into Rob’s mind. Could its spectacular show be a sign from the Universe that meeting the Elder was an auspicious event? Rob had read enough about traditional Aboriginal life to know that unexplained things happened, but he was not sure if this was one of them.
* * *
On the following morning Hugo, Rob and the group drove to Ewaninga Conservation Reserve on a rusty red dirt road, firm and dust-free after the previous night’s heavy showers. At the site they found hundreds of symbols pecked into large slabs of tan-brown sandstone, and the marked walking track presented opportunities for close-up viewing and photography. The atmosphere was still, there was no one else around and everything seemed straight forward until Hugo gestured to the group to come close, saying precisely and without introduction.
“This site embodies a mystery!”
Everyone standing around him eagerly focused on his next words.
“Even though Ewaninga’s been studied for years, the petroglyphs have never been explained publicly. Senior custodians hold the knowledge of these rock carvings but will not reveal their meaning because it would be too dangerous!”
An instant buzz of conversation swept around the group, but Hugo, not wanting to answer any questions, said with a chuckle.
“Let’s talk about it later, around a campfire under the stars somewhere.”
This site visit was just a warm-up for the big Rock Art trip ahead, but already the group had been confronted with a puzzle. For Rob it came soon after his unusual thoughts about the Universe and the unseasonal storm, so he made a written note then finished his video recording and photography. Then he and the group returned to the Resort with an ancient, yet modern-day mystery fresh in their minds.
A brisk morning of about six degrees Celsius had become 24 degrees after lunch, as group members set out on foot to explore the famous town. Some walked through the sandy Todd River bed, others took the road bridge, all eventually meeting at Ghost Gums Bar & Grill for dinner. Later that afternoon was also the time when Rob and the Elder were to meet on Anzac Hill, and the natural atmosphere was changing.
* * *
The stormy, windy weather of the previous day had flung up a sky of long, wispy clouds, and thin beams of sunlight caught and coloured their tails a rich, burnt orange. The men had not arranged a time to meet but despite neither of them wearing a watch, they arrived at the bottom of Anzac Hill on Wills Terrace at the same time. As they walked up the track the elongated clouds brightened into a deep, desert red, becoming light-hearted scarves on a fading blue sky. Such colour promised another warm day in Central Australia. Sunset would not linger this afternoon because of Winter, so as soon as they made it to the top and were sitting on a wide seat facing the MacDonnell Ranges, the Elder asked an unexpected question.
“Do you know what tjurunga or churinga are?”
A little surprised by the subject matter, because he did know, Rob answered.
“They’re sacred objects that link individuals to their Ancestors in spirit, and are only brought out at special times, like initiation ceremonies.”
The Western Aranda elder nodded approvingly and seemed to confirm by the dancing light in his eyes that the right man had come. The Universe as usual was on course and on time!
Rob was encouraged by the comfortable energy and continued.
“I’ve been interested in sacred tjurunga for years without telling anyone. In England I visited a Museum and was shown small, wooden tjurunga and bullroarers with similar markings. I was in the basement wearing white gloves so the physical condition of each artefact wouldn’t be damaged. Yet I was holding an object representing the spiritual link of a traditional man to the source of his life! What a privilege, but I didn’t fully realise it. I couldn’t interpret the incised designs, but I’ve been researching tjurunga quietly ever since.”
Rob paused as he reflected on that episode, and the Elder commented straight away.
“Your intentions had integrity and Ancestor Spirits were watching. Handling the objects respectfully opened a deeper window to culture.”
Rob nodded thoughtfully as the Elder added historical perspective.
“In early contact times some whitefellas who stole, or collected sacred objects as they called it, didn’t know what they were handling. But others did and removed our objects like conquerors. They weren’t interested in the ceremonial life of “primitive natives”. They only wanted curios of their adventures in the new British colonies in the South Seas.”
Yet despite blatant disregard for Aboriginal cultures and the violence perpetrated against them for generations, the Elder believed positive changes in attitudes were growing across the world.
“Many more are becoming aware and learning that Aboriginal groups have the spiritual connections to the land, sea and sky that they want to experience. They realise that traditional cultures offer valuable perspectives about life and nature.”
Then the Elder turned and looked directly at Rob.
“You’ve travelled conscious spiritual paths for many lifetimes and returned to an old home. You’ve come back to receive information because the Ancestors know you can help reveal it to an awakening world. That’s why we’ve met. That’s why I said
