there...” Rob offered in a friendly manner as he walked in.
Inside the stone-floored gallery, an older Aboriginal man was showing paintings to a young woman at the tile-topped counter.
“Morning, howya going,” the manager replied, as both she and the artist greeted him with a smile and nod of the head.
The Aboriginal artist was talking about his works and they caught Rob’s eye. The major local contemporary style was dot painting, but these were different. They were landscapes of Central Australia, true-to-life watercolours with ghost gums, distant purple hills and rugged rocky outcrops, evoking the Outback perfectly. Rob was familiar with this classic style because he owned several similar paintings, so he walked closer and commented.
“I love those colours, that clarity of light, the aura around the gum trees. They’re beautiful. I feel at home just looking at them.”
Rob felt comfortable in saying this to the Aboriginal artist and the older man turned to him and warmly acknowledged the compliment.
“Thanks. Thanks brother. I’m happy you’ve come.”
Rob sensed something deeper about the greeting and also responded warmly.
“My name’s Rob, I hope we can talk about your paintings while I’m in town.”
“I’m Lindsay, but most call me ‘Uncle’ or ‘the Elder.’ Have you come far?”
“Yeah, from New York, but I’m Aussie.”
“Good. Welcome. Let’s catch up after I finish.”
As well as dark jeans, leather riding boots and a long-sleeved flannelette shirt, patterned with small red and blue squares, the artist wore a fawn-coloured Akubra hat. The hand-made band was decorated with very small painted dots, and a solid silver heart about the size of a thumb nail was attached to its left side. Like any good hat, it became the man, and because of contrast, his grey sideburns looked even more distinguished.
The Elder and manager continued their discussion while Rob started to explore the Gallery, but after only fifteen minutes the Elder approached Rob and caught his eye.
“Thanks for waiting. Let’s go if you’re ready...”
They walked out of the Aboriginal Red Ochre Gallery, crossed Todd Street and sat down on short green grass in the shade of a tall, white-trunked eucalyptus tree. Taking off his hat and placing it on the ground, the Elder said...
“Welcome to Mparntwe or Mbantua, the Arrernte or Aranda name for Alice Springs. My full name’s Lindsay Williams and I was born in Western Aranda country. Do you know Albert Namatjira? He was a Western Aranda man.”
“Yeah, of course,” Rob smiled confidently. “The first Aboriginal person to paint Outback landscapes with watercolours back in the 1930s, 40s and 50s.”
“Uncle Albert was gifted,” the Elder added. “He showed city people our country’s real heart and spirit for the first time. And even met the Queen.”
“Yeah, he was the best.” Rob continued. “Isn’t there a permanent exhibition of his paintings in town?”
“It’s up at Araluen. Try and see it if you can.”
“I will for sure,” Rob confirmed, then asked, “What about your art?”
“I’ve been doing watercolours on and off for forty years. Started by myself with an uncle’s help, but now there’s a mob of us who love the style and want to keep the tradition going. Like Albert I’m from out near Hermannsburg, the old Lutheran Church Mission. We call it Ntaria and it’s about 125kms west on a good bitumen road. Do you know that country?”
“Yeah, in a way. Central Australia always feels familiar,” Rob replied.
“Albert’s also honoured by Namatjira Drive. It branches off Larapinta Drive heading west and provides access to the superb gorges of the West Macs. You’d love it.”
“Maybe I can get out there,” Rob said, adding: “Do you do other work?”
“I’m a senior lecturer at the Faculty of Aboriginal Development, or FAD, so I live in town these days. It’s connected to the Northern Territory University in Darwin. Have you heard of it?”
“No, but it sounds interesting,” Rob replied.
“I’ve got to get back to the office soon, but we must talk again while you’re in town. I can meet late tomorrow afternoon on Anzac Hill (Atnelkentyarliweke) – there’s a great view of country in all directions.”
“I’d love to,” Rob said. “But I’ll have to say ‘Anzac Hill’ because your name’s too hard!”
“I know what you mean. Our languages are very difficult. I’m an old timer and I still prefer the spelling Aranda because people can pronounce it when they see it.”
“Okay, I’ll do the same. And thanks so much for the invite. I’ll be there.”
They got to their feet and shook hands, and Rob walked away quickly to the Heart of Australia Resort across a road bridge over the Todd River, shaking his head happily. He knew instinctively that Lindsay from Western Aranda country was the Aboriginal elder he’d been hoping to find for years. And suddenly it had happened.
The meeting was inspiring for the Elder too. As he walked steadily back to his faculty office he acknowledged within that Rob had come at precisely the right time. With insight as clear as the blue skies of his watercolours he knew Rob would gain important knowledge and be guided on a journey of discovery.
* * *
Earlier that morning at the Resort Rob picked up a message from Dr Hugo Ableford, leader of the Rock Art group, expressing his wish to discuss the expedition. The plan was to meet at a restaurant in an arcade off Todd Mall, so Rob wrote a quick note saying “See you there” and left it at Reception. Both men were looking forward to catching up in person because they had not seen each other since Rob flew to London three years earlier.
“Great to see you. How’s New York?” Hugo asked, raising his eyebrows in anticipation as they warmly shook hands.
“Wonderful. So much energy in one corner of the planet. Who knows how it all keeps going.” Rob replied. “Now I’m back, I’d much rather be here. The Centre does something for me.” He added with understatement.
The two men had met for lunch at The Desert Oak which offered more international cuisine than local bush tucker, but all was homemade and delicious. Rob ordered Thai fish cakes, rice balls with cheese in the middle and green salad, while Hugo selected a wholesome chicken and vegetable soup served with hot multi-grain bread rolls and butter.
They took it in turns to catch up with each other’s activities of the past few years, and after finishing their tasty food, Hugo told Rob the Rock Art group’s plans.
“In the morning we’re going out on a good dirt road to the Ewaninga site. Do you know it? There’s hundreds of well-preserved petroglyphs in a protected area, and we’ll be back by one or two o’clock. There’s ten in the group and most want to go shopping and have a look around town. You’re welcome to come.”
