– when it comes to closures there are so many options that there is a whole chapter of this book devoted to them – see Closures. Your bag can be closed with several different types of zip insertions, a magnetic or invisible magnetic snap or a twist lock. A flap such as this one may also secure the bag closed, or be additional to a zip or snap closure. Mix and match closures for maximum versatility and functionality.
• Gusset – the design of the gusset often determines the capacity of your bag, as well as its silhouette. Gussets can be straight, have pleats or bellows, or even be adjustable using snaps or ties (see Gussets).
• Strap/handle – there are so many ways to carry your bag off in style that there is a whole chapter covering straps and handles – see Handles and Straps. Choose handles that match the look and usability of your bag. Make your own or use convenient ready-made handles (see Ready-Made Handles).
• Strap attachment – consider how the strap or handle is attached to your bag. There are numerous options, from stitching the strap directly onto the bag, to using fabric handle loops with metal rings (see Open-End Straps and Closed-End Straps), essential if making an adjustable sliding strap. Some straps can be attached permanently or others can be made with trigger hooks to allow them to be detached, either to transform the bag into a clutch, or to swap the handle for a different one to give a new look.
Just around the corner
• Bag bottom – most bags beyond the simplest book bag will have some kind of bottom. Some will have a soft unstructured bottom, while others need a rigid, structured kind. If it’s the latter, you may also want to add protective bag feet (see The Multi-Tasking Tote, step 13). The right bottom can make all the difference to how a bag will sit on a surface and how it looks when full.
• Bag back – remember to give the back of your bag consideration too; if it’s rubbing against your body as you carry it, then it needs to be streamlined and free of anything such as hardware or trimmings that will catch on your clothes or be damaged themselves. However it can also the perfect place for a secret, secure and easy-access slimline pocket, maybe flush and zippered (see Flush Zip Pocket).
What’s inside counts
• The inside of the bag – this is equally important as the outside and needs to be given just as much care and attention. The lining is a chance to add lots of design features, from fabric choice (see Choosing Fabrics) to the use of pockets and dividers for more organization (see Flush Zip Pocket and Zip Partition Pocket). Joining the bag exterior to the lining is a fundamental part of the bag construction process, and there are two different methods to try, depending on the design of your bag (see Inserting Linings: Drop-In Method and Inserting Linings: Pull Through and Turn Out Method).
1: Getting Started
If you’re anything like me you’re probably keen to get stuck in with the scissors and sewing machine, and might be too impatient to read through this chapter. I totally understand, but even a quick read through the basics explained here could make all the difference between a bag that you will love and a bag that will end up at the back of a cupboard. This chapter runs through how to use the patterns in the book, giving advice on reading patterns and understanding sewing instructions, with some helpful fabric preparation and cutting tips. Then at the end of this chapter you’ll find information on how you can modify the size of bag patterns, which is one of the first steps to making bags the way you want them.
Using Patterns
The patterns, found at the back of the book, are all full-size, which means there is no need to hunt around the neighbourhood for a photocopier. Some of the bag projects have two or more pattern pieces (which are indicated on the pattern pieces), others have just one pattern piece and some projects simply use rectangles given as measurements within the project instructions.
1 Get a large sheet of suitable paper. I usually use pale tissue paper, but you can also use tracing paper, greaseproof paper or dressmaking paper. Iron the paper and the pattern sheet on a low setting.
2 Lay the paper over your chosen pattern piece and, using pins or sticky tape, secure the paper to the pattern so that it can’t move around.
3 Take a soft leaded pencil (you don’t want to rip holes in your paper with a hard pencil) and trace around your pattern shape. Also trace the various pattern markings, notches and darts if appropriate (see Understanding Patterns). See Fig a.
Fig a Use a soft leaded pencil to trace the patterns and pattern markings to get nice easy-to-see outlines, and you’ll avoid ripping the tracing paper.
4 Lay out your traced pattern pieces onto your fabric. Align your pattern with the fabric’s straight grain (see grain lines). If the pattern piece instructs you to place it on a fold, fold your fabric as shown in Fig b. Pay attention to the direction of your pattern – are the pattern pieces the right way up? Accordingly, is the pattern on your fabric also the right way up?
5 Pin your pattern pieces to your fabric and cut the fabric around the pattern shapes. See Fig c. Alternatively, you can pin your patterns to your fabric and then trace around the outline of your pattern pieces with disappearing marker or chalk to get an outline for fabric cutting. However, before you do any cutting, make sure you refer to Fabric Cutting Tips.
6 Transfer any pattern markings, notches or darts from the pattern piece to your fabric pieces using chalk or disappearing marker. See Fig d.
Fig b To place a pattern piece on a fold, fold the fabric wrong sides together and position the fold line of the pattern onto the folded edge of the fabric.
Fig c I prefer to pin and cut around the pattern pieces because it’s faster than tracing around the pattern and then cutting.
