Stitch the pleat insert panel to the main body panel – take the pleat insert panel WSU, fold in both long edges 1cm (3⁄8in) to the WS and iron the folds. Lay the pleat insert panel RSU down the centre of the RS of the main body panel and match up the raw short edges. Pin and stitch the pleat insert panel to the main body panel by topstitching along both long edges of the pleat insert panel 3mm (1⁄8in) from the edge. See Fig d1. Fold the bag along the long edges of the pleat insert, iron the folds and topstitch the folds in place 3mm (1⁄8in) from the edge on the main body fabric side. See Fig d2. Stitch along both short edges of the main body panel with a zigzag stitch that’s wide in width and short in length to prevent the raw edges from fraying.
Fig d1 Check that the pleat insert panel is perfectly central down the entire length of the main body panel.
Fig d2 Topstitching the pleat edge in this way will ensure the pleats remain permanently folded along the sides.
2 Fold and stitch the pleat into the bag – at the top edge of the bag find the centre of the pleat insert panel and mark. Bring both side edges of the pleat insert into the centre mark, fold and iron in place. Stitch the pleats in place along the top edge with a 5mm (3⁄16in) seam allowance. On the RS of the bag measure and mark 2.5cm (1in) down from the pleat top edge. Stitch a 5mm (3⁄16in) line of zigzag stitches (in forward and reverse) to anchor the pleats on the front of the bag. See Fig e. Repeat for the other side.
Fig e Stitch a dense line of zigzag stitches to anchor the pleats. Try using contrasting thread for added interest.
3 Stitch the bag – following steps 2–3 of the Easy as Pie bag.
4 Fold and stitch the top edge band – with the bag still WSO fold down the raw top edge of the bag 2cm (3⁄4in) to the WS and iron the fold. Topstitch all around the top and bottom edge of the bag band 3mm (1⁄8in) from the edges. Turn the bag RSO and iron.
5 Make and apply the bag straps – following step 5 of the Easy as Pie bag.
Right For maximum effect use an insert fabric that contrasts with the main fabric for real ‘pop’!
2: Choosing Fabrics
Fabric is colour, texture, picture and pattern just waiting to be mixed up, cut up and stitched up into something amazing. The first part of this chapter explores different types of fabrics suitable for bag making, then suggests fabric sources, and finally looks at ways of working with colour, pattern and texture. The second part of the chapter talks about interfacing and interlining (also known as stabilizer). Mysterious and boring in equal measure, interfacing/interlining is nonetheless an essential component in bag making. We’ll look at varieties of interfacing and interlinings and their applications, but first here are some of my tried-and-tested fabric and interfacing combinations for use in commonly made bag types.
Above There is something so gorgeously addictive about fabric. Collecting it is as much fun as sewing with it. Seeing my own fabric stash neatly stacked in colourful bundles gives me a warm happy feeling inside!
| Bag Type and Description | Bag Fabric Suggestions | Interfacing/Interlining |
| Messenger bag: soft structure, mid to large size shoulder bag. | Denim, linen, canvas, corduroy, upholstery/home dec weight fabrics with mid-weight cotton lining. | Woven fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and sew-in fleece/wadding in between lining and exterior. |
| Firm boxy clutch or medium large boxy bag: firm and can stand upright. | Quilt-weight cotton, satin or silk, faux or real suede or leather with silk or satin lining. | Medium fusible interfacing on all exterior parts then ultra-firm interfacing fused to exterior fabric with fleece sewn in between the lining and exterior. |
| Travel bag/large hold-all or padded laptop bag: boxy and upright. | Upholstery/home dec weight canvas, denim, heavy wool, corduroy, heavy velvet with quilt-weight cotton lining. | Firm fusible interfacing on all exterior parts, fleece and ultra-firm sew-in interlining in between lining and exterior. |
| Travel bag or large hold-all: soft and slouchy. | Upholstery/home dec weight canvas, corduroy, denim, heavy wool, heavy velvet with quilt-weight cotton lining. | Woven fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and fleece sewn in between lining and exterior. |
| Small or large hobo shoulder/across the body bag: soft and unstructured. | Quilt-weight cotton, heavy satin, upholstery/home dec weight canvas, denim, heavy wool, heavy velvet with quilt-weight cotton lining. | Woven fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and fleece sewn in between lining and exterior. |
| Bi/tri fold wallet: firm and semi-rigid. | Quilt-weight cotton, linen, canvas, denim with quilt-weight cotton lining. | Woven fusible interfacing and ultra-firm fusible interfacing on all exterior parts, and heavy sew-in interlining in between lining and exterior. |
| Jewellery/artist’s/craft tool/make-up brush roll: soft, unstructured and padded. | Quilt-weight cotton, linen, canvas, heavy satin with satin/quilt-weight cotton lining. | Medium fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and fleece sewn in between the lining and exterior. |
| Zippered wristlet purse, pencil case: soft, unstructured and lightly padded. | Quilt-weight cotton, heavy satin, upholstery/home dec weight, denim, heavy wool, heavy velvet with quilt-weight cotton lining. | Woven fusible interfacing on all exterior parts and heavy sew-in interlining in between lining and exterior. |
Feeling good …
If you’re not familiar with some of the fabric types and weights mentioned above, pop along to a fabric shop and have a good see and feel for yourself. Alternatively, many companies online supply samples free or for a small charge. It’s worth getting to know how fabrics feel and handle.
Fabric Types
