projects. Always iron your fabrics thoroughly before pattern cutting.
Fabric cutting tips
• Always cut on a flat surface and clear the decks before you get cutting.
• Speed things up by ironing fusible interfacing (if using) to the wrong side of fabrics before cutting out, see Fig b. See also Interfacing and Interlining.
• Always use sharp scissors or a sharp rotary cutter for cutting out your fabrics. This will ensure that you get clean and accurate cuts every time. If you are using a rotary cutter ensure that you cut on a rotary cutting mat. See Fig c.
• Follow the grain lines on your patterns to ensure that fabric designs don’t appear wonky.
• Try laying the fabrics and interlining pieces carefully on top of each other and then laying the pattern pieces on the top before pinning all layers and cutting. See Fig d. However, if your stacked up layers are too tall you will end up with very scruffy edges and your scissors won’t be happy at having to cut through all of those layers. If this is the case, try layering your lining and exterior fabrics together and cutting, and then layer your interlinings together and cutting.
• If using fabrics with a directional pattern and you are layering your fabrics before cutting (as suggested above) be sure to check that your fabrics are the right way up. You don’t want to end up with fabric pattern pieces with designs that are upside down.
Fig b Wherever possible iron fusible interfacing (if using) onto the WS of fabrics before pattern cutting. This saves the bother of having to match up and iron an interfacing pattern piece to the fabric pattern piece.
Fig c A rotary cutter makes cutting straight edges so much faster and neater. If you have a steady hand, a rotary cutter is great for curved edges too. Always use a rotary cutting mat – they not only protect your table, they also help keep the blade sharper for longer.
Fig d Another pattern cutting time-saving trick is to stack and pin the fabric and interfacing pieces on top of each other before cutting.
Modifying Patterns
If you are a sewing ‘newbie’ the thought of deviating from a pattern may seem like a crazy thing to do, but it’s actually very easy to make pattern modifications to suit you (or your outfit!). In their simplest form, bags are a front, a back and a couple of handles. But you can jazz up even a basic bag by changing its size, adding a pocket, inserting a zip or a snap, changing the handles or adding a couple of darts for volume, for example. Below you will find guidance on changing the size of the bag as the first step to modifying a pattern, but the rest of this book will show you how to change everything else – so read on. Because bag making is less complicated than dressmaking you’ll find that it’s far more forgiving if you haven’t quite got the measurements 100 per cent right. In fact, half the fun of bag making is that you can often make it up as you go along. I do it all the time!
Increasing the size
• First decide how much larger you would like your finished bag to be. Take that measurement, divide it in half and add that halved measurement all around the edge of the bag pattern piece(s). Say, for example, you want your finished bag to be 10cm (4in) larger overall; you would add a 5cm (2in) margin all around the outside of the bag pattern piece(s). Always remember to add on your seam allowance if you haven’t already.
• NB If your pattern piece is marked with a ‘place on fold’ instruction you will need to add your margin around all pattern edges except the edge where you are instructed to ‘place on fold’.
Decreasing the size
• First decide how much smaller you would like your finished bag to be. Take that measurement, divide it in half and subtract that halved measurement from all around the edge of the bag pattern piece(s). Say, for example, you want your finished bag to be 10cm (4in) smaller overall; you would subtract a 5cm (2in) margin from all around the inside of the bag pattern piece(s), remembering to include your seam allowance if you haven’t already.
• NB If your pattern piece is marked with a ‘place on fold’ instruction you will need to subtract your margin from around all pattern edges except the edge where you are instructed to ‘place on fold’.
Make it…The Versatile Book Bag
Here we have three different versions of a basic book bag shape. I bet you can’t stop at one! Master these simple totes and with the help of this book you’ll soon be adding your own cool features like zip pockets, darts and fancy fasteners.
Easy as Pie Pretty fabrics really lift the basic design of this bag.
Flat-Bottomed Girl It’s quick and easy to pop a flat bottom into a bag, and your bag will look that bit more professional.
Peek-a-Boo Pleats Insert a bright fabric into the pleat to make eye-catching peek-a-boo pleats.
Need to know
As these bags are unlined you might prefer to use fabrics that are the same colour on both sides (self-coloured) such as canvas or linen.
All seam allowances are 1cm (3⁄8in) unless stated otherwise.
There are no patterns for these bags as all you need are fabric rectangles. Fabric measurements are given in the instructions.
Easy as Pie & Flat-bottomed girl
The super handy easy-as-pie tote bag is about as basic as can be but that’s no reason for it not to look pretty. Whip up a few in under an hour for emergency presents. Jazz them up by playing with your fabric choices, use posh handles, or try adding a fabric flower. Our flat-bottomed girl is
