you have a sloping garden, you have the choice of scrambling about and just hoping that you do not slip, or you can build steps. Apart from being a good, practical solution, steps also function as a decorative feature that leads the eye from one level to another.
Calculations
Good, comfortable steps need to have risers at about 6–7 in (15–18 cm) high, with treads that measure 12–16 in (30–40 cm) from front to back.
Construction and materials
While there are lots of options – brick, stone, ties, wood, and many more beside – some materials are easier to use than others. For example, a mix of brick and stone is a good choice – the bricks are just right for the risers, and the stone can be sized to suit the depth of the treads.
A flight of steps leading from a path up to a patio. To a great extent, the whole flight is supported on the concrete foundation that runs under the bottom step.
STEP OPTIONS
Log and gravel steps are a good option for a country garden, as they are quick to create.
These corner steps in a path have been made from square paving slabs and bricks.
PATH AND STEP PROBLEM-SOLVING
Soft, sloping ground This flight of brick steps, with concrete over stone and gravel under every tread, is a good option for soft, damp ground. The extra- thick layer of stone and gravel and the pipe under the bottom step help to spread the load and drain off the water.
Boggy ground A simple pole walkway is a good option for boggy ground. The poles are supported on posts or piles – the damper the ground, the longer the piles required. If you are worried about slipping, you could also include a handrail, as here.
Existing concrete steps The best way of sorting out an ugly flight of concrete steps is to cover them with brick. All you do is leave the concrete in place and lay bricks over the treads. The remaining bits of concrete – the risers – can be stained or painted.
PATH CONSTRUCTION
For straight paths, use materials such as paving slabs and concrete pavers which will not need cutting and trimming. These are also best used on flat surfaces. Conversely, for a meandering path on sloping ground, choose crazy paving. Natural stone is also a possibility, but is more expensive. Because plants are often planted in the spaces between pieces of natural stone, do not use a spade to clear snow and ice away, nor put salt on the path.
LAYING PAVING SLABS
Pre-cast paving slabs are ideal for creating a firm, all-weather surface. They can be used on their own or combined with other materials, such as bricks, to create decorative patterns.
1. Prepare the area of the path by removing topsoil and adding a 4 in (10 cm) thick layer of compacted filler.
2. Spread and level a 2–3 in (5–7.5 cm) thick layer of coarse sand over the compacted filler.
3. Mark on the sand the area of the first slab and place five blobs of mortar on it – one in each corner and one in the center.
4. Carefully place a paving slab in position and check that it has a gentle slope so that surface water drains away.
5. Position the next slab and check its slope. If the slabs have straight edges, place ½ in (12 mm) thick spaces between them.
6. When the mortar is hard, remove the spaces and fill the joints with a stiff, dry, weak mortar mix (see below).
When filling joints
When filling gaps between paving slabs, take care that the mixture does not go on top of them, as it leaves marks. Instead, line the edges with masking tape; then use a stiff, dry, weak mortar mixture to fill the gaps. Tamp this level, to just below the surfaces of the slabs.
Cutting paving slabs
It is often necessary to cut paving slabs. Professionals use powered cutters (angle-grinders), but home gardeners can use a bolster (type of cold chisel) and a club hammer. Wear goggles and strong gloves and score a line on the slab (all edges and sides). Then, using the bolster and club hammer, work around the slab, several times. When complete, place the slab on a board, so that the scored line is positioned above its edge. Use the wooden handle of a club hammer to knock the slab sharply so it breaks along the line.
Cutting concrete brick pavers
Unless a squared pattern (see right) is used to lay pavers, cutting is essential. This can be done by using a bolster chisel and club hammer in the same way as for paving slabs (see above, right); when laying a large patio it is better to rent a wet saw. Don’t forget to wear goggles and strong gloves.
LAYING CONCRETE PAVERS
Also known as “flexible” pavers, they gain this name because they are laid on a bed of coarse sand and can, if necessary, later be lifted and relaid. They are about the size of house bricks and ideal for straight paths. Crazy paving is better for curved paths.
1. Mark out the area of the path, remove topsoil and install 6 in (15 cm) deep side constraints. These are vital to hold the sand and bricks in place.
2. Spread and firm a 3 in (7.5 cm) thick layer of filler over the base.
3. Spread a 2 in (5 cm) thick layer of coarse sand over the filler. Select a 6 in (15 cm) deep piece of wood; cut notches at the ends so that when drawn over the sand it leaves the surface the thick ness of the paver, minus ⅜ in (9 mm), below the top of the sides.
4. Place the pavers on the sand in the desired pattern (see here).
5. Compact the pavers by placing a flat piece of wood on the surface and repeatedly tapping it with a club hammer.
6. Brush coarse sand over the surface, then again compact the pavers. Repeat this, then water the surface with a fine-rosed watering can.
