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CONSTRUCTING A GRAVEL PATH
Gravel paths have a relaxing ambience, yet can be either formal or informal depending on the edging. Strong side constraints are essential. Provide these with concrete slabs or strong wood.
1. Dig out the area of the path, 4 in (10 cm) deep and 3–4 ft (90 cm–1.2 m) wide. Ensure that the path is dug out to an even depth, especially along its edges.
2. Position concrete side constraints, 3 ft (90 cm) long, 2 in (5 cm) thick and 6 in (15 cm) deep. Use a spirit level to check that the sides are level. Cement them in place.
3. When the side constraints are firm and cannot be moved, use a sledge hammer or club hammer to break up large bricks to form an even base. Do not dislodge the side constraints.
4. Spread gravel over the rubble, so that its surface is about 1 in (2.5 cm) below the side constraints. Use a short piece of stout wood or a metal garden rake.
Stepping trunks!
Gravel paths can be made more attractive by letting sections of wide tree trunks into them. A piece of wire netting secured on top of each slice prevents them becoming slippery.
CONTRUCTING A CRAZY-PAVING PATH
1. Use strings to mark the position and width of the path. Dig out topsoil to 6 in (15 cm) deep; install side constraints.
2. Form a 2 in (5 cm) thick layer of compacted filler; then 1 ½ in (36 mm) of coarse sand.
3. Spread mortar over the sand and lay straight-edged pieces of crazy-paving along the sides, about 3 ½ ft (1 m) at a time.
4. Fill the center with irregularly shaped pieces
5. Fill cracks with mortar.
LAYING A NATURAL STONE PATH
Natural stone forms attractive paths. Use strings to mark the path’s area and dig out topsoil. Add filler, then 2 in (5 cm) of coarse sand. Because of its uneven thickness, natural stone is more difficult to lay than crazy paving. Lay the stones on blobs of mortar. Dig out sand and filler from some of the larger joints, and fill with soil- based compost. Later, small, prostrate plants can be put in them.
PATTERNS FOR PAVERS
Complex patterns are best left to professional constructors. Several bonds are simple to create, including running and basketweave.
Before deciding the path’s width, lay out pavers on a flat surface to the desired pattern. The width of the path can then be tailored to suit this measurement, thereby avoiding any unnecessary cutting of pavers.
Basketweave bond
Running bond (crosswise)
Running bond (lengthwise)
Herringbone bond
Squared bond
Simple bond with cross pavers
LIGHTING
Garden illumination – whether on patios, in borders, among trees or around ornamental ponds as well as submerged – has gained in popularity, and in return for the initial cost and subsequent maintenance makes a garden and patio more attractive and usable over a longer period each day. Additionally, autumn-colored deciduous trees and frost-covered stems during winter can be highlighted. For barbecue enthusiasts, patio lighting is essential.
Are garden lights worth installing?
ON PATIOS
The edges of patios and terraces can be transformed by low spotlights as well as column types. Also, where a table is present a light that illuminates it is useful for late-evening relaxation. Avoid having cables suspended randomly over a patio.
IN BORDERS
Throughout summer and into autumn, borders of all types – packed solely with herbaceous perennials or a medley of types – benefit from illumination. Flowers and colored leaves can be given added qualities by lights positioned looking down on plants. Additionally, a few lights within a border create attractive shadows.
AROUND PONDS
Whether a garden pond is integrated with a patio or featured in a lawn setting, it will be enhanced by a few strategically placed lights. If a waterfall or cascade feeds water into it, these too can be illuminated. Fountains, with their wide and varying range of spray patterns, are also enhanced.
IN PONDS
Submerged lighting – sometimes colored in red, green, amber or blue – adds a fresh and often novel quality to ornamental ponds. Some lighting equipment creates a rainbow of changing light. Ensure that the equipment is safely installed.
FLOODLIGHTING TREES AND SHRUBS
Wall- and post-mounted lights create light over a large area, while low- powered colored lights in a continuous line of up to 40 lamps are possible for stringing between trees. For many gardens, however, a few white spotlights focused upwards and into branches have more appeal.
Ornamental lights are ideal for patios and terraces.
Safety first
Electricity and water are not happy partners and all electrical installations need to be checked over or installed
