Architectural Plants. Christine Shaw
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Very little annual maintenance is needed, apart from removing the occasional older brown frond. Cut these right back into the plant so the cut end isn’t visible, using secateurs. Pests and diseases are rarely a problem, especially if grown outdoors. The most important thing to worry about is the watering. Too much will lead to rotting; too little will cause the fronds to shrivel. Rainwater is preferred, particularly if you live in a hard water area.
Grasses are currently enjoying immense popularity, but few could really be described as architectural because of their poor winter performance, with many of them turning a horrid brown colour as soon as autumn approaches. However, the grasses selected for this chapter are definitely architectural.
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Cyperus papyrus is an essential addition to a large conservatory.
The following grasses are nearly all evergreen, thus creating a year-round presence wherever they are planted. They are all striking in some way, for example, Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ with its jet-black foliage or Cyperus papyrus with its tall stalks topped with huge fluffy tufts of flowers. And let’s not forget an old favourite, Cortaderia selloana, the lovely Pampas Grass that for years has been snootily ignored but, at last, is enjoying new fame as gardeners once again start to appreciate its stately appearance.
The two non-evergreen grasses featured are here because, despite their lack of winter appeal, the statuesque quality of Arundo donax and the shapely outline of Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’ are just too wonderful to overlook. Their stunning good looks during three quarters of the year are compensation enough to earn their inclusion.
The grasses in this chapter have a wide range of shapes and sizes, from the diminutive Acorus gramineus ‘Variegata’ to the decorous Cortaderia richardii. Their cultural requirements vary hugely too, from the water-loving Cyperus alternifolius to the unfussy Luzula sylvatica ‘Marginata’.
One thing these grasses do all have in common is their ease of propagation. All of them grow as clump-forming plants and all can be divided up at almost any stage of maturity. The smaller grasses can have their clumps teased apart by hand. Some will need the help of a sharp knife and some with heftier root systems will need the assistance of a strong spade to chop through each section. The propagation of grasses is more down to brute force than expertise, and even novice gardeners are capable of achieving successful results.
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Cyperus alternifolius is a dainty grass, ideal for growing in and around ponds and streams.
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Cortaderia selloana is the famous Pampas Crass familiar to many gardeners.
Apart from the Cyperus grasses, all of the plants described here are fully hardy, capable of coping with temperatures down to -20°C (-4°F). So, almost any gardener can take advantage of their beauty, especially as their hardiness is combined with a robust nature and ability to cope with hostile conditions. Their individual requirements are discussed in each plant entry, but it will be noted that many can cope with exposed and windy conditions, making them good choices for gardens near the coast and for those on open hilltops. This group of plants is far more forgiving than their close relatives, the bamboos.
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Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’ looks and sounds wonderful as the breeze swishes through it.
Grasses are the perfect group of plants for beginners, although experts appreciate their fine qualities too.
Grasses can fit in with many different kinds of planting schemes. The larger grasses look splendid enough planted as single specimens to spice up unexciting borders or to act as a soft backdrop to other plants. The smaller ones will look good anywhere in the garden, but avoid dotting just single specimens around.
The smaller grasses look far better, more noticeable, more effective and more dramatic if they are planted in drifts or large groups. In a small space, five of the same species of plant look a hundred times more natural and pleasing to the eye than one each of five different species, which can give a bitty and undisciplined look to a garden.
The maintenance of most grasses is easy too, providing their individual needs have been catered for, and most are happy with a light annual dressing of blood, fish and bone in early spring. Older clumps can become a bit tatty and tired-looking after a few years. If this happens, they can be rejuvenated quite easily. Many can be hacked back to ground level with a sharp pair of shears in the autumn or early spring. This may sound a drastic thing to do, but you will be rewarded by a vigorous burst of new fresh foliage as soon as the new growing season commences. By the end of the season, a completely new clump will have formed. The remaining bases of the old foliage will, by this time, have dried out and gathered as a brown thatch throughout the bottom of the new leaves. This can be teased out by hand to keep everything looking fresh and tidy.
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Luzula sylvatica ‘Marginata’ has a very forgiving nature, making it a good choice for beginners.
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A pretty little grass for ponds or boggy areas.
For those gardeners who like their plants neat, tidy and compact, this tiny Japanese grass would fit the bill admirably. It reaches no more than about 25cm (10in) in height. It grows in fan-shaped sections, consisting of many individual blades of grass closely packed together. Gradually, these clumps bulk up and spread quite slowly to cover a distance of around 60cm (2ft) across. Each of these sections can be removed at any time of the year and used for propagation.
The grassy leaf blades are vertically striped with green and pale cream. The variegation is pleasantly subtle and, unlike many coloured-leaved plants, is not at all offensive to look at. Mature plants sometimes produce flowers, particularly during very warm weather. These are long and narrow and can be quite difficult to see, as they are the same colour as the cream bits on the foliage.
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