Architectural Plants. Christine Shaw

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Architectural Plants - Christine  Shaw

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for any moist or boggy spot in the garden. It loves moisture so much that it is even quite happy in a shallow pond, and makes a useful aquatic addition to water features and streams. It is fully evergreen and as attractive in winter as it is in summer. As it is very slow-growing, it could be grown in a pot for the first few years of its life, but remembering to water it virtually every day could become too much of a chore. This grass is too small to be grown as a single specimen and needs to be in larger groups for maximum impact.

      Full sun will give the best colouring, but light shade is quite acceptable. It will grow in any soil, but rich loam would give the best results. It must always be kept moist – it is almost impossible to overwater. Remove any older leaves as they turn brown. Apart from the odd aphid, this plant is usually trouble-free.

      A word of warning: if this plant is being purchased with the intention of planting it near a pond or stream containing fish, check with the nursery as to what compost it has been grown in. Many nurseries mix a nasty chemical called Suscon Green into the soil. This is to kill vine weevils, which can be a real problem for plants grown in pots, but it will also harm other wildlife, so take care to wash the existing soil from the roots and repot the plant into something safer.

      image Arundo donax

       Spanish Reed

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      The large canes of Arundo donax make a fantastic sound in windy weather.

      A huge grass that looks a bit like sugar cane. It can grow to 4m (13ft) tall and has thick canes a good 3cm (1in) in diameter. The long, narrow blue-green leaves can be up to 60cm (2ft) long. It is probably the most dramatic inhabitant of the grass world that can be grown in temperate climates. Its energy goes into producing height, rather than width, and it is quite slow to bulk up enough to form a decent-sized clump. Unless you’re very patient, plant at least three of these grasses together to speed up the effect.

      The flowers are pale creamy brown, feathery plumes. They are a lovely bonus to growing this grass, but they seem to appear only on plants in warmer European countries such as Spain or Italy, where they are widespread.

      Arundo donax is very hardy and is especially useful in coastal areas. Despite its stature, it can stand up to sea winds extremely well and, in a strong breeze, the leaves whip around the canes making a wonderful noise. It is a good choice for planting as a windbreak in exposed seaside gardens.

      A variegated form is often available with pale cream stripes along the leaves. This is less hardy than the straight green form and reaches only 2.2m (7ft) in height. It is even slower to form decent-sized clumps than its green counterpart, and should therefore be planted in more generous groupings.

      Plant in rich, moist soil for the fastest growth, although any soil would suffice. It is happy in either sun or shade, but the variegated form prefers more sun to keep the colouring brighter. Moisture is the main requirement, and watering should be done regularly for the first couple of seasons after planting. After this time, Arundo donax is quite capable of fending for itself, and feeding and watering can be dispensed with. Generally, this grass will grow almost anywhere. It is often seen in water-filled ditches and along riverbanks throughout Europe. But, it can also cope with the other extreme, tolerating sun-baked clay soil without much of a problem.

      If the soil is very poor and growth is unsatisfactory, apply a good helping of blood, fish and bone in the spring. Well-rotted manure will also help speed up the growth rate. Very little maintenance is required, apart from the removal of any brown leaves as they appear.

      During the winter, the leaves turn brown and two choices can be made. Either cut the whole lot down to ground level, from where it will start to regrow in spring, quickly reaching its full height again in one season. Or, strip the foliage from the stems, to leave just the bare canes. This latter method has two advantages. Firstly, the space that the plants occupy won’t be completely empty in the winter, and lots of bare stems are definitely much more attractive than a gap in the planting scheme. Secondly, during the following growing season, new canes will not only emerge from ground level, but side shoots from the old canes will also sprout, making an even bushier clump.

      Pests and diseases are not usually a problem. Propagation can be done by dividing up existing clumps with a spade, by stem cuttings grown in water or from fresh seed.

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      In warmer climates, the flowery plumes of Arundo donax soar above the foliage.

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      The variegated version is smaller and less hardy.

      image Cortaderia richardii

       Toe-Toe

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      Cortaderia richardii is a brilliant plant for coastal gardens.

      This gorgeous grass is similar in many ways to the well-known Pampas Grass. But, instead of originating from South America, it hails from New Zealand, hence its Maori common name of toe-toe, which is actually pronounced ‘toy-toy’.

      Masses of long, grassy blades form great heaps of foliage that eventually reach dimensions of around 1.5m (5ft) in height and the same size across. Each blade is slightly serrated along the edges, enough to cause some discomfort if grabbed and pulled through your hands as you walk by. During the winter, this plant stays much greener than many grasses, making it highly attractive for the entire year.

      The plumes of grassy flowers are also similar to the more familiar Pampas Grass, but those on this grass are sent up during mid-summer instead of early autumn. They are shorter and a much nicer colour – a kind of bronzy-beige. They are lovely and fluffy, and can be cut off for using in dried flower arrangements, where they look good for many months until they start to gather dust.

      Cortaderia richardii is a very easy plant to cultivate. It is largely unfussy, although it hates being in the shade. It makes a good coastal plant, as salty winds do not seem to cause any harm. However, it stays much tidier if grown tucked out of the way from the. strongest sea breezes. Good light levels are required – the more sunshine, the better. Most soils are fine, although the very best results will be from rich, moist loam. If the soil is very poor, enrich it annually in spring with a large dollop of well-rotted manure.

      Moist conditions are preferred but, once established, much drier conditions can be tolerated, and watering is usually necessary only if the summer is excessively rain-free. Water regularly for its first season after planting until the roots have settled in.

      Remove any old brown leaves and cut off the flower spikes when they become scruffy. Chop these off with secateurs as low as you can reach down into the centre of the plant.

      Pests and diseases do not often cause any problems. Propagation can be by division or

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