Italian Cotton, 20–21; Bulliet, Cotton, Climate, and Camels, 40; Chaudhuri, “Organisation,” 75.
53
Mahatma Gandhi, The Indian Cotton Textile Industry: Its Past, Present and Future (Calcutta: G. N. Mitra, 1930), 6.
54
Цит. по: Henry Lee, The Vegetable Lamb of Tartary: A Curious Fable of the Cotton Plant (London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle, & Rivington, 1887), 5.
55
Mann, Cotton Trade, 5; Oppel, Die Baumwolle, 39; см.: экспонаты в Museu Textil i d’Indumentaria, Barcelona, Spain.
56
То, что крестоносцы играли решающую роль в представлении отрасли хлопкового текстиля в Европе, подтверждается Baumwolle, словарной единицей в Lexikon des Mittelalters, vol. 1 (Munich: Artemis Verlag, 1980), 1670.
57
Alfred P. Wadsworth and Julia De Lacy Mann, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, 1600–1780 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1931), 15; Mazzaoui, “Cotton Industry,” 263; Ashtor, “Venetian Cotton,” 677.
58
На протяжении двенадцатого века производство хлопка возникло в таких местах, как южная Франция, Каталония, и, наиболее заметно, в Северной Италии. См.: Mazzaoui, “Cotton Industry,” 268; Wescher, “Die Baumwolle,” 1643, 1644; Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 114.
59
Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 64, 66, 69; Mazzaoui, “Cotton Industry,” 271, 273, 276; Wescher, “Die Baumwolle,” 1643.
60
Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 7, 29, 63; Mazzaoui, “Cotton Industry,” 265.
61
Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 53; Ashtor, “Venetian Cotton,” 675, 697; Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 35; Ashtor, “Venetian Cotton,” 676.
62
Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 65–66, 74–82; Angela Lakwete, Inventing the Cotton Gin: Machine and Myth in Antebellum America (Baltimore: John Hopkins University Press, 2005), 11–12; Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 74–82, 89; Mazzaoui, “Cotton Industry,” 274, 275; Bohnsack, Spinnen und Weben, 65–66, 37, 63, 67, 114, 115; см.: Karl-Heinz Ludwig, “Spinnen im Mittelalter unter besonderer Berucksichtigung der Arbeiten‚ cum rota,” Technikgeschichte 57 (1990): 78; Eric Broudy, The Book ofLooms: A History of the Handloomfrom Ancient Times to the Present (Hanover, NH: Brown University Press, 1979), 102; Munro, Textiles, 8, 15.
63
Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, xi, 29.
64
Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 139, 144, 150, 152; Mazzaoui, “Cotton Industry,” 282, 284; Von Stromer, Die Grundung, 84–86; Eugen Nubling, Ulms Baumwollweberei im Mittelalter (Leipzig: Duncker & Humblot, 1890), 146.
65
Von Stromer, Die Grundung, 32; Goetz Freiherr von Poelnitz, Die Fugger (Tubingen: J. C. B. Mohr, 1981); Richard Ehrenberg, Capital and Finance in the Age of the Renaissance: A Study of the Fuggers and Their Connections, trans. H. M. Lucas (New York: Harcourt, 1928).
66
Von Stromer, Die Grundung, 1, 2, 8, 21, 128, 139, 148; Nubling, Ulms Baumwollwebe-rei, 141; Bohnsack, Spinnen und Weben, 152.
67
Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 141; Von Stromer, Die Grundung, 88.
68
Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton, 55, 54, 154; Wadsworth and Mann, Cotton Trade, 23; Inalcik, “Ottoman State,” 365; Daniel Goffman, “Izmir: From Village to Colonial Port City,” in Edhem Eldem, Daniel Goffman, and Bruce Masters, eds., The Ottoman City Between East and West: Aleppo, Izmir, and Istanbul (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1999), 79–134.
69
Nubling, Ulms Baumwollweberei, 166.
70
Я употребляю здесь термин «сеть» вместо «система» или «мировая система», так как хочу подчеркнуть неослабевающее значение локального распределения общественных, экономических и политических сил в формировании характера связей между различными частями мира. Эта идея возникла у меня под влиянием Gil J. Stein, Rethinking World-Systems: Diasporas, Colonies, and Interaction in Uruk Mesopotamia (Tucson: University of Arizona Press, 1999), 171.
71
Om Prakash, The New Cambridge History ofIndia vol. 2, European Commercial Enterprise in Pre-Colonial India, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998), 23; Surendra Gopal, Commerce and Crafts in Gujarat, 16th and 17th Centuries: A Study in the Impact ofEuropean Expansion on Precapitalist Economy (New Delhi: People’s Publishing House, 1975), 10–11, 18, 26, 28, 58.
72
Celine Cousquer, Nantes: Une capitalefrançaise des Indiennes au XVIIIe siècle (Nantes: Coiffard Editions, 2002), 17.
73
Arasaratnam, “Weavers, Merchants and Company:” The Handloom Industry in Southeastern India, 1750–90,” in Tirthankar Roy, ed., Cloth and Commerce: Textiles in Colonial India (Walnut Creek, CA: AltaMira Press, 1996), 90; James Mann, The Cotton Trade of Great Britain (London: Simpkin, Marshall & Cº, 1860), 2; Walter R. Cassels, Cotton: An Account of Its Culture in the Bombay Presidency (Bombay: Bombay Education Society’s Press, 1862), 77; Beverly Lemire, Fashion’s Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain, 1660–1800 (Oxford:
