is one of the official languages of India and is used in most official documents, on signs and announcements, and is spoken by many people. On the way to Ladakh, and in Leh, you can expect to hear at least basic English.
Ladakh has its own language. It is similar to Tibetan, but the two languages are said to be so different that Tibetans and Ladakhis living in India often prefer to use English or Hindi to communicate. Additionally, the Ladakhi language has regional differences.
In the villages on the most popular routes people who offer accommodation, run shops or manage campsites will speak some English. Guides and many horsemen are usually fluent; in remote villages, however, you will need to know a few words in Ladakhi to communicate.
Knowing a bit of the local language always helps in relations when travelling regardless of whether English is also spoken. One word that you must learn is julley, meaning ‘hello’, ‘goodbye’, as well as ‘thank you’. Some useful words and phrases are listed in Appendix C. If you want to know more get hold of a copy of the Ladakhi phrasebook (see Appendix F) that was published a few years ago and is easily available in every bookshop in Leh.
Tips on travelling in India
India has been a popular destination for years. As with many places in the world, this means that, on one hand, tourist facilities of vastly different standards are easily available; and on the other, of those people who make their living through tourism, some will, unfortunately, behave dishonestly.
Accommodation options, for example, range from a plethora of simple guesthouses with varying facilities, starting at around Rs300 per night, to five-star hotels of the famous Taj group at over Rs10,000 for a room. Generally you do not need to book rooms in guesthouses or hostels in advance. Bus tickets for long journeys can usually be arranged one day in advance; short trips can be taken on the spot. Train and bus tickets may both be booked online.
Simple restaurants (dhabas) serving local food are found everywhere. Western food is available in big towns but less so elsewhere. Although the appearance of many food places is below the standard you would accept in your home country, the food is usually good and safe. A general rule regarding restaurants is that if it is popular with locals it is good; if there is nobody in sight, find another place. Don’t eat if the food is not hot or fresh. Choose bottled or hot drinks.
Some simple precautions can save you from trouble. Use safety-pockets/moneybelts for your important documents, credit cards, and so on. Divide your money and keep it in a few different places; carry only a small amount of cash in your wallet. Never leave your luggage with a stranger, even for a moment. On a train, secure your big bag under a seat with a chain and lock, and keep a smaller bag, if you have one, with you at all times. Be wary on buses; avoid putting bags on the roof if possible. In the street or on public transport, hold your bag close and do not carry or wear anything that looks obviously valuable. Keep your camera in a bag and only get it out to take a photograph. Have your own padlock to secure your hotel room door.
Women should avoid being alone with a stranger. Try to dress a little more conservatively than you might in your home country. On a bus or train (especially an overnight journey) try to find a seat next to another woman. In the metro, choose a ladies’ carriage.
Most travellers find it hard to cope with the poverty found in India’s big cities. Every day you meet people who need help, and you will probably be tempted to do so. However, there are groups or even gangs who will try to play on your sympathy and generosity to extract money that does not always reach those in greatest need. It is not easy to deal with; and quite apart from the fact that any money you give may be diverted away from the needy, simply by giving it you will encourage begging. It is much better to encourage working! Try to support those who do by using rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws, buying from tea-sellers and shopkeepers. Choose local restaurants rather than supporting big concerns.
In Ladakh do not distribute sweets, pens and money to children, and discourage them from asking for things. None of us would like our own children to behave in a similar fashion. If you do have things for children in a village find the teacher; he or she will distribute the items to those in need. If you want to give money, think about helping locals in building a school or support an NGO; there are dozens based in Leh, and talking with locals during your trek will give you an idea of the best way of helping, and which organisations you can trust.
DRESS CODE
No Ladakhi man or woman wears shorts or crop-tops. It goes without saying that tourists, out of respect for local customs, should not wear such clothes. Although a Ladakhi would rarely point out improper dress to anybody, wearing it is considered offensive. You should wear loose clothes covering your legs and shoulders; T-shirts are fine, but strapless tops are not! No head covering is necessary, but you should wear a hat or cap as protection against the strong sunlight.
Sadly many tourists, both in Leh and the villages, disrespect these rules. You will even see visitors to monasteries wearing shorts and strapless tops. Again, no one is likely to say anything, but just because Ladakhis dislike complaining it does not mean that they don’t mind!
What to take on trek
Don’t treat the following information as a checklist, but rather as a suggested list of items that are necessary for a trekker in Ladakh. On organised treks, where much of the equipment may be supplied (and you may be given a kit list in advance) some items could be unnecessary: you will not, for example, have to worry about what type of tent to take, but are still likely to supply your own sleeping bag and possibly sleeping mat. An independent trekker, however, must always consider the weight of equipment when purchasing and working out what is essential to take.
Clothing
Regardless of the season, you will probably experience nights with temperatures near or even below 0ºC. It usually gets chilly in the evenings and the mornings are cold. Days are often hot, but it will be windy and often cold or even freezing on passes. When you get out of your tent in the early morning, you will need to put on warm trousers, a pullover and a windproof jacket, but as soon as the sun’s rays hit camp, you will want to take these off. Rain is very rare, but may last for a few hours when it comes. Snowfalls are more frequent in the higher mountains. These are not heavy in late spring, summer and autumn, but are often accompanied by wind which increases the chill factor.
Shepherds of the Kong Togpo Valley (Trek 6)
This is what I took on all my treks in Ladakh between mid-June and late October.
Cotton trousers
Polar fleece trousers
Thin, thermal T-shirt
Polar fleece T-shirt
Light polar fleece pullover
Windstopper jacket
Rain/windproof coat
Two cotton T-shirts
Underwear
Head covering for sun protection
One light and one thick polar fleece cap
Balaclava
Gloves (regardless of season)
Trekking socks (two pairs) and pair of woolly socks
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