Hemis), Shang Sumdo, Padum and Darcha. Be prepared, however, to take a few days to find someone. For other destinations it is better to arrange everything in advance, and the agencies in Leh will be happy to help. For treks in Zanskar, try contacts at www.trekzanskar.org.
Testha village on the Kargyak River, Zanskar (Trek 3); staying in villages is a great opportunity to learn about local culture
It is also possible to arrange a fully organised trek directly with a reputable agent in Ladakh. You can find a list of agents based in Leh in advance, but it is best to arrange the trek on the spot in order to ascertain exactly what is (and what is not) included. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of companies there (most offices are only open in high season), and your guesthouse staff can certainly help. If you plan to start the trek in Darcha or in Zanskar check out www.trekzanskar.org. The price depends on the service you buy (staff, equipment, food, pack animals), the route, the season and number of people in your group. Be prepared to pay at least £33 per day per person for a full package. Be aware that it may take a few days to arrange, so if you have little time organise as much as you can in advance. (Agents offering treks in Ladakh are easily found on the Internet; try to choose one run by local Ladakhi people. Check the agents on the official website of Leh District – www.leh.nic.in (under Tourism) – and on www.trekzanskar.org). Note that there will be no liability insurance cover in the event of any accident so make sure to buy a policy before leaving your home country. Double check that enough time has been allowed for acclimatisation – if you are not sure, discuss the issue with the agent. Make sure to talk about planned stages and the route before you leave, and discuss the price for an extra day in case you need one.
Overnight camp on a commercial trek: Purni village (Treks 2–4)
If you have time and are willing to forego some security and comfort arranging the trek on your own will save you some money, but usually only those who have already been to and experienced Ladakh are comfortable with this option.
Commercial trek
The vast majority of trekkers to Ladakh select this option for their first visit. Most of those with a limited time period choose to book in their own country with an established trekking outfit. Going for a fully organised trek will give you much comfort and security. Because the trekking company will supply much of the necessary camping equipment, you will not need to invest in a lot of expensive gear. There is usually a guide and a cook, as well as one or more horsemen to take care of the pack animals and do the work in camp. Horses or donkeys carry all the equipment and luggage, but you will need a medium-sized rucksack to carry your water and anything you need during the day.
One disadvantage of group trekking is that you may be hiking with fellow travellers who have underestimated the challenges and may not be in the best of spirits. However, most hikers enjoy the conviviality of like-minded fellow walkers. One other serious danger of group trekking is the possible effect of ‘peer pressure’. At its worst this can overrule common sense, with some members ignoring symptoms of altitude sickness in the unacknowledged race to compete. Do not fall into this lethal trap.
The following checklist may help you decide which company to go for:
Check what is included in the price when comparing different companies, and balance that against what equipment you will need to buy if trekking independently.
Many fully organised groups fly to Leh, although you might find a trek that starts in Darcha or even in Padum, getting there by bus or jeep.
Make sure that there would be enough time for acclimatisation; beware of trips that are very short and at high altitude.
Ask for details of the company’s insurance cover, and make sure that is broad enough.
Examine the scheduled stages, the distances and altitudes.
Note the number of people taken: the trek will probably be less enjoyable in a big group.
Compare prices, bearing in mind all these points.
Try to keep fit before the trip and follow any preparatory advice given by the tour operator.
No list of tour operators has been given in this guidebook. You may find useful advice in travel magazines and via reliable travel websites. Most of the reputable international trekking companies have trek options in Ladakh available.
THE IMPACT OF GROUP TREKKING
Many trekking companies tend to organise perhaps overly ‘luxurious’ trips and take items that may seem a nice treat, but that are not essential for the success of the trip. Think about your impact on the environment. The more items there are to be carried, the more animals are needed. More animals mean more grass to be eaten on the way, which in some cases means less grass for local villagers’ livestock. It also means more excrement on the pathway, which becomes a real problem on the most popular routes. Conversely, bigger groups mean more employment for the local people – it’s always a trade-off between economic benefit and environmental concerns.
Loaded horses at one of the many passes along the Tsarab Chu on a commercial trek (Trek 2)
You might want to check the items to be taken by your trekking agent; some may be unnecessary. The chairs and tables that most of the companies carry are comfortable. However, do you really need such comfort on a trek to 5000m-high passes? Discuss your menu too. The more factory-made food, the more rubbish. It might be nice to receive a juice carton or chocolate bar in your lunchbox every day, but wouldn’t you be fine with fresh stream water and dried fruits from a local organic food shop?
Do not litter. Arrange with the company to bring back all the rubbish that will be produced. Try to be a part of the team, not just a customer. Try to help with pitching tents and packing them, loading the pack animals and with food preparation. It will certainly enrich your experience and you will get to know more about the region and the locals.
What to bring from home
Leh has excellent shops, offering good quality trekking equipment and clothes, usually made in China. Many of the tourist agencies in the city have equipment for rent. However, some things are hard to obtain, or for other reasons it is better to bring them from home. You may also not want to spend your time shopping!
Trekking boots, socks and rucksack are going to be your closest companions on the trek – you will wear them all for hours each day – and so they should not be obtained in a rush. Buy boots and rucksack some time before the trip and test them on a few long walks at home; they must fit properly.
Setting up camp in the Kargyak Valley on an independent trek (Trek 3)
On the trek take care of your feet and avoid blisters! Take off your boots and socks whenever you stop; change wet, sweaty socks for a clean pair during the day. Do not ignore the smallest stone in your boot – stop and take it out as soon as it disturbs you. Examine your feet every evening; treat irritated
