Stage 6 Dibling to Kanji La Southern Base Camp
Stage 7 Kanji La Southern Base Camp to Kanji La Northern Base Camp
Stage 8 Kanji La Northern Base Camp to Chomotang Togpo Valley
Stage 9 Chomotang Togpo Valley to Shillakong
Stage 10 Shillakong to Lamayuru
7 Alchi: A circuit over five passes
Introduction
Stage 1 Alchi to Stakspi La Base Camp
Stage 2 Stakspi La Base Camp to Sumdha Chungun
Stage 3 Sumdha Chungun to Manechan
Stage 4 Manechan to Hinju
Stage 5 Hinju to Ursi
Stage 6 Ursi to Tar
Stage 7 Tar to Mangyu
Stage 8 Mangyu to Alchi
8 Markha Valley
Introduction
Stage 1 Spituk to Zhingchan
Stage 2 Zhingchan to camp below Kanda La
Stage 3 Camp below Kanda La to Shingo
Stage 4 Shingo to Pentse
Stage 5 Pentse to Markha
Stage 6 Markha to Hangkar
Stage 7 Hangkar to Nyimaling
Stage 8 Nyimaling to Chuskyurmo
Stage 9 Chuskyurmo to Hemis
Appendix A Treks overview table
Appendix B Stage summaries
Appendix C Some Ladakhi language words and phrases
Appendix D Glossary
Appendix E Embassies and consulates
Appendix F Further reading
PREFACE
Ursi village, and the Tar La high above (Trek 7 Stages 5–6)
My initial foray to the Himalayas was in 2000, to India and Nepal, where the Annapurna region gave me my first taste of the fascinating Himalayan Buddhist culture. I also visited the Karakoram of Pakistan. However, it was the mountains of Ladakh that drew me back to India in 2004. I was bewitched by the place, enchanted as much by the friendly, kind, hard-working and joyful people as by the tranquil landscapes and stunning vistas. Just being in Ladakh seems to bring a special peace of mind and calmness not easily found elsewhere.
I knew I would have to return again and again to experience the fabulous trekking trails, enchanting villages and magical monasteries. Trekking in the wild gorges, climbing to a high pass dusted with pristine snow, hiking under crystal-clear skies, enjoying a freshly brewed cup of tea with a stranger – these are the special qualities of Ladakh that stay in the memory forever.
To satisfy my newfound addiction I spent four months there in 2009, exploring the landscapes on foot, and covering more than 1000 kilometres. And still Ladakh draws me back! I remember leaving the region in late October 2009, at the approach of winter. As the plane took off, we flew over Spituk Gompa and then turned towards the southeast. I looked down at the passes I had and had not yet crossed, dreaming of re-walking the first and exploring the latter.
I am lucky to have had the chance to visit Ladakh a few more times since this guidebook was first published. I’ve re-trekked major parts of some routes and tested a few new options. There are some changes in the book based on this experience. January 2014 found me trying to trek in Ladakh in winter; and now, here I am again, getting ready for another winter trek!
Ladakh is changing. Roads are expanding along old trails and trekking routes. They make some places easily accessible, but they also reduce some treks or make them less enjoyable, particularly the classic Darcha–Padum and Padum–Lamayuru treks. There has also been a large increase in the number of visitors. There are more guesthouses in Leh, more cars, and a bigger impact on the environment. It is probably more important now than ever that we leave as few traces on the trail as possible, consume minimal resources and – in general – prepare our trip with consideration for the environment.
I hope this book will help you to find your own Ladakh story. I’m quite sure that once you have had one, you will want to have more. And my wish is that you will experience as much pleasure, enjoyment and fulfilment as I have in this incredible part of the world.
Radek Kucharski
December 2014
Leh, Ladakh
The impressive Shillakong canyon (Trek 6 Stage 10)
INTRODUCTION
Author’s rucksack and walking poles on the Gotunta La (Trek 2)
Situated in the far north of India, Ladakh is far more culturally and environmentally linked to Tibet than to the plains of India, Kashmir or the Indian Himalayas. But Ladakh is certainly much more than just ‘Little Tibet’, as it is frequently called. Located in the shadow of the Great Himalaya Range it is isolated from the summer monsoon rains. Like western Tibet and the adjacent former Guge Kingdom, its high elevation and low precipitation combine to create a high-altitude cold desert environment, with limited vegetation. The ethnic origin of the majority of the people is Tibetan; their language is similar to Tibetan, and their religion is Tibetan Buddhism. However – unlike Tibet – being at the crossroads of major trading routes between the Indian plains, Kashmir, Central Asia and Tibet, Ladakh has always had strong connections with the outside world. These interactions over the centuries have changed, enhanced and enriched the region’s heritage.
The Tibetan roots of the land and its people are not the only magnet for visitors seduced by the far-reaching Ladakhi landscapes and Tibetan Buddhist culture.
