population
Some 290,000 people live in Ladakh, a population comparable to a medium-size European city, similar to that of Utrecht in The Netherlands, Bradford in England or Bialystok in Poland. Their ethnic roots are found in the Dards, the Tibetans and some other groups. The Dards are an Indo-Iranian group, but the Tibetans who migrated to the region during the 8th–10th centuries belong to Burmo-Mongolian stock. Other different groups from the south, west and north of Ladakh continually passed through the region over the centuries along old trading routes.
Ladakhi people are predominantly Buddhist, but Muslims (both Shia and Sunni) are an important part of the community too, forming the majority of the population in Kargil District, in the western part of the region. Hindus, Sikhs, Bonpo and Christians are also represented, although not in significant numbers.
Buddhism in Ladakh
The nature of Buddhism in Ladakh is closely enmeshed with the Vajrayana Buddhism of ancient Tibet. It has all the accoutrements that Tantra has brought to Tibetan Buddhism; some of its aspects can be traced far back to the Bon faith of the earliest periods of Tibetan history. Look in any Ladakhi gompa and you will be dazzled by the proliferation of Buddhist artistry and iconography. The sheer number of Buddha figures, bodhisattvas and idols, whether as paintings or statues, is astonishing. Even the most confirmed atheist will surely find something uplifting about Ladakh’s rich and colourful Buddhist heritage.
Mala (Buddhist prayer beads)
Although Buddhism is considered to be a religion, much of its practice is a philosophy for life. Prince Gautama Siddhartha, the earthly Buddha, was born in southern Nepal and first initiated the ideas of Buddhism. The son of a king, his early life was one of luxury and he married the daughter of a neighbouring raja. At the age of 29 he realised that other life existed beyond his palatial confines and, leaving behind his wife and newborn son, he took up the life of an ascetic. He wandered far listening to wise men and Hindu Brahmin priests, but found no solace. After much meditation he found the path to enlightenment around 600BC, choosing to accept that life meant suffering.
The philosophy of Buddhism is based on the four noble truths and the eight noble paths. The four noble truths are the truth of suffering, which occurs through the cycle of rebirth. The second truth is the desire for things that lead to dissatisfaction. Nirvana, or the cessation of desire, is the third truth, and the fourth is the way of the middle path as a solution. The eight ways to attain the path to Nirvana are: right understanding, right thought, right speech, right action, right livelihood, right effort, right mind and right concentration.
The impermanent nature which is being taught in the ‘Four Noble Truths’ refers to the more subtle aspect of impermanence, which is the transitory nature of existence.
Daily Advice from the Heart Dalai Lama
Principal Buddhist Sects
Across Ladakh each monastery has close associations with the different Tibetan Buddhist schools. The main sects are as follows.
Nyingma-pa
The Nyingma-pa is the oldest Buddhist sect originating in Tibet, known as the Red Hat sect. It developed when the Indian master Santarakshita, and later Padma Sambhava, the Tantric sage, were invited to Tibet to teach Indian Buddhism. The Nyingma-pa postulates that a person can find their own path to enlightenment without the aid of teachers, collective meditations and the reading of scriptures. Padma Sambhava, later known as Guru Rinpoche, is considered to be the founder of Lamaism in Tibet. His consort Yeshe Tsogyal recorded many of the scriptures of her mentor and these were concealed, to be revealed to future masters when appropriate. Today the Nyingma-pa sect is found in Ladakh, Tibet and the Khumbu region of Nepal around Mount Everest.
Kadam-pa
The Kadam-pa developed in the 11th century after a Bon rebellion. Atisa, another intellectual Indian teacher from the Buddhist university of Nalanda in India, conceived it. He held the view that Tantric methods to enlightenment should only follow on after in-depth reflection on the philosophy of the religion. These austere practices probably led to it being eclipsed by the powerful Sakya-pa sect. The Kadam-pa doctrines later became the basis of the Gelug-pa.
The statue of Maitreya in Likir, Central Ladakh
Kagyu-pa
The Kagyu-pa sect is attributed to the Indian mystic translator (Lotsawa) Marpa (1012–97), a disciple of Atisa. He followed other famous Indian sages, Tilopa and Naropa, who are also considered masters of Kagyu-pa. The Kagyu-pa concentrate their meditations on inner mental and spiritual matters. They choose to be close to their teachers. The Kagyu-pa sect has a number of sub-groups, such as Dagpo, Drigung-pa, Druk-pa, Taglung-pa and the Karma-pa.
Karma-pa (Karmarpa)
The Karma-pa (Karmarpa) is a sub-sect that has descended from the master, Gampopa (1079–1153), whose life was reputedly foretold by Buddha Sakyamuni. The Black Hat Karmarpas are just one influential body within the sect, but are famous for their festival dances.
Drigung-pa
The Drigung sect has its founding monastery of Drigung Til about 125km northeast of Lhasa. Its founder was Jigten Sumgon (1143–1217). In Ladakh he is called Skyoba Jigjen.
Druk-pa
The northern Druk-pa are found in Tibet and Ladakh, while the southern Druk-pa are found in Bhutan. The sect originated in the 12th century in Ralung, near Gyangtse in southern Tibet. Many Druk-pa lamas left Ralung because of persecution by Gelug-pa followers. The Shabdrung, the spiritual leader of the Druk-pa sect, was a descendant of the founder of the Ralung Gompa, and in 1616 he also left for Bhutan.
Sakya-pa
The Sakya-pa began in the 11th century south of modern-day Lhatse, west of Xigatse. This sect stresses the need for study of the existing Buddhist scriptures. Under the Sakya-pa the two great Tibetan Buddhist bibles, the Tangyur and Kangyur, were compiled. The Sakya-pa flourished under Mongolian patronage, but later declined.
Gelug-pa
The Gelug-pa is the Yellow Hat sect of the Dalai Lama, initiated by Tsong Khapa, who reformed and developed Atisa’s original ideas. This form of Buddhism reverted to a purist format, bringing greater morality and discipline to the monks. It sought to remove some Tantric aspects and to cleanse the religion. The first monastery was established at Ganden, near Lhasa. The Dalai Lamas are the spiritual leaders of the Gelug-pa sect. In the early 15th century, the Gelug-pa schools came to Ladakh from Tibet and established the majority of the monasteries that exist today.
Planning the trip and the trek
When to go?
Putting aside winter treks, the recommended trekking season runs from late spring (mid-June) throughout the summer to late autumn (mid-October). The peak season, both for sightseeing and for trekking, is much shorter and lasts from mid-July to the end of August. Late August or September is therefore probably the best time for trekking in Ladakh. In spring and early summer many routes are inaccessible due to snow on the passes. In late June and July the rivers are high, making some of the crossings impossible. In August there are many big tour groups – not a good time for those who seek a quiet mountain adventure.
Wildflowers
