flourishing on the wide plains of Zanskar, near Padum, in summer (Treks 3–6)
By September autumnal colour starts to appear. Rivers, grey with melted glacier water in summer, become clear and incredibly turquoise in colour. Wild animals, having spent the summer on high pastures, come to the lower elevations and are more easily spotted. People have finished their work in the fields and have more time to talk and to host you in their homes; and it is still warm enough for a pleasant trekking experience.
October is cold but trekking is not impossible. It is a good idea to stay in the villages at night, avoid river crossings and high passes, and take extra clothes. Snow can fall in mid-October, even in Leh!
Which route?
The choice of route depends on the season, your experience, the available time and the preferred style of trekking. No trek is easy in Ladakh, but some are hard, others less demanding. If you are not an experienced trekker and want to trek on your own (see How to trek?), choose one of the classics: Markha Valley (Trek 8), Darcha to Padum (Trek 3) or Padum to Lamayuru (Trek 5). The Alchi circuit (Trek 7) is a little more physically demanding than the Markha Valley trek, but is generally easier than other treks. It is a good alternative to the latter, which is much more popular and crowded in the high season.
Local women with donkeys in the upper Markha Valley, with the Kang Yaze peaks beyond (Trek 8)
The Kharnak trek (Trek 1) is the longest, most diverse, remotest and most demanding trek in this guidebook. The Tsarab Chu trek (Trek 2) is a demanding route to Zanskar, a great alternative to the classic Darcha to Padum. The Kanji La route (Trek 6) is a beautiful although tough alternative to the classic trek from Zanskar (Trek 5). Needless to say, these three are the best in the book. None of them, however, can be done throughout the whole season.
The beautiful Round Sultanlango trek (Trek 4) is taxing with precipitous, narrow paths, river crossings and a long ascent to the pass. However, the time spent in remote areas is relatively short, hence the amount of supplies to be carried is reduced. It is a less popular trek in Zanskar, accessible only in late summer and autumn.
The treks overview table (see Appendix A) will help you decide which trek is most suitable for you.
How long to stay?
You need to allow at least two weeks in Ladakh if you want to trek. Remember that acclimatisation takes time, that even shorter treks require about seven days, and that getting to the starting points on most of the routes also takes time.
Additional time must be built in for getting to and from Ladakh. You can’t be sure about flights and roads, because of the weather, snowfalls and landslides that may cause delays and closures at any time during the season. It normally takes two days to get to Leh by road from either Manali or Srinagar (check the security issues if contemplating a route via Srinagar in the Kashmir Valley). Getting to Manali by road from Delhi takes at least a day, and getting to Srinagar from Delhi takes one to three days, but this cannot be recommended at the time of writing due to political unrest.
Flying is the preferred way for many travellers and most groups. It is much faster (under two hours from Delhi), but allow for possible delays due to inclement weather conditions and remember that you will need to build in more time to acclimatise (see How to get there).
How to trek?
All the treks described in this guide have been covered independently by the author, mostly alone. This style of trekking in Ladakh, however, is hard work and is considered by many as either madness or masochism! Luckily there are other options available.
Any of the styles of trekking described below can be tailored to the routes in this book. Your choice should depend on which trail appeals, the fitness and experience of the trek members, and the time you want to spend trekking. Judge your capabilities honestly before you go.
Trekking alone or in a small, independent group
Ladakh is basically a wild mountain desert. Trekking independently to remoter areas and thus increasing the level of risk should not be the first choice for most people – far better to do a shorter trek on the first visit. Obviously walking alone (or as a couple) gives great flexibility; there are no disputes with others in the party about route options, where to camp and how long to trek each day. However, it should be remembered that there is no emergency evacuation from almost the entire region, and so being self-sufficient, fit and strong is vital.
Author’s camp below the Kanda La (Trek 8); if trekking independently you will need to carry all your camping equipment as well as food for most of the trek
Trekking without a guide or a horseman is possible, but is a demanding choice. It is both physically and mentally hard. If trekking alone in remote areas you will usually need to carry much more than 20kg on your back, and it will be a tough routine of early wake-ups, packing, cooking and so on. You will depend on no one, but also there will be no one there to help you. Finding the way is not always easy; the path will be precipitous; rivers will be cold and hard to cross.
Carrying your rucksack all day gets tiring. You will need to learn your physical limits and find the strength to keep going. You will be alone for hours at night and sometimes even for a few long days. You will be totally cut off from the modern world. However, no other style of trek will teach you so much about yourself, give you so much experience and probably so much satisfaction!
Because Ladakh is such a demanding place it is not a good idea to trek independently if you have not done it elsewhere. Choose a popular route, where you will meet people and pass villages where you can sleep and eat. If you are an inexperienced trekker take a companion with you – two heads are better than one.
Trekking alone requires skills that cannot be learned from a book and must be gained through experience. The author is convinced that, despite the obvious risks, trekking alone can be enjoyed by those with the right attitude and ability.
Village-to-village trekking
Such trekking is based on local accommodation and food (homestay) and is the easiest form of independent trekking. It gives a glimpse into local life and you learn infinitely more about the culture than when travelling with an organised trekking group. Although no route in this book can be done entirely in this way, the number of camping nights can be limited. You can also modify some of the routes to make a wonderful village-to-village trek. This mode of trekking will lessen the load you need to carry, yet will let you retain your independence. Some commercial trekking companies now offer this style of trip.
Arranged locally
Hiring a horseman and ponies makes the trekking easier; it is a fantastic experience and may herald the beginning of long friendships. You may arrange your trek directly, simply by going to the starting point and trying to find animals and a horseman. This is usually possible during the peak season on the popular routes; horsemen who have finished their last trek wait for a new job for a few days before starting for home. The price depends on the route; it should be about Rs400 for a day for one horse, but remember that not only your own luggage has to be carried, but also the horseman’s equipment and the animals’ food. You can arrange to use the horseman’s stove or other gear. Usually, he can also cook for you and will be your guide, translator and companion. Good places to try this
