striped wings.
Water birds include the occasional flock of flamingos, along with waders such as seagulls, herons, spoonbills, egrets and oystercatchers that can be spotted at the important wetland sites of Lake Andiniotissa, Lake Korission and the old salt pans at Lefkimmi.
The vast wetlands at Lefkimmi are home to many birds (Walk 20)
Potential danger may come in the shape of the island’s small venomous snakes, but sightings are rare. The asp viper (Vipera aspis) is a smallish cream–hazel-coloured snake with a broad triangular head, whereas the horned viper (Vipera ammodytes), as its name suggests, has a horn on its snout and is a lighter grey–brown, with wavy markings. These snakes only attack when threatened or surprised – they may be drowsy when soaking up the sun on a path, so give them time to slither away. Their poison acts slowly and very rarely is the bite fatal. In the unlikely event that you are bitten, contact emergency services immediately. The number of these snakes has diminished drastically over recent years due to the widespread use of pesticides and weed killers.
Harmless snakes include the grass snake and the slow worm, the latter related to lizards. These come in many shapes and colours: the best loved is the ingenious gecko, which hangs onto walls and ceiling with its marvellous sucker feet as it hunts for insects attracted to light sources.
Getting there
The easiest and cheapest way to reach Corfu is by plane. There is a huge choice of flights from the UK and many European cities, including northern Europe and Scandinavia. Companies that serve the island include British Airways, Easyjet, Ryanair, Thomas Cook Airlines and Thomson Airways. The airport (www.corfu-airport.com) is only 3km from Corfu Town, and handy airport minibus transfers can be arranged through www.hoppa.com/en/hoppago and www.holidaytaxis.com. Should you need it, a city bus (frequent service) stops a 15min walk away out on the main road.
It is unquestionably more romantic, if more long-winded, either to drive or to take a train to Italy’s Adriatic coast, then catch a car ferry from either Ancona, Bari or Brindisi. These leisurely overnight voyages conclude at the Greek mainland port of Igoumenitsa, from where there are plenty of connecting ferries across the straits to Corfu Town or Lefkimmi. Direct ferries to Corfu have unfortunately been shouldered out by the more lucrative cruise ships.
Corfu ferry awaiting passengers at Igoumenitsa
Local transport
Two excellent capillary bus networks radiate out from Corfu Town and cover virtually every corner of the island. Be aware that heavy traffic in and around the town often causes delays, especially on rainy days. It’s a good idea at the start of a holiday to pick up a copy of timetables from the main ticket offices in Corfu Town so you can plan your movements.
The Blue Buses run around Corfu Town and relatively close destinations such as the airport, Benitses and Pelekas (tel 26610 39859, www.astikoktelkerkyras.gr for timetables). Villages further afield, as far south as Kavos and north to Aharavi, are served by the Green Buses (www.ktelkerkyras.gr tel 26610 28927). They also do long-distance runs to Athens and Thessaloniki.
Otherwise there are the island’s taxis. Services are plentiful right across the island and fares are reasonable. Ask your hotel or B&B to call one for you. Alfa Taxi (www.alfataxicorfu.net tel 26630 32400) covers the north of the island, as does the taxi company tel 26610 30180. For the south of the island (mob 6977 864823 www.southcorfutaxi.com).
Information
The official Greek Tourist Authority website (www.visitgreece.gr) has all sorts of helpful and inspiring information about Corfu. There are currently no tourist offices on the island.
More walk suggestions can be found at www.zizyphus.co.uk and www.corfucastaway.com.
When to go
The best time to go is May–October, when everything is functioning and in full swing. Walking on the island is possible year-round, but much of the accommodation and restaurants close down in late October and do not open again until late April/May. This is of crucial importance for walkers on the Corfu Trail. That said, in the off season it is not impossible to find hotels and flat owners prepared to let out premises even for a single night, and people are unfailingly helpful in finding walkers a place to stay.
The White House at Kalami (Walks 1 and 2)
The weather is the other determining factor. Corfu’s climate is temperate, mild in winter and with sunny balmy days in summer, often tempered by a sea breeze. Maximum temperatures on Corfu are 23°C in May, 31°C July/August then 23°C in October. Midsummer, on the other hand (July–August in particular), is not the best time to walk low-level routes due to the scorching sun and hot winds, which can make long, shadeless stretches too warm and unpleasant. Moreover beach resorts and Corfu Town will be heaving. On the plus side, however, walks close to the coast can be followed up with a refreshing swim in the turquoise Ionian Sea, which is at its warmest in August, when the water temperature averages 27°C. Winter spells storms and heavy rain, especially from November through to February, and snow can appear on the mountains (it is this precipitation that makes Corfu so lush and green.) The driest months are May–September.
Accommodation
For visitors planning day walks Corfu offers an excellent choice of reasonably priced hotels and family-run guesthouses, often with an attached café-restaurant. Some suggestions can be found in Appendix B. Staying in a resort, usually booked through a tour operator, can be an excellent deal thanks to the all-inclusive formula whereby limitless meals and drinks are paid for in advance, but check the location carefully. Unless you opt for accommodation in Corfu Town or a village with good bus links, a hire car will be essential to access the walks.
Corfu offers many family-run guesthouses, often with an attached café-restaurant
Hotels and resorts generally accept credit cards, but always check, especially at small family-run establishments. Where possible advance reserve in advance, either directly to the accommodation provider or online through sites such as www.booking.com (which charge owners a commission). Rooms to let always have an en suite bathroom, and often turn out to be flats with a kitchen: at worst there will be an electric kettle. Breakfast is not always included, often an advantage for walkers who can see to their own and make an early start instead of wandering around a village in search of an early-opening café. Be aware that many apartments are available for single-night stays as well as longer term. Don’t hesitate to ask.
The Corfiots are great gardeners and many hotels and rented rooms are pleasantly set amid scented lemon trees or flourishing flower and vegetable gardens.
