Walking and Trekking on Corfu. Gillian Price
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As can be expected, place names on Corfu are in Greek script, although many have been transcribed to English characters and often translated on signs to help visitors. However, there are huge variations in spelling. The versions in this Guide are based on those on the Freytag & Berndt map. Note that Corfu Town is also referred to as Kerkyra.
Another thing to watch out for is the recurrence of identical or very similar names. A common example is Pantokrator or Pandokratoras – Christ depicted as all-embracing, ruler of the universe, The Almighty. Numerous chapels bear his name, and have often given the name to the mountain they stand on. The only true Oros Pandokratoras (Mount Pandokratoras) is the highest point on Corfu in the northeast. Others often referred to as Pantokrator for their eponymous monasteries are the Agii Deka massif between the villages of Agios Deka and Stavros, and Agios Mattheos further south.
The Pantokrator, Christ the Almighty
Agios or Ayios – pronounced ‘eye-eos’ – means ‘saint’ (the term gave rise to ‘hagiography’, the lives of the saints, in English). An immensely popular place name is Agios Georgios (Saint George). There are two beach locations with this name – one in the north and the other in the south. For the purposes of this Guide, one is referred to as Agios Georgios south and its counterpart Agios Georgios north. To confuse things more, there’s a Mount Agios Georgios on the west coast, not to mention the village of similarly spelled Agios Gordios to its south. Agios Georgios south is sometimes referred to as Agios Georgios Argyrades, and Agios Georgios north as Agios Georgios Pagi.
Spiridion is the island’s highly revered patron saint: however, curiously few places have been named after him – apart from the place where the Corfu Trail concludes.
Saint Spiridion
Spiridion was a 4th-century Cretan shepherd who took his vows on the death of his wife and went on to become a bishop. He was credited with some miracles during his lifetime. When Crete was taken over by the Arabs his body – still intact – was moved to Constantinople. In 1453 a Corfiot monk took the embalmed remains to Corfu, where they are still held in great awe today and attributed with miraculous influence. Spiridion is known as the Keeper of the City for his help in expelling both the plague and the Turks – on that occasion he appeared in a vision to the invaders, threatening them with a cross and a flaming torch.
Dos and don’ts
When out walking on Corfu keep the following points in mind:
allow plenty of extra time for wrong turns, fallen trees and mud after heavy rain: these can hamper progress
carry all your rubbish away with you
avoid treading on the nets in olive groves – they’re expensive
close all gates behind you
don’t light any fires and, if you smoke, put out cigarettes carefully as the vegetation can be as dry as tinder
carry lots of water wherever you go walking: villages do not have drinking fountains and streams are often polluted by chemicals used in agriculture; refreshment points – cafés and the like – are listed in the information box for each walk
remember that people live here: stay on the paths and don’t walk through private property
walkers on the Corfu Trail should carry a good supply of euros in cash as unlike the larger hotels, small establishments don’t usually accept credit cards and the only ATMs en route are at Kavos and Paleokastritsa
don’t expect everyone to speak English: find time to learn some Greek expressions (see Appendix C). This will endear you to the Corfiots.
Avoid treading on the nets under olive trees
Emergencies
In case of emergency call:
ambulance tel 166
police tel 100.
Using this Guide
This Guide describes a selection of 22 shorter walks designed to fit into a single day. The majority are circuits with a return to the start point. They are listed under four chapters: northeast, northwest, centre and south. Each chapter begins with an introduction outlining the area’s main features, villages and transport and accommodation facilities.
The Guide then describes the Corfu Trail (CT), which has been split up into 10 stages, each corresponding to a reasonable day’s walking, and always concluding at a village where meals and accommodation can be found. Walkers with less than 10 days’ holiday can slot in or bail out at the many villages linked by bus to Corfu Town. Handy places include Potami, Agios Georgios south, Pelekas and Agios Georgios north. Otherwise one of the island’s reliable and reasonably priced taxis can be used.
Not many walking routes on Corfu are waymarked so the detailed route descriptions and maps in this guide need to be followed carefully.
Each stage for the CT and the day walks have an information box containing the following essential data:
Walk start and finish point
distance (given in kilometres)
ascent and descent: this is important information, as height gain and loss are an indication of effort required and need to be taken into account alongside difficulty and distance when planning the day
difficulty – each walk has been classified by grade, although adverse weather conditions will make any route more arduous:Grade 1 – an easy route on clear tracks and paths, suitable for beginnersGrade 2 – paths across hill and mountain terrain, with lots of ups and downs; a reasonable level of fitness is preferableGrade 3 – strenuous, entailing prolonged ascent/descent, possibly with orientation problems: experience and extra care are recommendedWalking time: this does not include time out for rests, picnics, views, photos or nature stops, so as a general rule double the walk times given when planning your day. Every walker goes at a different pace and makes an unpredictable number of stops along the way, so the ‘skeleton’ times given are a guide.
Compass bearings are abbreviated (N, S, NNW and so on). Reference landmarks and places encountered en route are in bold type. Altitudes are given in metres (m) above sea level (100m = 328ft).
Arrows are also used to mark the Corfu Trail
CORFU’S NORTHEAST
The descent path below Old Perithia (Walk 3 and Corfu Trail, Stage 10)
Life in the island’s northeast is lived in the shadow of the sprawling limestone massif of the Pandokratoras. Soaring to 911m above sea level,