land for wandering goats who can survive on thorny scrub. For walkers the rocky mountain means lengthy slogs across rugged terrain with little shade – but the upsides are solitude and huge views over the sparkling Ionian Sea to scattered islands and the mainland. The mountainsides slope down through dense woodland and extensive olive plantations to beautiful coastlines. To the east the sheltered coast juts out into the Straits of Corfu, mere kilometres from Albania. Thousands of escapees swam to Corfu or paddled across on tyre inner tubes in 1990, after communism in the country collapsed and its borders opened up. These days the shore is a string of enchantingly small, secluded coves with pebble beaches and inviting tavernas. It is a favourite with upmarket yachting types, which is sometimes reflected in accommodation and restaurant prices. The main coast road links Ipsos and Barbati with Kassiopi and Aharavi, and is served by buses throughout the summer months.
Walk 1 takes a stroll along the delightful coastal path that links up all the lovely bays between Kaminaki and Kerasia. Places with accommodation en route include Nissaki bay (sometimes referred to as Krouzeri beach), with apartments and a large multi-starred hotel. Kalami, on the other hand, is located a short way off the main coast road (15min on foot from the bus stop) and is a quiet place to stay. At one end of its beach stands an attractive landmark villa, The White House, former home of the writer Lawrence Durrell. Its other claim to fame is as the bay where Sir Timothy Havelock and his wife are assassinated in the Bond film For Your Eyes Only. Kalami is also the start point for Walk 2, a memorable circuit embracing both coast and mountain.
Kaminaki beach where the coastal path begins
In surprising contrast is the northern coastline, with beautiful long sandy beaches flanked by low rocky headlands culminating in Cape Agia Ekaterinis, the northernmost point of Corfu, which encloses Lake Andiniotissa, a protected nature area and haven for birds and otters. The headland is explored in Walk 4 and the long-distance Corfu Trail concludes nearby.
Not far inland – 8km due south but 420m above sea level on the mountain’s flank – is the atmospheric village of Old Perithia, reputedly a Byzantine settlement but in all probability much older. Only a handful of people call it home during summer, and they run local restaurants, cafés and a boutique B&B. The CT transits here, as does Walk 3.
Down at sea level, the sprawling township of Aharavi (also spelt ‘Acharavi’) makes a good base for the area, with plenty of shops, accommodation and year-round bus links with Corfu Town, not to mention a lovely 7km-long sandy beach. Walk 5 begins there.
WALK 1
Kaminaki to Kerasia coastal path
| Start/Finish | Kaminaki |
| Distance | 10.5km |
| Ascent/Descent | 50m/50m |
| Grade | 1–2 |
| Walking time | 3hr 30min (1hr 45min one-way) |
| Refreshments | Kaminaki, Nissaki bay, Agni, Kalami, Kouloura, Kerasia |
| Access | Kaminaki – and indeed all of the main beaches visited during the walk – are accessible by car, mostly down steep narrow roads off the main coastal artery. If you catch the bus (Kassiopi line), tell the driver you want to get off at the turnoff for Kaminaki; from the bus stop it’s 15min on foot down to the waterfront where the walk starts – either follow the yellow Corfu Trail markers or take the road. At Kerasia, it’s 2km up to the road and the bus stop, if you conclude the walk there |
This divine wander along Corfu’s rocky northeastern coast drops in at a string of pretty coves and bays. The mountainous Albanian mainland, only kilometres away across the straits, is a constant companion. Allow plenty of extra time, as you’ll be constantly distracted by seafront eateries and inviting swimming spots. The main beaches have pebbles rather than sand and are equipped with the usual sun beds, umbrellas and laid-back tavernas, but walkers are likely to have the other coves all to themselves. Don’t forget your swimming costume and sun protection. Most of the walk uses clear easy pathways, while a short stretch follows a quiet road. Trainers, not sandals, are recommended.
At charming Kaminaki, where the pebbly seafront is lined with tavernas, go L (NNE) to the end of the beach. Here a clear path leads along the rocky coast in the company of giant agave plants. Private secluded villas perched in scenic spots are passed. It’s not far to Nissaki bay, which is popular with the groups at the only big hotel on this stretch of coast. Continue past the swimming pool to the bar then go up and along the front of the hotel building to where the lovely path resumes, as does peace and quiet. Shaded by olive trees and flanked by bleached rocks, the way soon climbs steeply albeit briefly on steps circling private property. The glittering turquoise sea is constantly seen through the trees. Further along gradual descent concludes at lovely Agni beach. Here you walk through the premises of friendly Nikolas Taverna.
On the way to Agni beach
Once the jetty and other eateries have been passed you pick up the path once more, signed for Gialiskari beach. This climbs a little through holm oak wood on another lovely stretch leading to quiet Gialiskari beach, an expanse of pebbles in a secluded cove where yachts moor. Here fork left, following signs for Kalami. A wall of prickly pear shrubs and a vegetable plot are passed and it’s up to join a concreted lane through olive groves. At a tarmac road, continue straight ahead in descent for the short distance separating you from the landmark villa the White House.
The former residence of expatriate British writer Lawrence Durrell, the cube-shaped White House is now a charming restaurant with accommodation.
Immediately after the building take the steps to the waterfront and jetty and proceed along the beach of Kalami (1hr) with its eateries.
At the far end take the steps to the road and follow the tarmac up the hill to an intersection where you need the downhill fork for Kouloura. At the bottom you go right for the promontory housing highly photogenic Kouloura, with its petite harbour for fishing boats, taverna and 11th-century church.
The charming harbour at Kouloura
Backtrack to the last turnoff and keep straight ahead to the beach of Chouchoulio, shaded by towering eucalyptus trees. Near an old building at the far end is a path signed for Kerasia. This leads around the next point to a quiet pebble beach which concludes at low cliffs. These are avoided as the path forks left for a lovely wander across the low headland. Just after another small beach ignore the turn-off left for overgrown ‘Public path main road’ and keep on the level way in the company of masses of white sea squills and thorny bushes. Kerasia beach (45min) is a lovely conclusion to the walk. The long quiet pebbly beach is backed with shady eucalypts, and there’s a taverna at the far end.
Return the same way to Kaminaki (1hr 45min). Alternatively, if you want to call it a day here, look for the sign halfway along the beach pointing inland for a route leading up to the main road.
WALK 2
Kalami to Menegoulas loop
| Start/Finish | Kalami |
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Distance
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