Walking the Munros Vol 2 - Northern Highlands and the Cairngorms. Steve Kew
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Ben Macdui from Braeriach summit
Carn a’ Mhaim and the Lairig Ghru from Braeriach
Continue north-northwest over the jumble of stones capping Derry Cairngorm, then drop down to a grassy col below Creagan a’ Choire Etchachan. It is not necessary to climb the Creagan a’ Choire Etchachan, which in other company might be a Munro itself. Instead pass to its left (west) and then veer round to the southwest above the steep crags of Coire Sputan Dearg. A clearly defined path appears, which leads gently along the cliff tops until it turns west at 999 988 to reach the summit of Ben Macdui, just beyond the ruins of the old bothy. The summit is crowned by a large cairn and trig point at 98903 98930, as well as by various other impromptu stone structures (4hrs 5mins from Derry Lodge).
There is a pleasant descent to Glen Luibeg down the southeastern spur of the hill - the Sron Riach - but a third Munro of the day is beckoning within easy reach. From Ben Macdui’s stony summit go east-southeast for about 0.75km until the incipient Allt Clach nan Taillear is crossed at 99648 98643. The descent can then be made down the spur that runs to the southeast of this burn. The hillside here is a vast jumble of stones and boulders, and the way through these is not always obvious. Descend with care to the col at the northern end of Carn a’ Mhaim’s long, sharp ridge. Sharp ridges are an unusual feature in these parts and this one provides pleasant and easy walking along the narrow rocky edge until the summit is reached at 99464 95181, marked by a small cairn (5hrs 50mins from Derry Lodge).
A more workmanlike cairn sits atop Carn a’ Mhaim’s southeastern summit ½km further on at 99842 94947, but this is not as high as the main top and the path bypasses it. The descent from here to the valley goes straight down the southeast spur, dropping quite steeply to the prominent track that skirts around the base of the hill. Follow this to the Luibeg Burn. It may be possible to cross this burn where the track meets it at the ruins of the old bridge, but a short diversion upstream to the new Luibeg Bridge will probably be necessary, as this river can carry a lot of water. Once across, a major path, recently reconstructed, leads back to Derry Lodge.
ROUTE 5
The Devil’s Point (1004m), Cairn Toul (1291m), The Angels’ Peak (Sgor an Lochain Uaine) (1258m)
Pronunciation: Kayrn Tool; Sgor un Lochan You-annya
Translation: Devil’s Point is a euphemism for the original Gaelic, meaning ‘Devil’s penis’; Peak of the Barn; Pinnacle of the Green Lochan (better known as the Angels’ Peak)
Start | footpath from back of car park or, if cycling, along estate track from road |
Distance | 38km (of which 11km can be cycled) |
Total Ascent | 1380m |
Grade | see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above) |
Time | 10hrs 55mins (about 1hr 20mins less if cycling to Derry Lodge) |
Maps | OS sheet 43; Explorer map 403; Harvey’s Superwalker map Cairn Gorm; Area Map 6 |
Access | National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669 |
Parking | car park at Linn of Dee |
Accommodation | Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar |
The massive plateau of the northern Cairngorms is split in two towards its western end by a single deep valley - the Lairig Ghru. To the east of this valley rise the shadowy giants of Creag an Leth-choin, Cairn Lochan, Ben Macdui and the long ridge of Carn a’ Mhaim. To its west a series of steep cliffs falls from the summits of another range of giants that include the Devil’s Point, Cairn Toul and Braeriach. Reaching these grand but remote hills is yet another long and demanding day if starting from Linn of Dee, albeit a thoroughly worthwhile one.
Time can be saved by cycling to or camping at Derry Lodge. Alternatively Corrour Bothy, at the foot of the Devil’s Point at the southern end of the Lairig Ghru, makes a convenient base for this and other hills.
From Derry Lodge cross the bridge over the Derry Burn and follow the path along Glen Luibeg to the Luibeg Burn. Cross this at the new bridge and return to the path that skirts around the southern flanks of Carn a’ Mhaim to reach the southern end of the Lairig Ghru. Once you are in the Lairig Ghru you soon leave the main path and cross a short wet section of peat bogs to reach a metal bridge over the River Dee and, just beyond it, Corrour Bothy. From the bothy climb steeply up to the col below the Devil’s Point. The footpath here was reconstructed in 2002 right up to the col. From the col it is an easy walk to the summit, bearing south-east along a boulder-strewn path to reach the summit cairn at 97612 95123 (3hrs 30mins from Derry Lodge).
The Devil’s Point from Carn a’ Mhaim
Lochain Uaine from the flanks of Cairn Toul
After admiring the breath-taking views of Beinn Bhrotain and Glen Dee, return to the col and then climb steadily up to Cairn Toul’s southern top. The obvious path keeps close to the edge but passes through the worst of the jumbled boulders. There is a better line further west that avoids these, but it is much easier to find and follow in descent than ascent. There are good views of Cairn Toul’s main top across the Coire an t-Saighdeir. From the cairn on the southern top there is a short drop before climbing again over more blocks and boulders to Cairn Toul’s main summit. There are two cairns on top. Pass the first and continue to the second, which is about 150m further on along a stony ridge, at 96323 97227. This is the highest point (5hrs from Derry Lodge).
The Angels’ Peak, Sgor an Lochain Uaine, is only just over 1km from the summit of Cairn Toul and really has to be bagged while you are here. Descend over more boulders and stones to a sandy col above the Lochan Uaine at 95752 97328 (Sgor an Lochain Uaine), then climb easily to the Angels’ Peak, which does indeed command heavenly views to the north and west across the Allt a’ Gharbh Choire, taking in the Falls of Dee, Braeriach and the central well of the Lairig Ghru. The summit cairn is at 95425 97692 (5hrs 30mins from Derry Lodge).
After photographs have been taken, return to the sandy col then turn southeast, skirting around the flanks of Cairn Toul to regain the col between it and its southern top. This is an easy traverse with few boulders to cross until the col is reached. From here it is a straightforward task to regain the southern top of Cairn Toul and follow the outward path back to Corrour Bothy and eventually to Derry Lodge.
ROUTE 6
Beinn Bhrotain (1157m), Monadh Mor (1113m)
Pronunciation: Bine Vrotteen; Monnath More
Translation: the Hill of the Brodan (the fabled hound or mastiff); Big Mountain
Start | follow private track along north side of the Dee |
Distance | 37km if returning via Glen Geusachan; 32km if returning by route of ascent (in total 16km can be cycled) |
Total Ascent | 1010m if returning by Glen Geusachan; 1300m if returning by route of ascent |
Grade | see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above) |
Time | 9hrs 15mins (about 2hr 25mins less if using a bike on the estate track, but add about 1hr if returning via Glen Geusachan) |
Maps | OS sheet 43; Explorer map 403; Harvey’s Superwalker map Cairn Gorm; Area Map 6 |
Access | National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669. Normally no restriction on access at any time of year |
Parking | car park at Linn of Dee |
Accommodation | Hostel
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