Walking the Munros Vol 2 - Northern Highlands and the Cairngorms. Steve Kew
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Translation: Speckled Mountain; Mountain of the Rowan
Start | footpath from back of car park (if walking), or private track from the road (if cycling) |
Distance | 32km (of which at least 12km can be cycled) |
Total Ascent | 840m |
Grade | see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above) |
Time | 8hrs 35mins (about 1hr 20mins less if a bike is used to Derry Lodge) |
Maps | OS sheets 36 and 43; Explorer map 403; Area Map 6 |
Access | National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669 |
Parking | car park at Linn of Dee |
Accommodation | Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar; wild camping at Derry Lodge |
This long walk takes you across the vast plateau at the heart of the Cairngorm and returns along Glen Derry through a beautiful area of ancient Caledonian pine forest.
Walk or cycle to Derry Lodge and continue into Glen Derry, staying on the right-hand (east) side of the Derry Burn. Follow the track to a high point in the trees at 04542 94990. It is possible to cycle to this point at present, although this may not always be the case as the National Trust’s intention is to turn the track back to moorland with just a footpath in its place. A faint path starts here up the hillside through trees and heather, and if you can find this path it makes the going a lot easier. Climb across the moorland to a narrow col between Meall an Lundain and Beinn Bhreac, then follow the line of the ridge up to the rounded, stony eastern top of Beinn Bhreac, which is its highest point at 05868 97067 (3hrs 30mins; about 40mins less if a bike is used on the track).
Beinn Bhreac from the Derry Burn
Beinn a’ Chaorainn looks to be only a few hundred metres from here, but it is actually nearer to 5km. The going is firm and easy to start with as you bypass or cross Beinn Bhreac’s western top, then head on to Craig Derry. But soon the ground becomes wet and peaty, although there are enough stones in the peat to make progress fairly easy. The best line follows the high ground, zigzagging from Craig Derry to Moine Bhealaidh, then making for the stony southeast ridge of Beinn a’ Chaorainn. Climb this more easily to the summit cairn at 04515 01351 (5hrs; about 40mins less if a bike is used).
Descend southwest over granite boulders to the steep enclosing slope that drops down to the Lairig an Laoigh. If you try to descend too soon, this slope is rocky, scree covered and uncomfortably steep. The easiest line drops down due west from 03750 00500. Once here, all difficulties are over and the prominent path can be followed back along Glen Derry. If you used a bike beyond Derry Lodge, turn uphill to the left at a metal bridge and follow the path and track back to the foot of Meall an Lundain, where you started the ascent. If you walked from Derry Lodge, the pleasantest way back is to cross the metal bridge and follow the path back along the west bank of the river.
ROUTE 3
Beinn Mheadhoin (1182m)
Pronunciation: Bine Veeyann
Translation: Middle Mountain
Start | along footpath from back of car park (if walking) or along estate road (if cycling) |
Distance | 32km (of which 15km can be cycled) |
Total Ascent | 800m |
Grade | see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above) |
Time | 8hrs 35mins (about 1hr 50mins less if using a bike) |
Maps | OS sheets 36 and 43; Explorer map 403; Harvey’s Superwalker map Cairn Gorm; Area Map 6 |
Access | National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669 |
Parking | car park near Linn of Dee |
Accommodation | Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar |
Beinn Mheaddhoin is a hidden hill that nestles right in the middle of the Cairngorms, as its name suggests. It is often climbed from the north, but this approach involves rather more descent and reascent than the route described here. The approach from the south via Glen Derry may be slightly longer but it is also easier.
From Linn of Dee walk or cycle to Derry Lodge and continue into Glen Derry. The estate track to the east of the river can be cycled for a further couple of kilometres at the time of writing, although this is one of the tracks that the National Trust is planning to restore to moorland. The footpath on the west side of the river offers a pleasanter approach through the trees. The two tracks join just beyond a footbridge, and a well-trodden path then follows the river, dividing higher upstream where the right-hand branch heads into the Lairig an Laoigh. The left-hand branch veers round past the Coire Etchachan bothy and climbs up to the black waters of Loch Etchachan.
Just beyond the outflow of this loch, climb a steep gravel path onto Beinn Mheadhoin’s main ridge. The scenery on this broad ridge is reminiscent of a prairie from the Far West, with a pavement of broken granite slabs set in gravel and sand with short, tufted grass sprouting through intermittently. All the scene needs is a few cacti and a man on a horse… Pass a number of small, weathered granite tors until a large square-set tor is reached, larger and higher than the rest. It seems impregnable as you approach, but a short scramble up the far side takes you to the summit at 02459 01683 (4hrs 55mins; less if using a bike).
Return by the route of ascent.
ROUTE 4
Derry Cairngorm (1155m), Ben Macdui (1309m), Carn a’ Mhaim (1037m)
Pronunciation: Derry Cairngorm; Ben Macdui; Karn er Vime
Translation: Wooded Blue Hill; (probably) Hill of the Sons of Dubh (or Duff); Cairn of the Pass
Start | footpath from car park or, if cycling, along estate track from road |
Distance | 32km (of which 11km can be cycled) |
Total Ascent | 1340m |
Grade | see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above) |
Time | 9hrs 20mins (1hr 20mins less if a bike is used to Derry Lodge) |
Maps | OS sheet 43; Explorer map 403; Harvey’s Superwalker map Cairn Gorm; Area Map 6 |
Access | National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669 |
Parking | car park at Linn of Dee |
Accommodation | Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar |
Scotland’s second highest mountain, Ben Macdui, lies appropriately in the very heart of this remote and unforgiving range of hills. Reaching it from any direction involves a long but satisfying walk. Although there is no technical climbing or scrambling on this walk, there is much rough terrain to cover high on the mountains. This, plus the distance involved, makes it quite a tough outing.
From the Linn of Dee walk or cycle to Derry Lodge along the private track and cross the Derry Burn at the footbridge. The day can be shortened by cycling, or perhaps by camping in the meadows at Derry Lodge and using this as a base for the three or four long routes that start from here. Once you have crossed the Scots pine meadows and passed through a small enclosure via two stiles, the climbing starts in earnest up the Creag Bad an t-Seabhaig, the southeastern spur of Derry Cairngorm. The path is obvious at first, although higher up it sometimes gets lost amongst the stones. Continue gaining height steadily and pass over, or round, Point 1040, just before the final stony climb to the conical summit of Derry Cairngorm. There are actually two cairns on the summit