Walking the Munros Vol 2 - Northern Highlands and the Cairngorms. Steve Kew
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This is yet another long outing, this time at the western end of the range, giving fine walking over rough terrain in some very remote country. Compared with some of their illustrious neighbours, these two hills have relatively few ascents.
From Linn of Dee walk or cycle along the private track to the White Bridge. Cross the bridge and immediately turn right along the southwest bank of the River Dee. The track can be cycled right up to the eastern flanks of the mountain, but it gets rougher the further you go. Be prepared for a bumpy ride. When you get to a bend in the track to the southeast of Carn Fiaclach Beag, take to the heathery hillside and climb to the south of this rocky little knob. Continue on the same line, passing just south of the next outcrop - Carn Fiaclach. Ahead of you rises the steep stony cone of Carn Cloich-mhuilinn, and whilst it is possible to avoid the summit itself, passing to its northeast, little is gained by doing so and it is pleasanter to go straight over the rocky, cairned top. Drop down the stony northwest slopes on the other side and cross a little plateau before tackling the final grassy flanks of Beinn Bhrotain. A rib on the south side of the Coire an t-Sneachda provides an easy way up. The broad, stone-covered summit has a number of cairns, the highest of which contains a trig point at 95413 92278 (4hrs 15mins; less if using a bike).
The River Dee and Beinn Bhrotain from the Devil’s Point
The western side of this hill is similar in character to Carn Toul, and a huge jumble of boulders has to be crossed as you drop down to the narrow col at Point 975 (94748 92704). From here climb steeply at first, but more easily, onto Monadh Mor’s long summit ridge. Pass the cairn at its southern top to reach the highest point at 93865 94220 (5hrs 15mins; less if using a bike).
The quickest route to return by is the route of ascent, even though this requires the reascent of Beinn Bhrotain. To descend via Glen Geusachan continue along the ridge for another ½km or so, to 93750 94979, then descend to the northeast towards the southern end of Loch nan Stuirteag, passing to the north of a line of crags. A short, steep descent is then made to the infant Geusachan Burn, and from here the burn is followed on its west and south sides back to its confluence with the River Dee and thus back to the track. The path along this section is at best intermittent, and the country to be crossed is rough and, in places, wet. Eventually better ground arrives, and once the track is reached it is a simple task to return to Linn of Dee by the outward route.
CAIRNGORMS: GLEN EY
ROUTE 7
Carn an Fhidhleir (994m), An Sgarsoch (1006m)
Pronunciation: Karn ern Eeleth; Un Sgarshoch
Translation: The Fiddler; Place of Sharp Rocks
Start | follow private track along north side of the Dee |
Distance | 42km (16km from Geldie Lodge; 13km each way from Linn of Dee to Geldie Lodge) |
Total Ascent | 940m |
Grade | see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above) |
Time | 11hrs from Linn of Dee (about 3hrs 30mins less if using a bike on the estate track) |
Maps | OS sheet 43; Explorer maps 394 and 387; Area Map 6 |
Access | National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41669; Hillphone: 01796 481740 |
Parking | car park at Linn of Dee |
Accommodation | Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar |
These two remote hills lie a very long way from civilization, but a good track from Linn of Dee to Geldie Lodge makes access to them relatively easy. If you are making the long walk-in this will indeed be a long and tiring day, however the Landrover track can be covered very quickly on a bike as far as Geldie Lodge and this will shorten the day considerably.
From the large car park at Linn of Dee (you should not park at the bend just above the bridge) follow the track along the River Dee to the White Bridge (which is actually red). Cross this bridge and follow the Geldie Burn all the way to the ruins of Geldie Lodge. The track is a bit rough in places but is easily negotiable by mountain bike. Near the lodge there are three rivers to cross at fords: at the first, the Allt Dhaidh Mor, the ford is too deep for a bike but there is a good crossing point just a little downstream. At the second, the Geldie Burn, the ford is again quite deep but there is a crossing point just upstream. The third is crossed more easily. Bikes should be left at Geldie Lodge but a good footpath, recently reconstructed, continues from here around the foot of Scarsoch Bheag. From the end of this path a less obvious path continues across the Allt a’ Chaorainn and then through peat bogs to the eastern flanks of Carn an Fhidhleir. The trouble with this path is that it leads you to the steepest part of the hill. It can be climbed without too much difficulty to emerge just to the south of the stone-capped summit, but some people might prefer a slightly wetter crossing of the peat bogs further north to make the ascent by the north ridge. Either way brings you to the small summit cairn of Carn an Fhidhleir at 90467 84170, with its airy views across the Cairngorm hills (2hrs 30mins from Geldie Lodge).
An Sgarsoch from the southeast end of Carn an Fhidhleir
Head down the broad southeast ridge to the outlier at Point 906. You don’t need to climb this, but traverse around it and then descend grass slopes quite steeply to the peaty col. The worst of the peat hags can be bypassed to the left (north), but they are not as bad as they look from above. From the col climb steadily up the west ridge of An Sgarsoch to its throne-like cairn at 93335 83659 (4hrs from Geldie Lodge).
As you start the descent down the north-northwest ridge the mountain’s name seems suddenly appropriate; however, the stony summit is soon left behind for grass and heather. Pass to the west of Scarsoch Bheag to regain the footpath back to Geldie Lodge.
ROUTE 8
Carn Bhac (946m), Beinn Iutharn Mhor (1045m)
Pronunciation: Karn Vack; Bine Yoo-ern Voar
Translation: Peat Bank; Big Sharp-edged Hill
Start | along private track that starts opposite houses |
Distance | 33km (16km from Altanour Lodge) |
Total Ascent | 1050m |
Grade | see the general introduction to the Cairngorms (above) |
Time | 9hrs 15mins (about 1hr 45mins less if using a bike to Altanour Lodge) |
Maps | OS sheet 43; Explorer map 387; Area Map 6 |
Access | National Trust for Scotland, Mar Lodge Estate, tel: 013397 41368; Hillphone: 01796 481731 |
Parking | parking area at start of private road, Inverey |
Accommodation | Hostel - YHA Braemar; independent Spittal of Glenshee; B&B/hotel - Braemar; Camping - Braemar |
These hills are set in remote wilderness country and give all the appearance of being seldom visited. The Landrover track along Glen Ey allows a bike to be taken as far as the atmospheric ruins of Altanour Lodge, which greatly shortens the day; but even so this is rough walking country, largely lacking in paths, and it should not be underestimated, especially in poor weather.
From Altanour Lodge a very rough Landrover track continues up the hillside for about 2km, and this can be followed to its end on