Sierra, whose highest peaks bound the San Joaquin River. Gaze around you at this great river’s watershed. In the north, the serrated Minarets of the Ritter Range rim North Fork San Joaquin River, while Middle Fork San Joaquin wraps east below Mammoth Crest, and South Fork San Joaquin drains the distant, barren, granite peaks visible along the east-southeast skyline. From here, the San Joaquin continues to flow west to the trough of the Central Valley, where it joins California’s other great rivers and is either diverted for agriculture, power, and people, or follows its historical route north to the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta and then out through San Francisco Bay.
Retrace your steps down the spur trail to the junction and turn right (west) along Kaiser Ridge. Immediately below and north of the sheer granite ledge is Bonnie Lake, while the small twin disks of Bobby Lake lie northward nearly 1000 feet below.
Jewel Lake (larger) and Campfire Lake (smaller) lie nearly 400 feet below Kaiser Ridge.
Continuing, the trail traverses west through moonscape terrain devoid of obvious plant life except the occasional gnarled whitebark pine. Diminutive and barren Line Creek Lake is nestled along the exposed southern slopes. The trail descends slowly along Kaiser Ridge, offering expansive views north that include Balloon Dome—a prominent, granite knob jutting nearly 3000 feet above the banks of the San Joaquin River, which carves its way through Ansel Adams Wilderness.
Initially heading west, the trail gently leads downslope along the exposed, sun-drenched ridge and bends south-southeast to meet a junction 3 miles from the summit (8780´). Curve west across the headwaters of Line Creek, and, in 0.9 mile, reach a junction with the Nellie Lake Trail (8430´).
Turn right (west) onto the Nellie Lake Trail; Nellie Lake is the only site for established camps along the entire 21-mile loop. The path initially climbs 500 feet, crossing upper Home Camp Creek in 0.4 mile. It then skirts the northern flanks of Peak 9198 and drops the remaining half mile into the Nellie Lake basin. To find the best campsites, from Nellie Lake’s east shore (8900´; 11S 300888 4128413), follow a use trail right 200 feet across the inlet, through a shoreline forest of mature lodgepole, red fir, and the occasional western white pine and droopy-topped mountain hemlock.
Nellie Lake is the only site for established camps along this loop.
DAY 2 (Nellie Lake to Deer Creek Trailhead, 10 miles): From Nellie Lake, retrace your steps eastward to the Kaiser Loop Trail. Turn right (south) to descend under dense stands of red fir and lodgepole. The trail briefly parallels Home Camp Creek’s western branch before veering southeast below Peak 8403.
Continuing, the trail descends a viewless stretch into the Billy Creek drainage and reaches a junction where an eastbound trail joins the Kaiser Loop Trail (7270´).
SHUTTLE ALTERNATIVE
If you have two cars, a possible alternative to the 21-mile loop trek is to leave one car at the Deer Creek Trailhead and the other at the Upper Billy Creek Trailhead, 150 feet south of the junction with the eastbound trail and the Kaiser Loop Trail (7230´; 11S 302413 4124099). In doing so, it will bypass the next 4.5 miles, turning this loop into a 16.5-mile shuttle.
Turn left and head east along the Kaiser Loop Trail, traversing the densely forested slopes above Huntington Lake. Look for the red cones of snow plant, a saprophyte that obtains its nutrients from forest litter instead of through photosynthesis; it protrudes from the dense layer of downed debris on the forest floor. Farther east, the forest changes from dark, shady fir stands to more open Jeffrey pine stands that allow views southward across Huntington Lake and into Dinkey Lakes Wilderness.
The route undulates across the lush, steep canyon of Line Creek (7630´) and then, in 1.4 more miles, across Bear Creek (7300´), to arrive in another 0.8 mile at the Deer Creek Trailhead.
Florence Lake Trailhead 7360’; 11S 324899 4127475
Information and Permits: This trailhead is in Sierra National Forest: 1600 Tollhouse Road, Clovis, CA 93611, 559-297-0706, www.fs.fed.us/r5/sierra/. Permits are required for overnight stays, and quotas apply; reserved permits and on-demand permits are available.
Driving Directions: From Fresno, take State Hwy. 168 northeast for 42 winding, slow miles toward its end at a T junction on the east shore of Huntington Lake at the community of Lakeshore. Just before reaching Lakeshore, turn right onto the Kaiser Pass Road at the Eastwood Forest Service Center. The road quickly becomes very steep, narrow, and bumpy before Kaiser Pass and is even worse beyond the pass. Blind curves and reckless drivers are problems on this stretch. Allow time to drive very slowly (about 10 mph). As the road descends north and then east from the pass, find seasonally open High Sierra Ranger Station, where you can get on-demand permits. One mile beyond is the Lake Edison/Florence Lake Y junction. Turn right (east) on the Florence Lake Road for another 6 miles to the overnight parking lot. Beyond the far end of the lot, look leftward to the store and water taxi or rightward to the trailhead.
14 Martha Lake
Trip Data: 11S 345061 4106896; 38/46 miles; 6/1 days
Topos: Florence Lake, Ward Mountain, Blackcap Mountain, Mt. Henry, Mt. Goddard
Highlights: Beyond Muir Trail Ranch, this trip visits remote backcountry in the northwestern corner of Kings Canyon National Park. The scenery along South Fork San Joaquin River is stunning, with a parade of thrilling cataracts, cascades, and waterfalls visible from the trail. The long journey up the river culminates in a splendid crescendo at Martha Lake, a large alpine lake cradled in a rocky cirque basin nearly surrounded by craggy peaks and ridges. Along the way, sore backpackers can soak their weary bones in the soothing waters of Blayney Hot Springs.
HEADS UP! You can save a total of 8 miles of uninspiring hiking along the shore of Florence Lake with arrangements for a water-taxi ride across the lake. The different distances shown above and in the Day headers below reflect this (with water taxi/without).
WATER TAXI
Rather than backpack the first 4 miles, you could purchase a ticket at the store and take advantage of the ferry ride across Florence Lake. From 8:30 A.M. to 5 P.M., the ferry makes a minimum of five scheduled trips (more on weekends) across the lake and back. From the ferry dock at the far end of the lake, climb uphill over barren granite slopes for a half mile to the junction with the trail around Florence Lake. For your return, there’s a radiophone near the dock, from which you can call the store for your ride back.
DAY 1 (Florence Lake Trailhead to PCT/JMT Junction, 5.5/9.5 miles): If you’ve elected not to take the ferry, follow the paved road through the picnic area, down to the lake, and along the west shore to the beginning of single-track trail. Enter John Muir Wilderness and proceed generally south across gently rolling terrain beneath mixed forest for 2 miles to a junction with the Burnt Corral Meadows Trail. Continue ahead (southeast) at the junction, traveling above the southwest arm of the lake for another mile to
