Now the upper part of Goddard Canyon spreads out in subalpine splendor on an ascent of lush meadowlands, unbroken except for an occasional stunted pine or small clump of willows. Pockets of lupine and heather accent the green meadow as you gaze south and southeastward toward the mighty hulks of Mt. Goddard and Mt. Reinstein. Eventually, the path grows indistinct, but the route upstream along the South Fork is obvious on the way to its birthplace beneath the LeConte and Goddard divides. Flowers cover the slopes, including daisy, shooting star, and paintbrush.
After crossing the outlet stream from Lake Confusion, which is high above, begin a moderately steep, cross-country ascent over grassy benches and granite slabs to the lip of the basin holding Martha Lake. From there, a short, easy stroll leads to the west shore of the austere, rock-bound lake (11,004´; 11S 345061 4106896).
AT MARTHA LAKE
A smattering of small pocket meadows almost soften the predominantly barren, rocky shoreline of the lake. Situated above timberline near the convergence of three divides—Goddard, LeConte, and White—the lake is located in a truly alpine environment. The dark, rugged flanks of Mt. Goddard (13,368´) tower 2500 feet over the northeast shore, while Mt. Reinstein (12,604´) provides a fine backdrop to the south. Although developed campsites are virtually nonexistent, resourceful backpackers will be able to find sandy spots suitable for pitching a tent in various locations around the shoreline. Anglers can ply the waters in search of rainbow and golden trout. For cross-country enthusiasts, Martha Lake is also the western gateway into some of the most coveted off-trail terrain in the High Sierra: Directly east lies the mysterious realm of Ionian Basin, a trip through which is considered a Sierra classic. Mountaineers may want to tackle the Class 2–3 route up the southeast ridge of Mt. Goddard.
DAYS 4–6 (Martha Lake to Florence Lake Trailhead, 19/23 miles): Retrace your steps to the trailhead.
15 Red Mountain Basin
Trip Data: 11S 370824 1184859; 43.5/51.5 miles; 6/1 days
Topos: Florence Lake, Ward Mountain, Blackcap Mountain, Mt. Henry, Mt. Goddard
Highlights: Red Mountain Basin offers backpackers the type of scenery for which the High Sierra is famous: Alpine peaks, glacier-scoured terrain, and sparkling lakes highlight this rugged area on the west side of the LeConte Divide. A bounty of picturesque lakes—some near the trail and others a short, easy cross-country jaunt away—make excellent base camps for the exploration of the extensive basin. Travelers can expect to find solitude on this multilayer journey along the lightly used trails necessary to reach Red Mountain Basin.
HEADS UP! You can save 4 miles of uninspiring hiking along the shore of Florence Lake by arranging for a ferry ride across the lake.
DAY 1 (Florence Lake Trailhead to PCT/JMT Junction, 5.5 miles): (Recap Trip 14, Day 1.) Follow the trail 4 miles generally southward around Florence Lake, or take the ferry to the dock on the far side and take the ferry dock lateral east to meet the Florence Lake Trail. From this junction, go ahead (east) over granite slabs and up dry gullies on a combination of single-track trail and jeep road around Double Meadow and across Alder Creek to a junction with a lateral that accesses campsites at Lower Blayney Camp. Follow a forested path southeastward around Blayney Meadows and continue across the private property of Muir Trail Ranch. In the midst of the ranch property, reach a crudely signed junction and follow single-track trail southeastward across Sallie Keyes and Senger creeks, past the ranch boundary, and to a junction with a lateral to Blayney Hot Springs and Muir Trail Ranch. To visit the hot springs, follow the directions in the sidebar, “Blayney Hot Springs,”.
To stay or get back on the main trail, from the junction, head southeast on a gradual climb through light forest to a junction with a lateral trail north and steeply uphill to the PCT/JMT much farther north than you want to go. Don’t take the lateral; go ahead here (southeast), upstream along the river, to campsites on a forested bench just before a junction with the PCT/JMT (8025´; 11S 334845 4121555).
DAY 2 (PCT/JMT Junction to Goddard Canyon Trail Junction, 5.75 miles): (Recap Trip 14, Day 2.) Follow the southeast-trending JMT along South Fork San Joaquin River to the junction of the Piute Pass Trail, cross a bridge over the river, and enter Kings Canyon National Park (campsites). Go ahead (briefly east and then southeast) and continue upstream around John Muir Rock to Aspen Meadow (campsites) and across another bridge over the river (campsites). Follow the south bank upstream past additional campsites to a junction of the PCT/JMT and the Goddard Canyon Trail. Good campsites can be found near the junction along either trail.
DAY 3 (Goddard Canyon Trail Junction to Disappointment Lake, 10.5 miles): Return to the Goddard Canyon Trail and turn south. Climb moderately through Franklin Meadow into a narrowing section of the canyon. Near the confluence with North Goddard Creek, the canyon widens and the grade eases as the trail passes through flower-filled meadowlands. Make a short, moderate climb to an unsigned junction with the Hell for Sure Pass Trail, 5 miles from the JMT junction (campsites).
Turn right (west) at the junction and begin a 4-mile jaunt toward Hell for Sure Pass. After a half mile, switchbacking climb, the trail follows a gentle 2-mile traverse that heads northwest across the west wall of Goddard Canyon. Near the end of the traverse, you hop across a creek draining the slopes below the pass. A short distance beyond this initial crossing, begin an 1150-foot climb that generally follows the north side of creek’s drainage on the way to Hell for Sure Pass (11,297´; 11S 370845 1184746).
The views of Goddard Canyon have been stunning since you left the Goddard Canyon Trail, but they reach a climax at the pass, where views open up to the west over Red Mountain Basin. While the route from Goddard Canyon to Hell for Sure Pass has consumed 4 miles of hiking, the trail down into Red Mountain Basin plunges rapidly to Hell for Sure Lake, tightly winding 500 feet down a steep gully to the north shore of the 10,782-foot lake. Tucked into a stunning cirque immediately below LeConte Divide, the lake is surrounded by polished granite slabs that sparkle in the sunlight of a typically clear Sierra sky. Tiny pockets of meadow make feeble attempts to break up the otherwise rocky slopes of the basin. A few campsites are scattered around the north shore, and fishing is reported to be good for medium-size brook trout.
From Hell for Sure Lake, descend a hillside of granite slabs, pass by some small tarns, and step over a sparkling stream on the way to an unmarked lateral heading south that leads shortly to Disappointment Lake (10342´; 11S 370824 1184859). Backdropped by Mt. Hutton and the craggy LeConte Divide, the lake is as attractive as any in the High Sierra, with alternating sections of meadow and sandy beach ringing the north shore and rolling granite slabs along the south shore. Fine campsites with grand views of the surrounding terrain will reward tired backpackers. A healthy population of brook trout should satisfy anglers.
EXPLORING RED MOUNTAIN BASIN
Red Mountain Basin offers many alternatives for spending extra days exploring the region. Several lakes are easily accessible by connecting trails, and many other lakes can be visited via easy cross-country routes. Due to the lengthy approaches necessary to reach the basin, you’re unlikely to encounter many other backpackers. For peakbaggers, Red Mountain is a straightforward Class 1 climb from Hell for Sure Pass.
DAYS
