Sierra South. Mike White

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Sierra South - Mike White

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with a lateral to the Burnt Corral Meadow Trail. Go ahead (southeast) here.

      From there, head downhill to a bridge over a stream. A short stroll leads to another bridge, this one spanning South Fork San Joaquin River at 3.5 miles from the trailhead. Lodgepole-shaded campsites are spread along both banks of the river and a pit toilet is up the north hillside. From the bridge, head upstream and briefly follow the trail along the river until a moderate, half-mile climb over granite slabs leads to the ferry dock lateral.

      JEEP ROAD

      Keen eyes will spy a primitive jeep road beyond the southeast end of the lake. Muir Trail Ranch, 2.5 miles upstream, uses an old Army personnel carrier to transport guests along this road, which parallels and occasionally coincides with the route of the hiking trail. Such activity would seem incompatible with the idea of wilderness, but the family-owned operation has been in business for more than 50 years and was grandfathered into the 1964 Wilderness Act.

      From the ferry junction, turn right (east) and climb over granite slabs and up dry gullies for a mile to the edge of pastoral Double Meadow. There is an ancient, fallen Jeffrey pine next to the trail here, and a cross-section of the tree is labeled with a chronology of human events. After skirting the meadow, the trail crosses a seasonal stream lined with grasses and wildflowers and then makes a gradual descent to a crossing of Alder Creek, where sheltered campsites are found on the far bank. A short distance past the creek is a lateral to better campsites near the river at Lower Blayney Campground. Past this junction, the broad expanse of Blayney Meadows momentarily springs into view, but the path quickly veers away in favor of a forested route that bypasses the meadows.

      About 2.5 miles from the ferry dock, you pass through a gate at the fenced boundary of privately owned Muir Trail Ranch. The route across the ranch property may be difficult to distinguish amid a maze of dusty stock trails and the churned-up jeep road. Farther down the road, pay close attention to makeshift signs that direct you away from the road and onto single-track trail to the left. Proceed southeastward through open terrain and light forest on gently graded trail to crossings of Sallie Keyes and Senger creeks. A moderate climb of a hillside, followed by a lightly forested traverse, leads to a chain gate.

      MUIR TRAIL RANCH

      Although the presence of a resort seems inconsistent with a designated wilderness area, Muir Trail Ranch is hiker-friendly. For a small fee, packages can be held at the ranch for John Muir and Pacific Crest through-hikers. On the rare occasion when the ranch is not completely booked, usually only in early June, backpackers can purchase an overnight stay complete with three meals. Unfortunately, single meals are not available to non-guests. For more information, check out the ranch’s website at www.muirtrailranch.com.

      Beyond the gate, you continue across an open hillside in cadence to the rhythmic sound of a Pelton wheel that generates electricity for the ranch below. Reach an open knoll and then drop to a signed junction of a lateral accessing the ranch and Blayney Hot Springs.

      To visit the hot springs, turn right (south) and proceed a mere 50 feet, where the trail divides again—follow the path on the left marked HOT SPRINGS and pass overused campsites to the north bank of South Fork San Joaquin River. Ford the broad stretch of the river (difficult in early season) and reach more overused campsites on the far bank. Beyond the campsites, a use trail crosses Shooting Star Meadow to access the public pool at Blayney Hot Springs. Please enter and exit carefully, as the muddy pool is very susceptible to erosion.

      Just beyond a patch of willows is “Warm Lake,” a magical little gem of a swimming hole that is the result of an unlikely combination of beaver dams, moraines, and springs having come together far below the usual elevations common for Sierra lakes. This area is very fragile, so please minimize your impact by being a good steward of this healing place.

      Return to the junction and head southeast on gradually rising trail through light forest to a well-signed junction with a steep lateral to the PCT/JMT climbing northbound toward Selden Pass. Go ahead (southeast) and upstream as the main trail continues to parallel the river through a scattered forest of aspens, lodgepole pines, and Jeffrey pines. Pass by a stagnant pond and reach an extensive camping area that occupies a forested bench above the river, 5.5 miles from the ferry dock, just prior to a junction with the John Muir Trail (8025´; 11S 334845, 4121555).

      Hike upstream on a gradual, exposed climb around John Muir Rock and then draw nearer the river as it flows through a narrow channel of dark rock. About 1.5 miles from the Piute Pass Trail junction, enter the cool forested glade of aspens and pines misnamed Aspen Meadow. While there is no semblance of a meadow here, but there are a few sheltered campsites.

      Leave Aspen Meadow behind and continue to follow the river upstream on a gradual, mile-long climb of a narrow and exposed section of the canyon. Cross a steel bridge over the river to a small, forested flat, where a use trail leads shortly downstream to campsites. Now on the south side of the river, pass through a gate near more campsites, and walk through wildflower gardens to ford a vigorous stream draining several tarns below LeConte Divide. Reach campsites shaded by a mixed forest of aspens, lodgepole pines, and junipers near the signed junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail (10,100´; 11S 340681, 4117756).

      From the junction, head either right (south) a short distance up the Goddard Canyon Trail, or left (briefly east, then north) across the river on the JMT’s wooden bridge to fine campsites within sound of the soothing South Fork San Joaquin.

      DAY 3 (Goddard Canyon Trail Junction to Martha Lake, 7.75 miles): If necessary, return to the junction and take the Goddard Canyon Trail southward. Climb moderately through a light forest of lodgepole pines a half mile to Franklin Meadow, where tall aspens dot a picturesque, wildflower-laden grassland bisected by gurgling rivulets. A couple of primitive campsites are near the south end of the meadow just above the river.

      Follow the trail away from the meadow and the river for a while on a gradual-to-moderate climb through the trees. Soon, the narrowing walls of the canyon force the path up the hillside and along an ascending traverse above the river. Pass more campsites on a narrow bench overlooking the river on the way to a lush hillside well watered by a series of rivulets and carpeted with willows, aspens, and wildflowers, including paintbrush, clover, coneflower, columbine, and heather. Visible across this verdant meadowland is Pig Chute, where a seasonal stream pours down a narrow, rocky cleft beside a dark, knife-edged protrusion of rock. Farther up the trail, a spectacular waterfall spills into an emerald pool.

      For a while, the trail heads upstream with spectacular views across Goddard Canyon of the cascading river plunging down a narrow, deep, rocky cleft. Along the way, pass two more waterfalls as scenic as any to be found in the High Sierra and cross several flower-lined streams spilling across the trail.

      Near the confluence with North Goddard Creek, the canyon widens, allowing the river to slow down and broaden. Stroll through meadowlands for a fine view of both river canyons separated by a low rock dome. A short, moderate climb leads to an unsigned junction with the Hell-for-Sure Pass Trail, 5 miles from the JMT junction. A few primitive campsites shaded by a grove of trees can be found a short distance beyond the junction, near a creek crossing. Go ahead (south-southeast)

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