south of Vandoncourt the striking rock arch of Pont Sarrazin (Section 8) is the first unmistakable sign that the path has reached the limestone that forms the basis of the scenery for the rest of the route to Lake Geneva. The limestone of the Jura creates a landscape distinct from the Vosges. Rivers have cut deep gorges and often flow underground through caverns. One of the highlights of the GR5 is where it follows the River Doubs as it flows through a series of wooded gorges along the Swiss frontier (Section 9).
Dames des Entreportes (Section 10)
The GR5 then climbs onto the high plateau of the Jura where the limestone extends to great depths. Folded by earth movements and split by faults, the whole region was scoured by ice so that the resulting plateau is far from flat, instead forming an undulating landscape at about 1000m, now largely covered by forest. Elevated lookout points such as Roche Bernard give expansive views.
The path leaves the plateau soon after crossing into Switzerland and descends quite steeply, the final few kilometres crossing the belt of flat fields surrounding Lake Geneva.
History
In 58BC Caesar led the Romans into battle just south of the Vosges and the Romans were to remain there for a further four centuries. Many towns can date their origins to this period; Nyon on Lake Geneva was founded by the Romans. Roads were built through some of the Vosges passes (Saverne and Donon) and a stretch of the GR5 dropping towards Nyon (Section 11) follows an old cobbled track that dates back to this time.
The eighth and ninth centuries saw the spread of Christianity and the founding of several abbeys, including that at Wissembourg.
The GR53 and GR5 through the Vosges lie for the most part in the region of Alsace, but south from the Ballon d’Alsace to the Swiss border the route runs through Franche-Comté. These regions have very different histories. Alsace, in particular, has a heritage that is part French and part German, and an overview of the various border changes helps to put the region’s identity into perspective.
Roman rule collapsed early in the fifth century and Alsace was invaded by the Alemanni from across the Rhine. The Alemannic language of these invaders was related to German, differing substantially from the language of the Franks, and although French is now spoken throughout Alsace, local dialects derived from this early Alemannic still thrive.
After the death of Charlemagne in 814 the land to the west became France and was separated from the German-speaking lands further east. In 870 it was agreed by treaty that Alsace should be joined to the German states to the east, and Alsace was to remain a part of this German confederation until 1648.
The region initially prospered, but by the 13th century central control was lacking and local landowners took advantage of the situation, vying with each other for power. Alsace became a mosaic of tiny ‘states’, and a consequence of this can be seen in the Northern Vosges today, where 30 castles, most of them now ruined, lie within the boundaries of the regional park: the GR53 passes a good selection of these strongholds.
Freundstein Castle (Section 6)
By the end of the 16th century prosperity was returning, with silver mines and wine production generating wealth in the region, but the outbreak of the Thirty Years War in 1618 brought a period of turmoil. The treaty that finally ended this conflict transferred significant parts of Alsace to France, and full integration followed, so that by 1697 the Rhine was declared to be the official French border.
Alsace was to remain a part of France until the Franco-Prussian War of 1870–71, when invading Prussian forces won a major battle near Wissembourg. Alsace was ceded to the German Reich and the ridge of the Vosges became the new Franco–German border. Old frontier stones from this era run alongside the GR5 (Section 5).
Early in World War I, major battles were fought in the Vosges at Le Linge and Hartmannswillerkopf, and trenches have survived to the present day. The GR5 passes close to these old front lines on two occasions (Sections 5 and 6).
World War I lines at Hartmannswillerkopf (Section 6)
German defeat saw Alsace pass back into French hands in 1918, but it was an uneasy peace. After the invasion in 1940, the Germans considered Alsace to be a true part of the Reich, not part of occupied France; many of the men were conscripted into the German army and sent to the Russian front. Alsace was retaken by the French during the winter of 1944–45.
To the south of Alsace the region that now forms Franche-Comté also has its origins in the same confederation of Germanic states, although this Germanic heritage is less visible in Franche-Comté today. As early as 1295 the region passed into French control, and there followed a period as part of an autonomous Burgundy.
From 1493 to 1635 Franche-Comté was a Spanish possession, although Spain had little effect on day-to-day life, and during this period France still laid claim to the region, making several attempts to annex it. French control was finally established in 1678 and Franche-Comté has remained a part of France ever since. While the lower lands around Belfort and Montbéliard have attracted industry and a dense population, the more exposed uplands of the Jura have always been sparsely populated.
Wildlife
The wide variety of habitats in the Vosges and Jura supports a wealth of wildlife. Although largely wooded, the region also has open highlands, gorges, river flood plains, lakes and wetlands, giving scope for many different plants and animals to thrive.
In the fields and vineyards at the edge of the plain, storks, the emblem of Alsace and once a common sight, had become alarmingly scarce, but now, thanks to captive-breeding programmes and other conservation efforts, the decline has been reversed. There is a good chance of seeing these elegant birds close to the GR5, particularly in the region of Ribeauvillé (Sections 4 and 5).
Storks on an Alsace rooftop
Rising into the hills, the extensive woodland cover provides shelter throughout for wild boar, with especially high numbers in the undisturbed corners of the Northern Vosges. Often the only sign that boar are nearby is the sound of something large but unseen crashing headlong through the undergrowth. Roe and red deer are to be found in the woods, but they slip away without creating such a commotion. The trees also provide shelter for red squirrel, often a much darker form than found in the UK. Dormice, beech marten, pine marten and wild cat are all present, but you need to be lucky to see them. The same goes for lynx, which were reintroduced into parts of Switzerland and spread to France from there, but numbers are low.
Wild boar are common in the Northern Vosges
The woodlands attract a variety of bird species, although it is not always easy to get good views among the trees. The black woodpecker, largest of the European woodpeckers, advertises its presence by characteristically loud drumming, or you may hear the raucous call of nutcrackers, large brown crows that inhabit conifer woods. The capercaillie, largest of the European grouse, breeds in the forests of the Vosges and Jura, but this shy bird is rarely seen, despite its size. One bird that may attract attention is the golden oriole. Its loud flutey call carries through the forest, with just a glimpse now and again of a yellow-and-black bird flying from tree to tree. The song of the nightingale
