in early summer, usually in lowland scrub. The woods also play host to Tengmalm’s owl, goshawk and firecrest.
The rich growth of small plants can be very attractive in areas of more open woodland, with periwinkle and aconites, and sweetly scented lily-of-the-valley and daphne. Bilberries too are common, and the annual harvest of berries is used to make tarte aux myrtilles, a popular local dish in the Vosges.
The edge of the forests up around the tree-line is favoured grazing for chamois. These small, goat-like animals with black-and-white-striped faces are native to various parts of Europe and were introduced to the Vosges in 1956. Since then they have maintained good numbers in the region of the Ballons. They tend to seek cover during the day, so early morning and late evening are the best times to see them, with the eastern slope below Le Hohneck a good place to go looking (Section 5). Chamois are also found quite widely in the Jura, particularly near Le Mont d’Or (Section 11) and on the slopes around Joux Castle (Section 10).
Out of the forests, in the upland regions, there is a chance to see larger birds of prey, including golden eagle, buzzard and kite, and the sandstone outcrops of the Vosges and the rocky cliffs of the Jura provide excellent habitat for the peregrine falcon.
On open pastures the yellow gentian is common. This broad-leaved, yellow-flowered plant, often several feet high, is found throughout the region, and extracts made from the roots are still commercially important for making liqueurs and herbal medicines (Section 11). The yellow daisy-like flowers of arnica are also collected for medicines, and it is common in some areas of the Vosges. Above the tree-line a range of Alpine plants can be found, with pasque flower, wild narcissus, martagon lily and globe flower giving a delightful splash of colour in season.
Gentians on Le Mont d’Or (Section 11)
When to visit
The altitude and inland position of the region result in summers that are hot, but not generally too hot for walking, and winters with snow cover typically from about November to the beginning of April. Unless you are equipped for winter walking it is better not to attempt the higher sections during this time. During the main holiday period, from mid-July to the end of August, popular centres can be busy. A dry spell in summer may be followed by a rainier autumn, but the glowing colours of the turning leaves and the bright, crisp, frosty mornings can make autumn a delightful time to visit.
Access
The nearest major airports are Strasbourg, Geneva and Basel, but it is also worth checking flights to nearby German destinations. TGV express trains from Paris serve Strasbourg, Mulhouse, Basel, Belfort and Geneva. By road, Strasbourg is about 650km (400 miles) from Calais.
Taking the section start points in order, Wissembourg, Niederbronn-les-Bains, Saverne and Schirmeck are all accessible using French railways (SNCF). Ribeauvillé no longer has a rail station, but is easily accessed by getting the train to Sélestat, then using the regular buses which link to the train service. For Mittlach, head for the rail station at nearby Metzeral, then complete the journey on foot (3km), or use the infrequent local buses.
Thann and Héricourt (for Brévilliers) are both served by rail stations, but further south, as the route crosses the Jura, access becomes more tricky. St-Hippolyte can be accessed from the rail station at Montbéliard, using Ligne B of the Mobidoubs local bus service. Villers-le-Lac is no longer served by a bus service, and the nearest train stations are Morteau in France, 7km away, or Le Locle in Switzerland (8km). The road from Morteau to Villers-le-Lac can be busy, and a taxi might now be the best way to access the town. Further south, Les Hôpitaux-Neufs has no rail station, but currently has a connecting bus (run by SNCF) linking the station at Frasne with the town. The final section end at Nyon is on the Swiss rail network.
Local transport
Local bus services are sparse, and often infrequent where they do exist. The sections of the route through the Jura are particularly poorly served, so if possible, it is better to walk sections 9 and 10 together. If doing part of the route, starting/finishing from a point on the rail network eases the arrangements.
Accommodation
The area has a wide range of hotels, although those in mountain resorts may be geared more towards the skiing season. Chambres d’hôtes are rooms in private houses, similar to bed and breakfast. When planning a trip it is a good idea to check the regional and local tourist office websites (Appendix D). Local tourist offices can answer questions about accommodation in their own area and can generally make bookings.
Gîtes d’étapes, which provide inexpensive accommodation for walkers, are common along the route. Most of them simply provide dormitories, although some offer almost hotel-like facilities, with meals and private rooms. (Note that a gîte d’étape is not the same as a gîte rural, which is not usually available for single nights.) There are also occasional hostels, either Youth Hostels or privately run.
Refuges (mountain huts) also provide inexpensive dormitory accommodation, but making use of them is not always straightforward as many have very restricted opening periods. Where such refuges are run by walking and skiing clubs they are often open continuously only during the high season, or may be available for group bookings only or reserved for club members.
Finally, abris (shelters) may have little more than walls and a roof – useful for anyone caught out in bad weather. Note that the many fermes-auberges in the Vosges – farms offering simple meals based on local produce – do not usually offer accommodation.
Camping
Camping is popular in France and most campsites provide good facilities at a reasonable cost, but some are only open for a limited period. Comprehensive lists of campsites are available from tourist office websites. Wildcamping is not a right in France and different communes have different regulations. Outside restricted areas, discreetly pitching overnight may be possible, provided it is well away from roads and houses.
Food and drink
In Alsace the German style of cooking is seen in the popularity of pork, especially sausages, and dishes such as choucroute (based on sauerkraut). Kugelhopf is a distinctive ring-shaped cake, and tarte aux myrtilles is made with the bilberries common on the hillsides of the Vosges.
Tarte aux myrtilles
The Jura has been famous for smoked meats since Roman times. The local products to look out for are sausages and hams, trout from the Doubs, and snails. Both the Vosges and the Jura have fine local cheeses and wines – Alsace is well known for its white wines, and the yellow wine of the Jura is particularly unusual.
Not every village has a shop, so a little forward planning of food purchases is required in some places, and you may have to carry food for a day or two. Be aware that many shops close for an extended lunchtime, which can cause considerable delay, but many, particularly bakeries, are open early in the morning. When buying meals there is a wide choice, from village bars to restaurants. A set meal, usually of local produce, can be bought at one of the many fermes-auberges to be found in the Vosges.
A ferme-auberge in the Vosges
What to take
Although the route does not involve any scrambling or climbing, some sections are rough and exposed, so good footwear and waterproofs are essential, and a hat and sunscreen are wise precautions. The basic walking tools of maps and
