torch and water bottle are necessities.
For other packing requirements, much depends on accommodation and eating preferences. If using the many hotels and chambres d’hôtes along the route, little is required other than changes of clothing and personal items. If depending on gîtes d’étapes and hostels, add a sleeping bag. The cheapest and most flexible way of travelling is with a lightweight tent – even if you are not planning to camp every night, a tent gives an alternative if accommodation is a problem. A lightweight stove and utensils are worth considering.
Backpackers will be well aware that trips are all the more enjoyable if pack weight is kept down, so ruthlessly weed out any non-essentials at the packing stage. If camping, remember that many French campsites have laundry rooms, so there is no need to carry too many changes of clothes.
Maps
Relevant maps are listed at the beginning of each route section, and possible stockists are in Appendix D.
Four sheets of the IGN 1:100,000 (TOP100) series cover the route (Nos 112, 122, 137, 143). These maps are good for planning and in conjunction with this book can be used for route-finding, as GR paths are marked.
The IGN 1:75,000 (TOP75) maps are ideal for walkers, and cover the Vosges, but only part of the Jura, (Nos 012, 027, 028). The Club Vosgien has produced maps of the Vosges at 1:50,000, but other than these, IGN maps at 1:50,000 are not currently available for the area of the route. IGN 1:25,000 maps (TOP25) are available, these are very detailed and a large number would be needed to cover the whole route.
The maps in this guide are not meant to be sufficient for navigation – more detailed mapping information is recommended. The main place names and features on the sketch maps are shown in bold type in the route descriptions.
GR system and waymarking
The GR5 and GR53 are part of an excellent network of long distance footpaths in France, the Grandes Randonnées. Waymarking of GRs is generally with a standard system of marks. A red and white rectangle (white above red) confirms the route. A cross formed by a diagonal red line crossed out by a diagonal white line is used to indicate ‘incorrect route’. This system is used for the GR5 in the Jura, but the Vosges is an exception. Here, footpaths were waymarked before the nationwide system was developed, and the GR53 and the Vosges section of the GR5 are both waymarked with red rectangles.
Problems can arise where different routes intersect, for example, in the Jura, the GTJ (Grand Traversée du Jura) and the GR5 both use red and white waymarks. Waymarking is done by volunteers, and the standard is usually high. However, GR routes do change from time to time, either temporarily or permanently.
Once in Switzerland the waymarking changes to yellow diamonds. These apply to all footpaths, and this short section of the GR5 is not distinctly marked. The route is followed by looking out for the regular signboards with directions to particular places.
Doubs Gorge (Section 9)
Safety and health
UK citizens should currently obtain a European Health Insurance Card before leaving home; this entitles you to the same services as French citizens, although visits to doctors or hospitals are not completely free. In addition, purchasing suitable insurance is recommended, particularly for non-EU citizens. Another valuable source of advice and treatment of minor ailments is the pharmacie (chemist’s shop).
Vipers are present in the area so keep a lookout, especially when among vegetation. Unfriendly dogs might also be a problem, although we have never been troubled. In the unlikely event of snake or dog bites, seek medical advice. The walker should also be aware of the risk of contracting Lyme disease from tick bites. Current recommendations are to check for ticks at the end of the day, completely remove any that you find, and seek advice if inflammation or other symptoms develop.
Another possible hazard in France is hunting, and walkers should be aware of the possibility of shooting in the vicinity, particularly during the autumn season.
Your own first aid kit should provide treatment for foreseeable minor problems. In addition, a survival sack or lightweight tent could prove invaluable if injured, caught out by bad weather or benighted in the hills. The likelihood of weather problems can be reduced, but not eliminated, by checking the weather forecast (la méteo), which can be found in tourist offices or newspapers.
Over-enthusiasm at the planning stage can cause problems too. Experienced walkers will already know their own capabilities, but if you are new to long distance walking some trial days before setting off (with a full pack) might help. To enjoy the walk it is really important to keep your bag as light as possible. The first few days can be the hardest, so it is a good idea not to attempt too much at the start.
If the worst does happen, in France the emergency services can be contacted by phoning 15 (medical help), 17 (police), or 18 (fire brigade), or 112, the general (multilingual) European emergency number.
Enjoyment of the outdoors will always involve risk, and it is the responsibility of each walker to look after their own safety.
Language
Visitors do need some basic French, even if this is just provided by a phrase book. German is commonly understood in Alsace, where although the local people are fluent French speakers, many also speak Elsässisch, the Alsatian language.
Money
Cash-withdrawal facilities are more frequent in the larger towns. A walker on the Jura section of the GR5 will find it useful to have some Swiss francs as well as euros.
Telephones and internet
Mobile phone coverage is substantial but incomplete within the Vosges and Jura, and coverage maps can be found on the internet. Most public telephones require a credit/debit card or a pre-paid card. International dialling codes are 0044 (UK), 0033 (France), and 0041 (Switzerland).
Internet cafés are scarce, but many public libraries provide internet access, and wifi is available quite widely in cafés, railway stations and other public places.
Using this guide
We have divided the route into 11 sections of various lengths, and have tried to arrange section ends at places accessible by public transport. The outline at the beginning of each section gives an overview, with highlights of what you can expect to see and comments on walking conditions. If you are only planning to walk part of the route, these outlines may help you choose between sections. Some suggestions for where you might make overnight stops are included, although doubtless you will have your own accommodation preferences. Each section includes a sketch map and details of the relevant topographical map.
For practical planning of the walk a list of facilities available on the route can be found in Appendix C. This table lists possibilities for refreshment, or where to break your walk, and intervening distances. These possibilities are not exhaustive, but we have tried to include all the budget accommodation (campsites and gîtes) likely to be useful. We have also made a special effort to identify accommodation on the more isolated stretches of the route. Up-to-date information can be obtained from tourist offices and the internet, and we recommend that you use these sources to supplement this guide. Be aware that village shops may close, and restaurants and hotels cover a range of prices.
Contact information for accommodation can be found in Appendix E and tourist offices can be found in Appendix D. Hotel details are not given for places with their own tourist office (where there is usually a choice of hotels). In most cases a telephone
